Need help installing lights

[Arby60]

I have a set of Whelen 700-Series LED Lightheads that I would like to install on my 2002 R1150RT-P. They would be auxiliary brake and tail lights. Specs. indicate Input Current for taillights at 0.125 AMPS and Brake lights at 0.70 AMPS. I contacted Whelen and they said that since LED's have such low current draw there will be no impact on my motorcycle's electrical system. I would feel more comfortable with input from those who know motorcycles, and would appreciate your thoughts. My question is this. Would the combined draw of the brake lights of 1.4 AMPS be too much draw on the circuit if I wired them into the existing tail/brake lights? If so, what are other alternatives? Thank you.

Ray

[geothepencil]

Ray, Let me tell you of my experience. On my 02 R1150R I installed some Running Lights in the turn signal pods. Rather than use the tail light wiring I soldered into the license plate light circuit keeping polarity in mind. The current draw is minor and the important feature of BMW bikes of that series is maintained in that if the running part of the bulb burns out, a fault light kicks in to tell you the bulb is out. I don't think that feature works if you splice into the tail light circuit with LEDs. Now as for the stop light part. There is extra capacity in the design as I replaced my bulb with one that is brighter on the stop circuit and thus draws more current with no problems. Based on that, I think you could splice into that wire with your LEDs and be fine. The limiting factor in BMW wiring is sometimes the size of the ground wire which may be common to both high and low light circuits. If thats a problem simply increase the size of the ground wire.

In case you want to go the way of using a different bulb, just keep in mind that the replacement bulb, while brighter on the stop part of the bulb, has less of an expected life so get the long life version of the bulb and change it every so often on a preventative basis. Its only a little more for the long life version. I'll post the bulb # a little later when I get home and look it up.

geo

Edit: here's a discussion of 1157/2357LL (this is one you want)
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/taillite.shtml

I replaced my P25-2 BMW bulb with the Sylvania 2357LL

[mcooperstein]

If your wiring off of the brake tail light, AND you have ABS, there is a possibility that the extra current from your running lights will cause an ABS malfunction, or so BMW claims.

Mark

[gersh10]

Ok so I'm going to also ask for help when it comes to installing lights on my R1200R... Color coding and where to tap into wires are my questions. I've added the Givi V46 top box with the mini Admore light kit with the Givi light kit harness. I do not want to tap in right at the tail light due to limited space and I also intend to add the E36 side cases with the Admore kits in them as well. I was thinking of opening the harness under the seat. Has anyone done this, and if so what did you find? Is it hard to distinguish what's what???

Thanks for any help here in advance.
Todd

[CycleRob]

gersh10,
Your R1200R has the CAN-bus system that controls and monitors the current draw of every component. While that bothered me in the beginning when considering the new F800ST purchase, it does have many good attributes and I have come to appreciate the real world advantages:
1--No fuses!
2--No fried wire harnesses from short circuits!
3--The (monitored) power draw is automatically cut off to a short circuit or the high current draw of a failed component.
4--The problem is identified and recorded.
5--Power cut by the computer is restored if the short/problem is corrected (or disappears) at time of start-up.
6--A smashed or disconnected instrument cluster will not prevent the bike from running and being ridden.
7--Automatic idle control and fast idle, like a car.
8--There are very few wires, anywhere!

OK, back to your lighting job . . . you'll need to tap into the front pilot light's power wire to provide "key on" relay switched battery power to your driving lites, GPS and all other 12 Volt farkles you want to go "on/off" with the key.
Here's my method:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=18007
The 5Watt bulb's blue power wire color should be the same.

The very low current draw of all the trunk and case LED lights may be tolerated by the computer's current monitoring system, especially if you replace the bike's park/brake/signal bulbs with LED versions. There are inexpensive workaround solutions to whatever occurs.

.

[gersh10]

Thanks, I'm going to tackle this next week. I'm down loading your photos and going to see if I can put it together in my head before diving it, not to mention a run to Radio Shack.

[gersh10]

gersh10,

OK, back to your lighting job . . . you'll need to tap into the front pilot light's power wire to provide "key on" relay switched battery power to your driving lites, GPS and all other 12 Volt farkles you want to go "on/off" with the key.
Here's my method:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=18007
The 5Watt bulb's blue power wire color should be the same.

The very low current draw of all the trunk and case LED lights may be tolerated by the computer's current monitoring system, especially if you replace the bike's park/brake/signal bulbs with LED versions. There are inexpensive workaround solutions to whatever occurs.

.

So just how and where do I find the front pilot light's power wire and does it give me my brake light? I guess my problem is where on my bike to tap in??? I'd like to keep it under the seat. and I'd love to add a box to isolate things from my electrical system but how do I access brakes and blinkers... I intend to add side cases later with the addmore lights with the blinkers and brake lights going there as well... I'm just paranoid to cut into my harness, and once inside the tape are things pretty easy to figure out with color codes (which I need)??? I did follow your link and that's impressive and looks great but doesn't look anything like my set up on the RR...

Thanks again for any help,
Todd