Keep it standard are modify - Objective Data

[Catapult]

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... s%26sa%3DN

Keep it standard are modify - Objective Data

[riceburner]

Didn't read the whole thing, but did he add the K1200LT fuel regulator??

it adds 1/2 a bar of pressure - seen a GS with this mod (and RT cams/inlets with Remus exhaust) and it FLEW.

[boxermania]

Catapult

Mods lie with the character of the owner....in my case I like to experiment until I get to what I call my "hapiness point" I'm there with my bike

TBR can and cat eliminator
Techclusion R259
3 Degree advance
Did away with airbox and installed UNI pods and
Replaced the Std. 3 Bar Pressure regulator for the 3.5Bar from the K bike, as riceburner mentioned.

After a lot of testing with various set ups, seat of the pantsand dyno trips the best results, in my opinnion, for someone that might want to improve the running of his bike would be three items.

A can with the cat eliminator ($400 at the time), updating to the K1200 pressure regulator ($36) and the 3 Degree advance ($0).......more flow out of the cylinders and more scavenging to go with some additional fuel and spark........see the smile on my face?

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/23307615-M.jpg

[Panzerleder]

Interesting post, Boxermania. I'm looking to make these modifications to mine. A couple of questions, if you don't mind: what are the photos of in your post, and how do you go about advancing the timing on this bike? Also, do you have any experience with the Rhinewest chip? Appreciate any feedback.

[boxermania]

Panzerleder

The photos on my post show the location of the location of the standard fuel pressure regulator, if you see closely you can see the 3.0 Bar (!bar=!atm=14.7 psi g), right next to it is the one from the K1200 they are interchangeable and supplies 3.5 Bar or about 7 psi more of fuel pressure.

BTW......to get to that fuel pressure regulator requires big dissasembly, that was one f the reasons that i decided to run UNI filters (Individual filters). Ahhh, but I can get to the reulator in minutes......

I don't know hat isyour mechanical ability, the 3 Degree advance is not a major issue and its done under the belt cover at the front of the engine.

No, I haven't had any experience with the Rhinewest Chips. I'm fairly familiar with BMW injections and let me sufice to say that what we have in the R259 models is fairly elemental in control, basically there are not many parameters to adjust and obtain some sizable gains like in the more sophisticated car injections.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/17416639-M.jpg

[Lobo1625]

This is a tough topic. Up until a few weeks ago, I was preparing for a full port/polish for the heads, power commander and SJBMW airbox and cams. I've already got a Remus can and Y pipe, and I think a chip. (The bike doesn't pop and backfire as I'm told they do with a can an no chip) My heartbreak came recently when I went with a few friends down to a local Dyno. From what I've seen online from the link below and from SJBMW, a stock R1150R should put down somewhere in the 78hp range. My bike put down just over 74 The 1984 Goldwing I was there with put down 79! This was a bit of a let down as I expected a gain with the parts on it. The next week, the same group of friends and I went on a ~350 mile road trip and to my amazement I was up over 50mpg. We didnt ride easy by any means and this is 15mpg over what I get around the city. Boxer, do you know what your bike is actually making for power with the mods on it? I would love to get more performance out of my bike like Panzerleder too but so far, the mod's don't seem worth it. I love the mileage of the bike now, but don't want to try for more performance with little to no gain and a loss in mileage. I know that you can't have Mileage and Performance, but I'd hate to sacrifice both. This is just my personal experience. If a different combination of parts yields a proven gain, I'd certianly go with that!

[Panzerleder]

Well, it IS possible to have both great mileage and great performance. One of my bikes is a 90 Yamaha FJR1200. I had the cams degreed and also advanced the timing 3 degrees (a snap on that bike); installed a much higher capacity oil cooler, K&N filter and Supertrapp exhaust. I regularly get 50 MPG with that bike, sometimes even more ... and it runs like a scalded ape. I'm not looking for big horsepower numbers. After all, the boxer engine is an 80-year-old design and, in this bike, is very understressed. What I would like to get is more efficiency and smoothness with improved throttle response. The Techlusion R259 helped cure the lean surge ... but not completely. And I've been very unhappy with the mileage I've been getting so far (only about 25 - 30 MPG, mostly around town).

[boxermania]

Panzerleder

I think you answered the question yourself......there is a lot of design diference between an 80 year twin air cooled engine and a 10 year old high reving, water cooled multicylinder.

You would probably laugh if I tell you that my Suzuki Bandit with 118 HP at the rear wheel (from 98 stock) gets two miles per hour better than the Boxer.....engineering my friend is a great science, when used intelligently.

Yep, you could say that BMW and Motto Gucci are the European Harley's and the statement will brobably earn me my third annular orifice.

