first gear

[dd]

hi all.
love the forum.
love the bike.
my r1150r is my first bike ever, and it is fabulous.
my question is about first gear:
at startup, it won't go into first gear. if i start in second and roll it a bit, then it will accept first gear. does anyone know why this is?
(i bought it used with 3000 miles, but it seems to be in pristine condition)
thanks.
-daniel.

[MIXR]

The gearbox in these things is .......... ah .................'agricultural'. Solid, but rough. Mine has always needed a bit of 'help'. I'll assume your clutch fluid is ok, and the clutch isn't sloppy here. Try giving the clutch a squeeze/release/squeeze. Does it go into gear a bit easier? Maybe it's just a bleed that's needed. There are 'time-based' servicings on these things. Clutch fluid is one of them. Check that. It's unlikely that it's anything other than some old fluid, or some air, or just a stiff box. 3,000 miles and it's still brand new. Wouldn't get excited about it.

[Robert_winter_1000]

Hello Daniel,

I agree with you about the forum and the bike. I have had the same problem and it sounds a typical phenomena for this bike. The solution is simple: Put the clutch grip on wider opening (2 or 3) and try double or even triple clutch when the motor is cold. Sure after reaching the 10.000 miles he will be much easier.

Regards
Robert

[Boxer]

When its cold, pull in the clutch and tap it into gear pretty quick. After it gets hot pull in the clutch and count to 3 then tap it in. Wait any longer and it'll "CLUNK" in.

[triggerfish]

Hello Daniel,

I agree with you about the forum and the bike. I have had the same problem and it sounds a typical phenomena for this bike. The solution is simple: Put the clutch grip on wider opening (2 or 3) and try double or even triple clutch when the motor is cold. Sure after reaching the 10.000 miles he will be much easier.

Regards
Robert

I put my bike on neutral sometimes in stoplights and did have trouble shifting from N to 1. Now my clutch grip is in 2 (from 1) as advised by my mechanic and it shifts easily to first gear.

[ruddy]

This is a well known "feature" of these gearboxes. Mine does it nearly every morning. Try easing out the clutch slightly as you press down on the shift lever, and it will slip right into first gear. No problem.

[hirschg]

I sometimes have the same issue in the mornings when the bike is cold
I just rock the bike slightly backwards and it goes right into 1st other than that no problems (if you consider that a problem). seems to me to be a normal characteristic of the gearbox..............hirschg

[Buckster]

I second what Ruddy says. It doesn't happen to me often but when it does, I use Ruddy's technique.

[Lion_Lady]

I find rolling the bike forward or back a couple inches helps.

Easing the lever our a bit works if the roll is impractical.

P

[bransan]

This is a well known "feature" of these gearboxes. Mine does it nearly every morning. Try easing out the clutch slightly as you press down on the shift lever, and it will slip right into first gear. No problem.

Yes this is the correct measure to take. You'll know when the clutch needs attention, because it will shift roughly in the lower gears. Just apply slight downward pressure while slightly letting the clutch engage.

[CycleRob]

This "problem" surfaces every couple months to people that have no understanding of or experience with an automotive type clutch. That's OK, I don't have a clue about income tax itemization so I pay the pros. You're in luck though, because what's happening is a lot easier to understand than taxes, and you won't have to pay to become a pro at it.

Why it happens: When the engine is running the clutch disk and transmission input shaft it's mounted to turn with the engine -until- you pull in the clutch. From that instant on, the clutch/shaft assembly coasts to a stop from the drag of the transmission oil on meshing gears and bearings. If the engine is cold it can be as quick as a half second. When the engine's hot and the idle is 1,200 rpm it can be almost 3 seconds. When the clutch/shaft stops it may or may not go into gear because of WHERE it stops. For the shift to be possible with a stopped clutch/shaft a tooth must be aligned with a slot in the gear it will shift into. If a tooth aligns with a tooth on the mating gear (1st gear) it will not go into gear. The shifter will go part way, but stay in neutral, totally frustrating the new-2-BMW rider.

What to do about it: Pushing the bike forward or back works by moving the tooth alignment to a slot, but that's like walking on your hands - - - there are better ways. Pressure on the shifter and easing out the clutch also works, but on rare occasions you may not get full engagement into 1st gear and it'll pop out of gear when you gas it and that could damage $hift fork$. The best way is to let out the clutch, pull it in and, over time, learn how long to wait before selecting 1st gear, depending on engine/transmission temp, so it goes into gear with an audible "snick" -instead of- a loud "clunk" (and a small jump forward). A "CLUNK" and jump going into gear means the clutch/shaft assembly was still spinning too fast when 1st was selected. I've seen novices let the clutch out and rev the engine, thinking it was in gear, then after realizing it was still in neutral, quickly pull in the clutch and tap it into 1st gear while the engine was still over 2,000 rpm. Pulling in the clutch and shifting into 1st at over 2,000 rpm gives zero time for the clutch/shaft assembly to slow down enough to engage with the stopped slots on the shaft that's geared to the rear wheel. You will get a lot more than a "clunk". you'll get a CLAANNNKKK" and a serious jump forward from the stored energy of the heavy clutch/shaft assembly going from 2,000+ rpm to zero in a millisecond as it transfers it's kinetic energy to the stopped rear wheel. Ouch! Don't DO THAT!!!

What to remember: Listen to the severity of the snick, clunk or clank when you shift into 1st gear, based on the idle speed, your time pause and the engine/transmission's temp. You want quiet and discrete. Wait longer if it was loud. Do it quicker if it won't go into gear. Pay attention to the engine/trans temp and idle rpm. Over time you'll graduate to an experienced BMW OilHead rider who only "snicks" quietly. His transmission will last longer than yours too.

[Sunbeemer]

Yet another clearly explained bit of Beemerobilia, Rob!