So here is what happened: The other night I started the 1998 R1100-RT-Police Issue and the headlight (both high beam and low beam) illuminated just fine during a one minute warm-up. I pushed the bike forward off the stand and the headlight flickered as if the motor was about to stall and electrical power to the light faultered for just a second. The light worked just fine again until I did a U-turn and POOF...no headlight and then discovered, no tail light. So I parked the bike that night and got a ride home in a car.
Next day, I check the fuses--all is OK Put a volt meter on the battery while the engine was running and the alternator is charging just fine--all is OK (12.7-13.4V under a load) Manually push the spring-loaded high beam switch and that is working just fine (Still no tail light however) Pulled the bulb and the filiments are in perfect order--all is OK with that too. I also checked the wire harness to see if something got pinched or cut or if a plug came loose--all is OK
So...now what? I haven't checked to see if the tallight bulb is burned out but that is next.
I need suggestions as to what to do to solve the electrical problem.
Thanks everyone!
Die Klockwerken Antique Clock Repair & Restoration, Cleveland, Ohio
Klockwerken wrote:Hmmm...from my recollection, there is no switch below the iginition key.
Trust me- there is.
The ignition switch is turned when you rotate the key in the ignition lock. Look under the triple clamp. I think the green wire will be your culprit. The ignition switch is white plastic and is known to smoke on R1100s, especially if aux lights have been added.
I vote ignition switch too. It's a 1998 and extra lighting may have been erroneously added to the lighting circuit w/o a relay to the battery. The ignition switch is actually 2 switches. One set of contacts for the engine/bike and the other set, that likely are burned away, for the headlite/tailite.
If you turn your key to the park position, your tail lite may work. If it does, that confirms ignition switch=bad. If it does not, ignition switch=really bad.
OK, I'm a believer! Thanks everyone. Tonight, I will double check to see / locate the iginition switch in question. I really appreciate the assistance and advice. Let you all know tomorrow what I find.
Die Klockwerken Antique Clock Repair & Restoration, Cleveland, Ohio
Klockwerken, The problem can also be in the ignition switch's wire harness that leads to the plug-in under the left front of the fueltank (on an R1150R). Since you said:
"The light worked just fine again until I did a U-turn and POOF...no headlight and then discovered, no tail light."
I should have caught that in my first response. That, turning the steering for the U turn, makes a harness wire break the most likely failure. You may get the light to flicker with the engine idling if you massage&move the wire's loop leading to the ignition switch. Sometimes the wires break right at the point where they are soldered to the bottom of the switch. Either way, replacing the ignition switch should fix the problem, unless an owner splice-in repair makes more $en$e. If you do get a new IgSw, have a BMW dealer code the new lock to your old key too. It can be done anytime later on, as long as you have both keys.
Great news...headlights / taillights are working properly and here is the final verdict.
There is a quick connect plug going from the port side handlebars sprouting from the low beam-high beam thumb switch to the headlight. It too had the tell tail green wire-white wire combo.
Well, I started there and lo and behold after a bit of connector cleaning and a very small rat tail file, I was back in business and traffic law compliant thanks entirely to all of you that pointed me in the right direction.
If there is one testimony for joining a forum of this nature, it is the technical advice and camaraderie we all share--many thanks to all.
Sincerely, Klockwerken
Die Klockwerken Antique Clock Repair & Restoration, Cleveland, Ohio
A plug-in connector failed? Corrosion? - - - That's way way down on the "My lites don't work" list and usually gets discovered (like you did) on the way to checking the most likely failures. Because the mfgr designed the connector to handle the electrical load for at least beyond the warranty period + 1yr, I still feel queezy about the problem being cured while not being informed about what caused it..
I believe your "lights out" problem will not be gone for long and here's why. If corrosion was able to break the connection inside the plug-in, then your cleaning it away with a file will make the male/female mechanical connection even less solid. A cleaned, lightly contacting connection will work for a while until the normal electrical load gradually heats up the low resistance connection which soon causes minute arcing. Once that starts it is a run-away sputtering hot reaction until the available connection is burned away and the lights flicker out (again). The female terminals need to be removed from the plastic plug, squeezed slightly tighter, then reinstalled. Their small hidden retention tabs must be released to remove them.
You may have noticed how easy the connector plugged back in after being filed clean. That's not good. For high current connections, like the headlite one, there should be resistance to being plugged in that a 12 year old girl would have great difficulty doing with her available strength. After you perform my stated female terminal compression, your plug-in force will be much greater and the connection very solid. If dielectric grease is unobtanium for one 1 reason or another, a quick shot of chainlube in each female terminal before connection will protect the connections for years.
If the metal terminals are discolored from overheating, they are annealed, lost their strength forever and must be replaced. If there's no replacement available, eliminate the plugs with a direct soldered together connection from each wire to it's intended mating wire. I have had to perform this permanent fix on many Regulator/Rectifier plugs that fry at the connector on too many Japanese M/C's with (cheap-O) permanent magnet alternators.
Being you have a Police model (?) I suspect there are additional lites in the same circuit, or an upgrade to higher wattage bulbs, that caused the terminal failure. Also in the picture is regular winter riding where salt spray will do it's dirty deeds cumulatively without being periodically removed.
I just realized this rambling on is large , but it's info can be used by many in other diagnostic/repair situations. Experience, good & bad, is the best teacher. Who'd a thunk a 12 yr old girl is a good circuit tester?
My questions:
Was the connection overheated, as evidenced by plastic plug or metal terminal discoloration?
Are you one of those hardcore ride-in-the-rain Winter riders?
EDIT @18:30 8-18-07: Just got off the phone with Klockwerken (Charles) and we discussed this in greater detail and the need to go back in there and strengthen the lightweight connection. I have experience with repairing high current connectors like the one for the ignition switch and it must be a very secure fit or a future untimely failure is certain. Report by Klockwerken to follow.
Unfortunately, I did not have time this weekend for the needed connector repairs--between other committments and the weather closing in on us here in Northeast Ohio, nothing was done on the bike but...this week if it should ever stop raining, I will disassemble the connector and crimp the female end together a little better.
I certainly enjoyed our phone conversation and so feel free to contact me in the future.
Klockwerken
Die Klockwerken Antique Clock Repair & Restoration, Cleveland, Ohio
Well, the rains have finally stopped in the Northeast Ohio Region and I was able to correct the quick disconnect problem which was the source of trouble from the get-go. CycleRob was instrumental in prompting me to take the necessary action in cinching the female connector together in addition to adding a connector paste to enhance better conductivity.
Die Klockwerken Antique Clock Repair & Restoration, Cleveland, Ohio
I know this post is old but I am having this same problem. The bigger problem is that I am not a gear head and do not know how to fix this. I am looking for videos on how to this as I can't ride with the head light blinking on and off...... Can anyone assist me on the actual breakdown of how to access the connectors and repair/tighten them?
Many thanks!
I check the fuses--all is OK
I haven't checked to see if the tallight bulb is burned out but that is next.
OK, I'm a believer! Thanks everyone. Tonight, I will double check to see / locate the iginition switch in question. I really appreciate the assistance and advice. Let you all know tomorrow what I find.