GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII

[Biped]

I posted this on the MOA site, but since this place is R1150R-specific...

Here's the latest dimwit question. I need to reorient the hydraulic lines from my brake and clutch fluid reservoirs to make the GS hand guards fit my 2004 R1150R. If I loosen the allen screws slightly, could I rotate the 90-degree fittings a little without introducing air into the system? I wouldn't touch the levers. I've dremeled the cutouts on the handguards pretty extensively, but this still seems necessary.

Wait -- make that two dimwit questions. If I remove and reinstall the same screws holding the bar end weights, is there some sort of Loctite-like substance I should apply? I notice there is a dab of some colored stuff on the longer replacement screws that came with the guards.

[Beemeridian]

11

[pat ryan]

okay, so i'll add my own dimwit question: is there a link to an instruction on how to bleed these lines? i finally got the gs handguards installed tonight. thanks in advance.
best regards,
pat

[CycleRob]

I've dremeled the cutouts on the handguards pretty extensively . . .

Every time someone cuts and trims the plastic . . . . weakening the assembly . . . . . I cringe. The only thing you need to trim is the clutch master cylinder's little Aluminum boss protrusion that prevents the line's banjo fitting from being rotated toward the handlebar (after loosening slightly). At least that's how it is with the rubber hose lines on my 2002 model.

[riceburner]

I've dremeled the cutouts on the handguards pretty extensively . . .

Every time someone cuts and trims the plastic . . . . weakening the assembly . . . . . I cringe. The only thing you need to trim is the clutch master cylinder's little Aluminum boss protrusion that prevents the line's banjo fitting from being rotated toward the handlebar (after loosening slightly). At least that's how it is with the rubber hose lines on my 2002 model.

Rob - the handguards aren't going to be used for protecting the hands from anything more robust than highway dirt.

I'd far rather weaken the guard slightly, as long as it'll still stay in one piece, than attempt to alter anything on the brake or clutch master-cylinder.

[Biped]

I've dremeled the cutouts on the handguards pretty extensively . . .

Every time someone cuts and trims the plastic . . . . weakening the assembly . . . . . I cringe. The only thing you need to trim is the clutch master cylinder's little Aluminum boss protrusion that prevents the line's banjo fitting from being rotated toward the handlebar (after loosening slightly). At least that's how it is with the rubber hose lines on my 2002 model.

RATS! I overlooked the boss that prevents rotation of the banjo fitting. My farkle rule of thumb is no permanent alterations to the bike. Back to square one.

[Beemeridian]

55

[riceburner]

Rob - the handguards aren't going to be used for protecting the hands from anything more robust than highway dirt.
I'd far rather weaken the guard slightly, as long as it'll still stay in one piece, than attempt to alter anything on the brake or clutch master-cylinder.

My comment is specific to this thread and what Biped is doing. A little cutting is not such a bad thing but he said he has Dremmeled "extensively", as have many others who perform this modification. The hand guards protect against flying debris, relating to part of the reason we wear gloves - my gloved fingers have been struck many times by thrown rocks and stones, and the possibility should be considered that there is a scarce limit to the amount of strength removed from a protector. Hit hard enough it could collapse - pinning levers or hands. Like Cyclerob I am against much Dremeling of the hand guards.
Resistance to modifying an expensive part of the motorcycle, like the switchgear, is easily understandable. However, removing those tabs cannot aesthetically nor functionally harm the machine in any way.
Just my .02¢

I beg to differ.

Those bosses serve a useful purpose : to "self-align" the banjo connections when the bolt is being tightened - it means you don't have to hold the hose while getting the bolt to the correct torque, and the hose is routed so that it doesn't interfere with anything.

Suppose the bike is sold, the handguards removed, and then taken to a dealer or bought by someone who is aware of the bosses, but is not aware that they have been removed?

If the handguards have to have soo much material removed in order to fit, that their structural strength is massively compromised, then I would imagine that they really aren't meant to go on!!

[rdsmith3]

I must be in the lucky minority, as I did not have to modify the hand guards or the banjo lines or anything else to fit them on my Roadster. Keep in mind that BMW's instructions on the hand guards specifically say that only the clutch line passes through it on the left side, and only the brake and throttle lines pass through on the right side. Any other wires go around the hand guards. Perhaps this is contributing to the difficulty in fitting them.

