Questions for those experienced in buying aftermarket shocks

[hjsbmw]

I am thinking about getting aftermarket shocks, probably the Wilbers. The reason I am thinking about a shock replacement is because I have 24k on the stockers, and the front has felt somewhat instable when going over bumps while cornering since I got the bike. This is compared to other motorcycles I have had. I don't know if it is a characteristic of the telelever.

All my motorcycles had stock suspension, and I have never been known for fiddling too much with the adjustments they offered. My dilemma is that suspensions are like wine, to me anyways. I can tell if it's good, but I have no idea if a 1/4" longer spring would work better for me. You get the picture.

Wilbers are around $1400 for the front and back. If I spend this money I want it to be worth it. What questions did you answer for yourself before ordering shocks? What can I observe actively during my rides to get a better feel for how my ride would be improved? What can I try with the stock suspension to find out what I like and don't like?

[Jed]

In my experience the stock shocks provide a bad example of what the R1200R is capable of. Most of our riding experience is a function of the suspension. I put Ohlins on mine ($1500) and without any adjustment at all the bike felt completely different. Some how the roads all seemed softer with more gentle edges. The new shocks are sprung more heavily and damped more lightly so the ride is taught overall but less jarring (even the seat is less painful). The price of a real suspension is nothing when you consider the difference in how the bike will feel.

Good luck with your new ride. It will be money well spent even before you dial-in the new suspension.

The other thing that helped greatly with the ride was learning to keep pressure on the pegs so that my weight doesn't cause every minor road bump to drive the torture saddle into my sensitive parts.

[hjsbmw]

The new shocks are sprung more heavily and damped more lightly so the ride is taught overall but less jarring ...

I was under the impression the shocks get custom made, and I'd need to be able to tell them exactly what spring weight and length I require. I don't know that. If, however, that's not the case, then there is no problem with ordering.

[waynemathews]

The new shocks are sprung more heavily and damped more lightly so the ride is taught overall but less jarring ...

I was under the impression the stocks get custom made, and I'd need to be able to tell then exactly what spring weight and length I require. I don't know that. If, however, that's not the case, then there is no problem with ordering.

Wilbers, Ohlins, Hyperpro and Racetech shocks are all customized to the purchaser. When you order they will ask you about your riding weight with gear, if you use luggage and how much stuff you carry, your riding style (sport touring, commuting, local back roads, track, etc), and if you want to change your ride height. They will take care of selecting springs, spring rates, damping and length based on this information. Depending on which shocks you go with you may have to decide on options such as variable damping, remote reservoirs and hydraulic preload adjustment.

You should expect a smoother, more compliant ride with any of these aftermarket shocks.

[Jed]

The new shocks are sprung more heavily and damped more lightly so the ride is taught overall but less jarring ...

I was under the impression the stocks get custom made, and I'd need to be able to tell then exactly what spring weight and length I require. I don't know that. If, however, that's not the case, then there is no problem with ordering.

Aftermarket shocks can be customized but remember that, in our cases, most of the weight they carry is still the weight of the bike, additionally there is a lot of variance in capacity for any one spring weight. To describe this process as "custom made" is a bit too much marketing talk IMO. I don't know exactly how many different springs ohlin offers for these particular shocks but I'd be surprised if it was more than three different spring options (125>225, 200>300, 275>375 for example load ratings). Remember that any one spring weight has to be able to handle a range of weights (equal to a typical pillion + luggage, so 175 #'s?). The manufacturers assume a specific length per application so there are default values for any of these variables. I bought shocks that were length adjustable so that I could play a bit with the steering geometry.

Some sellers will say that the springs are custom selected / made for your weight and riding style - just remember that this language is from people that are saying that are trying to sell you something (and at a premium price). So don't be surprised if they overstate their case.

My comment about the new shocks being more heavily sprung and more lightly damped (tight but smooth) is in comparison to the stock shocks which I've heard described (and I agree) as too lightly sprung and too heavily damped (wallowing and harsh). Personally I don't think you can go wrong with any premium brand aftermarket shock compared to the stock shocks.

Warning: Keep your old shocks, as any shock will need to be rebuilt sometime after 24K miles or so. If you are a year-round rider, you may need to use your old shocks while the new ones are being rebuilt - unless you have another bike to use during the rebuild.

[ContraMoto]

Like Jed said -- don't overthink the "custom" thing. When I was in the world of GS riders, every single Ohlins GS shock set I saw for a rider 160-220 pounds was exactly the same specs. And every owner insists his shocks were hand-made in Sweden by a craftsman that knew every nuance of said owner's riding envelope. Phooey. If you're in that weight range and you're riding that bike, you get the standard shock spec off the shelf. Which is how it should be...

Only the biggest guys get different springs, and the valving to go with them.

I bought a used GS with Ohlins, and the preload would not back out far enough. With zero preload, the bike sat too high, without proper sag. I pulled the shock, took it down to a local speed shop, and they compressed the spring so I could turn the preload adjuster back one turn. Paid them $20 and I had a "custom" shock. NO...I merely tuned the shock I already had.

There is quite a wide range of adjustment in any given spring spec. So much so, that no two springs with the same spec are the same. Springs are low-tech piece of hardware and each and every one has to be dialed in (with preload) after it's on the actual bike. The dampening valving is precision stuff, but still has a HUGE range of adjustment.

The key to shocks is not buying the perfect shock...it's learning how to tune them after you buy them. IMO, it makes sense to either buy them from a specialist dealer who will install and tune them for you, or install them yourself and pay for two hours of an expert's time. A shock CANNOT be set up properly via a phone interview. It has to be done in person, on your actual bike.

