GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
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- riceburner
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Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
Another tip...
remove all the cable ties that are tying the wiring closely together and to the bars - this makes it a LOT easier to get the guards on, and then you can arrange the wiring routing to suit (sensibly, natch!)
remove all the cable ties that are tying the wiring closely together and to the bars - this makes it a LOT easier to get the guards on, and then you can arrange the wiring routing to suit (sensibly, natch!)
Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
That's exactly what I did, too. I tightened the inside clamps first. Then I twisted them to ensure that the levers had adequate clearance while tightening the bar end screws.DSKYZD wrote:Along with Beemeridian's excellent instructions and pictures, here are some more pictures of mounted handguards. The mounts can be placed at slightly different positions on the bar to allow the needed rotation for lever clearance. My mounts are as high as I could get them and I had to twist the guards a lot to get the needed clearance.
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
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MikeCam
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Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
I've installed the R1150GS handguards on Roadsters and Rocksters with no adjustment to either the bike's fittings and cables nor to the handguards. It is readily accomplished. Down the road usage shows no wear and tear, no abrasion of anything and no interference with the levers. The steps are easy: loosely fit all parts, slowly and sequentially tighten all parts, avoid pinching, rubbing or constricting any existing parts, hoses, fittings.
The result is less wind across the hands, enhanced effect of the heated grips, and no road debris hitting hands. The only downside is a change to the wind and turbulence across the guards - barely noticed.
The result is less wind across the hands, enhanced effect of the heated grips, and no road debris hitting hands. The only downside is a change to the wind and turbulence across the guards - barely noticed.
The Older I Get, The Less I Know.
Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
I am thinking handguards on my 03- 50R, which has bar setbacks/ups. Just asking before I buy parts-will my handlebars being raised and rearward from stock, interfere with installation? Also, are the Wunderlich and BMW OEM the only handguards out there? Thanks in adavnce!
Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
kantuckid,
Check Beemeridian's post earlier in this topic. His link is to instructions on mounting the handguards. He had some sort of risers, not sure which.
DSKYZD
Check Beemeridian's post earlier in this topic. His link is to instructions on mounting the handguards. He had some sort of risers, not sure which.
DSKYZD
JOURNEY JUNKIE #187
Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
He had a picture that showed risers but not the riser/barbacks that I have.
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Berliner Kindl
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Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
I tried to do it the way the pictures showed - it just did not work for me. 45 minutes later, I just rotated the grip assemblies and it was simple after that. It lined up the bar with the clamps and kept the hydraulic lines above the grips.
- grwrockster
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Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
I've fitted handguards first to my Rock, then a mate's 'R, and finally again onto my Rock but onto fitted 'GS bars. I didn't need to cut anything on any of them.
It was (as you'd expect) straightforward on the 'GS 'bars. The Rock bars are too straight, but if you connect the clamps and the 'guard combo to the tubular bars first, then there's plenty of flex in the 'guards so you can persuade them into place and fit the 'bar-end which keeps them in the required shape/position (doing it the other way around won't work btw - you need the 'bar clamps holding that end of the 'guard first).
Then simply tighten everything up to hold 'em in place where you want 'em. If you need a smidge more clearance around a master cylinder, then you can move the clamp up a bit closer to the m-cylinder. The closer position means the distance between clamp and 'bar-end is reduced, which then 'bows' the 'guard a little more when the 'bar-end is fitted - and gives you more room around the m-cylinder.
Ditto for the 'R' - the 'bars are a different shape of course, but I found them easier to fit than on std Rockster 'bars as the bend is closer to 'GS shape than the Rock 'bars - I think they were out of the packet and fitted in 20 minutes without rushing that time.
The clamps and fitting method allow a bit of 'wiggle-room' with the handguards, so I found they'll fit all these bikes without much bother. A bit of thought applied and a willingness to fiddle a bit does the trick - no Dremel attacks on any parts required.
(Is there an award for the most apostrophes ever used in a single post
?) I hope this helps. G.
It was (as you'd expect) straightforward on the 'GS 'bars. The Rock bars are too straight, but if you connect the clamps and the 'guard combo to the tubular bars first, then there's plenty of flex in the 'guards so you can persuade them into place and fit the 'bar-end which keeps them in the required shape/position (doing it the other way around won't work btw - you need the 'bar clamps holding that end of the 'guard first).
Then simply tighten everything up to hold 'em in place where you want 'em. If you need a smidge more clearance around a master cylinder, then you can move the clamp up a bit closer to the m-cylinder. The closer position means the distance between clamp and 'bar-end is reduced, which then 'bows' the 'guard a little more when the 'bar-end is fitted - and gives you more room around the m-cylinder.
Ditto for the 'R' - the 'bars are a different shape of course, but I found them easier to fit than on std Rockster 'bars as the bend is closer to 'GS shape than the Rock 'bars - I think they were out of the packet and fitted in 20 minutes without rushing that time.
The clamps and fitting method allow a bit of 'wiggle-room' with the handguards, so I found they'll fit all these bikes without much bother. A bit of thought applied and a willingness to fiddle a bit does the trick - no Dremel attacks on any parts required.
(Is there an award for the most apostrophes ever used in a single post
Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
has anyone tried the barkbuster storm handguards? they look easy to install.
2002 R1150R black
- grwrockster
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Re: GS hand guards on an R1150R - part XXVII
FWIW... I've put a set of BMW R1150GS Handguards on 3 handlebar types i.e. Rockster, then R, lastly GS. My Rock had stock bars with bar-backs when I first fitted handguards. I then put a pair onto a friends R1150 for him after he'd ridden my bike with them on. Finally when I fitted GS bars to my Rock I refitted my original set onto the bars they were intended for
I didn't need to trim anything to fit them onto any of the bars though. As others have said, the trick is to fit the handlebar clamps first (note that there's room through the guard handlebar clamp for a line or wiring to go through it. My bike has the brake line running through the RH guard, while the clutch line runs over the top of the clamp non the LH Guard but the wiring and fast idle cable runs through the guard on the other side).
With the handlebar clamps in the best place for your set-up, then there is plenty of flexibility in the guard construction to then bend/twist them a bit to get them into position over the bar-end weight. Then tighten up the end weight while holding the handguard where you want it so it doesn't foul the levers.
I found this was the only way to fit them to the Rockster bars easily as Stock rockster 'bars are far straighter and flatter than the GS bars the handguards were intended for. On Rockster 'bars the
Hope this helps
!
G.
I didn't need to trim anything to fit them onto any of the bars though. As others have said, the trick is to fit the handlebar clamps first (note that there's room through the guard handlebar clamp for a line or wiring to go through it. My bike has the brake line running through the RH guard, while the clutch line runs over the top of the clamp non the LH Guard but the wiring and fast idle cable runs through the guard on the other side).
With the handlebar clamps in the best place for your set-up, then there is plenty of flexibility in the guard construction to then bend/twist them a bit to get them into position over the bar-end weight. Then tighten up the end weight while holding the handguard where you want it so it doesn't foul the levers.
I found this was the only way to fit them to the Rockster bars easily as Stock rockster 'bars are far straighter and flatter than the GS bars the handguards were intended for. On Rockster 'bars the
Hope this helps
G.