[DSKYZD]

I'll try to take pics of my recently installed guards and post them. No mod to the guards, but I did have to move the banjo bolts.

[Biped]

"Extensively" may be a slight overstatement. I'll post a photo when I get home. I was mindful not to degrade the structure significantly, but it's still something of a compromise.

The handlebar brackets are the real problem. On R1150R bars, they are just don't sit at the correct angle to mate with the guards. I'm thinking of junking the BMW brackets and rigging up something else but no brilliant ideas so far.

[Airman]

I've dremeled the cutouts on the handguards pretty extensively . . .

Every time someone cuts and trims the plastic . . . . weakening the assembly . . . . . I cringe. The only thing you need to trim is the clutch master cylinder's little Aluminum boss protrusion that prevents the line's banjo fitting from being rotated toward the handlebar (after loosening slightly). At least that's how it is with the rubber hose lines on my 2002 model.

Rob - the handguards aren't going to be used for protecting the hands from anything more robust than highway dirt.

I'd far rather weaken the guard slightly, as long as it'll still stay in one piece, than attempt to alter anything on the brake or clutch master-cylinder.

I don't see why there's a need to cut much on these guards at all. I had them on the stock bars and they're on my Ricky bar setup now. I did not have to move the brake or clutch lines at all and in retrospect I could see how the twisting of the guard might let you avoid cutting them at all. I have always disliked the looks of the GS guards, but they have a significant affect on the amount of rain that impacts my gloves...not to mention bugs. I don't expect them to be much physical protection, but it could be they'd save your levers in a spill. Wunderlich has a pair with an aluminum frame over the lever if anyone is looking for impact protection.

[Sunbeemer]

I didn't have to cut anything to install mine, but they were used from Bob's and didn't include the handlebar clamps, so I used some black-plastic Bimini-top clamps (for boat awnings) to fasten them to the handlebars. They work great and don't interfere with anything. All the wiring and the hydraulics pass through these clamps, and although the left and right protectors are not rotated quite the same, it's very hard to tell by looking at them they aren't aligned, and most importantly, neither touch the levers. I'll try to put some pics up soon.

[Beemeridian]

77

[DSKYZD]

Along with Beemeridian's excellent instructions and pictures, here are some more pictures of mounted handguards. The mounts can be placed at slightly different positions on the bar to allow the needed rotation for lever clearance. My mounts are as high as I could get them and I had to twist the guards a lot to get the needed clearance.





You can see in that next to the last picture how some of the cables went on one side of the bolt and some on the other.

A few more pics are in the full gallery here.

DSKYZD

[Beemeridian]

66

[DSKYZD]

Dave, remember when were at that guy's house looking at the handguards on that one bike that time?

I noticed how, on that install, the mounts were lower down on the handlebar which let them rotate forward a little more. I could see where one might want to dremel that opening for the cables. That helps me understand what CycleRob talks about when he advises to cut the tab so the banjo bolt can rotate a little closer to the handlebar. I didn't cut that tab though I believe it would make the installation easier. CycleRob, you always give good advice, I just don't always take it. See my rear brake pad thread update. In this case I didn't understand that advice until after I'd tackled the install.

[wncbmw]

Put me down in the dremel crowd, although not too much and only on one side. I figured it was better than loosening and rotating perfectly functioning lines!

As far as weakening them for protection reasons, who cares?! I take mine off when spring comes anyway!

[johnnyjs1]

Dremel here too. Only one side on the rockster(right side)

[Biped]

Along with Beemeridian's excellent instructions and pictures, here are some more pictures of mounted handguards. The mounts can be placed at slightly different positions on the bar to allow the needed rotation for lever clearance. My mounts are as high as I could get them and I had to twist the guards a lot to get the needed clearance.





You can see in that next to the last picture how some of the cables went on one side of the bolt and some on the other.

A few more pics are in the full gallery here.

DSKYZD

Hmmm... I didn't mount my handlebar brackets nearly that high. Maybe that's the trick... Thanks much for the photos and insight.