[boxermania]

Lobo 1625

I have talked and posted many times as to the mods on my bike......that's why my bike is diferent from anyones here and I call it "state of flux" because I'm always changing something.

Fact Boxers don't return a lot of HP with ecternal add ons.....you have to think out of the box and that will cost you plenty, also the cost no object mods will significantly affect the grunt down below.

My stock run netted 77 hp
The second run netted just under 80 hp with cat eliminator and oval can from TBR
The third run netted 84 hp with Techclusion R 259 at the factory recomended settings

I love my present set-up, that bike, with my heft on it gets up and goes but it does have plenty of black hole engineering.

The best set-up is the one I mention on this very forum, the third one down to be exact.

I truly believe that a good handling motorcycle with 85 hp to 90 hp at the rear wheel is all one needs for the riding conditions encountered in the USA. You can ride that bike at 9/10's and feel comfortable, in control of your environment, add more power and you are playing with things beyond your control and abilities.

[Panzerleder]

I'm still confused as to how the Techlusion might interact with the Rhinewest chip (which I am considering getting). Is it redundant? Would it tend to counteract the Techlusion in any way?

I certainly agree that 85 understressed horses running srong are more than enough for conditions in the US. The performance numbers on the stock R1150R are almost exactly the same as the ones on my last generation SS Camaro ... and that car can be scary fast.

That said, however, there is nothing quite like the adrenalin rush from a hard-hitting 4-cylinder motorcycle.

[boxermania]

Panzerleder

There is basically not much difference between the Rhinewest chip and the Techlusion.....the chip design was able to finagle the BMW chip map the Techlusion not having that option does it externally. There might be a bit of an advantage to the chip, if this was a sophisticated injection system, but it is not, as I have indicated before.

Since the fuel, the fuel pressure and the injector remain the same the only way you can alter the fuel flow into the engine is by anticipating the firing of the injector or delaying the closing of the same. This timing function is very small and limited in the less than microseconds.......

So in answer to your question, no I don't think they will buck each other, however the two together will not give you more than one alone.....

Now if you were to use either with more fuel pressure.....Ooops, I'm threading into dangerous ground.....you have your answer.

[Panzerleder]

Thanks much Boxermania. You've convinced me to look at advancing the timing and going with the K-bike fuel pressure regulator instead of a chip. You say the regulator is very difficult to get to. What's involved? Take off the tank and what else? Also, is advancing the timing a matter of guessing what 3 degrees amounts to with the aid of a timing light, or is there a more precise way? You obviously know your way around and I appreciate your help!

[boxermania]

Panzerleder......Being that I'm 7K miles from home with a laptop only as my most precious possesion I don't have much to offer by way of encouragement and or help.

If you have some mechanical inclination the 3 degree advance basically entails making a mark somewhere on the reluctor plate to the engine to establish a starting point, then losening the three bolts that hold the reluctor plate to the front of the engine an moving the reluctor plate counterclockwise as far as it will go, then bolting back down. Noemaly and depending on factory machining allowances that max you can get from this movement is about 3 degrees or a bit more but I always put a timing light to verify how much it was advanced.

Sometimes is more dificult to see the timing mark, and loose the stupid rubber plug than doing the whole job.

The fuel pressure regulator requires some serious dissasembly of the back portion of the bike. The back frame, where the seat mounts has to be pivoted forward to gain access to the airbox. The rear shock has to be taken out.......I did during the winter because I wanted to go over the bike with a fine tooth comb....if you really want to do it we need to talk some more. In the meantime I'll see if I can post a couple of pics from that adventure.

There is at least one person with a GS, in the Adv Rider group that has done it. I don't think that there is another person on an R1150R that frequents this forum that has made the modification.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/23307598-L.jpg
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/13242296-L.jpg

The top pic shows the fuel system, injectors, regulator and lines. On the second pic, look for the black cylinder right under the battery box, that's the fuel pressure regulator housing. Can you see the back frame up and out of the way? It's a major endeavor..........

[Panzerleder]

Wow! You weren't kidding. Thanks for the pics. How do you like the uni-filters, and where did you get them?

[boxermania]

Panzerleder

I like the UNI very much, they are like the K&N but made out of foam and less expensive. I'm not going to get on the debate if foam or paper filters are better......

You can check their site at xxx.unifilter.com. THey can be ordered through any bike shop.

[jb44]

Panzerleder,

Here's the info on setting the timing, courtesy of Poolside and the AdvRider Hall of Wisdom:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Oi ... 20Way.html

Al (Boxermania), I'm still pondering your email...think I even understand most of it.

...can't seem to find the photo of my R with the rear frame removed. Guess I missed an opportunity to replace the fuel pressure regulator.

jb

[Panzerleder]

Hey thanks a million JB! What a great resource! Great pictures and write-up too.