[Shakey]

+1 on all the above comments. Pretty much any aftermarket unit will be better than the stock item. My VFR 800 had a Hyperpro unit on it. My first FJR had a second hand Ohlins and my lately departed FJR had a Wilbers unit. Not only is the Wilbers slightly cheaper than the Ohlins but IMHO its a much batter ride - think magic carpet!
I'm on the porky side so the spring fitted was for the range 110 - 160 kilos which then allowed the fitter to give me plenty of preload adjustment via the remote.

If I go for an upgrade on the R in the future then based on my experience it'll be Wilbers for me!

[hjsbmw]

Thank you for all the suggestions and ideas. They help!

The choice I do have to make is between manual adjusters and hydraulic for the rear. The front seems to be manual for Wilbers by default on the R1200R. Could someone who has the Wilbers tell me about the fitment? I am wondering if the hydraulic adjuster bolts to the same place as the OEM part and fits under the seat. Conversely, if I went manual, does the bike have the clearance needed to access the manual adjuster well? How is the accessibility for the front's adjuster?

[Dr. Strangelove]

Call Ted Porter
http://www.beemershop.com/

one stop for shocks and education and customer service

Got my Wilbers from them

John

[hjsbmw]

Call Ted Porter

I talked to Ted a while ago. While on the phone he looked at an online picture of a Roadster and said the adjuster should fit under the seat. I was hoping to get a more definite and first-hand answer from someone on this forum who has a Wilbers installed on the rear.

[deilenberger]

FWIW - the HyperPro adjuster fits where the stock one does, and comes with a bracket to mount it to the existing mounting point. Works just fine..

[Dr. Strangelove]

I was hoping to get a more definite and first-hand answer from someone on this forum who has a Wilbers installed on the rear.

remember I have the 1150 roadster, but mine is attached to the left rear subframe.
i had to cut off a small protrusion on the arm of the subframe that no one knows what it's there for.

[Dr. Strangelove]

FWIW - the HyperPro adjuster fits where the stock one does, and comes with a bracket to mount it to the existing mounting point. Works just fine..

that would be better...I wonder if such a bracket exists for the Wilbers?

[hjsbmw]

FWIW - the HyperPro adjuster fits where the stock one does, and comes with a bracket to mount it to the existing mounting point. Works just fine..

I like the Hyperpros more and more. I had a brief email exchange with Klaus H. Can you confirm that they have steel bodies? Their online documentation stresses that they are mostly made of aluminum. They sound really similar to the Wilbers otherwise, but they offer a progressive spring. Can you recommend that feature?

[ContraMoto]

Price of Wilbers vs price of Hypers....anybody know?

[hjsbmw]

Price of Wilbers vs price of Hypers....anybody know?

I don't know for the whole spectrum of options, but the two brands seem closely in the same ballpark with the HP slightly more expensive.

Here are the quotes I got for HP:

Front shock: Model 360 = $ 569.00
with adjustable rebound damping

Rear shock: Model 460 = $ 589.00
with adjustable rebound damping

Rear shock: Model 469 = $ 1,009.00
with adjustable rebound damping, with articulated piggy back reservoir
and high/low speed compression damping.

Optional:
HPA = Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster (remote) = $ 269.00


And for Wilbers:

The front Wilbers will have rebound damping adjust and manual spring preload adjust: $569.00.

The rear can be built many different ways, but the most common build for your bike has hydraulic preload adjust and rebound damping adjust: $798.00.

So, a similar setup with manual front and hydraulic adjust rear would run $1367 for the Wilbers and $1427 for the HP. The HP gives you progressive springs at no extra cost.

[deilenberger]

I was hoping to get a more definite and first-hand answer from someone on this forum who has a Wilbers installed on the rear.

remember I have the 1150 roadster, but mine is attached to the left rear subframe.
i had to cut off a small protrusion on the arm of the subframe that no one knows what it's there for.

Was wondering why you were commenting in an R1200R forum (although since you're probably going to get one, it's OK..)?

[deilenberger]

FWIW - the HyperPro adjuster fits where the stock one does, and comes with a bracket to mount it to the existing mounting point. Works just fine..

I like the Hyperpros more and more. I had a brief email exchange with Klaus H. Can you confirm that they have steel bodies? Their online documentation stresses that they are mostly made of aluminum. They sound really similar to the Wilbers otherwise, but they offer a progressive spring. Can you recommend that feature?

I'd have to take a magnet to it to check, but the tube part is steel from memory. The rest of it is aluminum. The tube is actually not a really significant part of the shock as far as weight. It's thin-walled and threaded at both ends. I believe steel was used for better finish quality on the inner bore and the ability to make it quite thin while having the required strength. The shock rod is also steel of some sorts (strength and finish again..) AFAIK - no one makes a shock with an aluminum rod.

I have a progressive spring on the front, and a linear spring on the rear. I wasn't that happy with the progressive on the rear, but it seems I'm the only one who isn't (even though Hyperpro does sell linear springs..) I had difficulty getting the sag/preload correct with the progressive spring on the rear. Might just be me.. Klaus and I have talked about it a few times..

[parkec]

I went with Wilbers from the beemershop a couple of years ago. My hydraulic adjuster is mounted
to my subframe. I don't fiddle with it much. Pretty much use settings straight from the Beemershop. Plug and Play.

No complaints here.

[Dr. Strangelove]

I went with Wilbers from the beemershop a couple of years ago. My hydraulic adjuster is mounted
to my subframe. I don't fiddle with it much. Pretty much use settings straight from the Beemershop. Plug and Play.

No complaints here.

+1, though after about 35k miles I am tempted to