Can someone explain to me in very basic terms ( possibly with pictures and little arrows ) how to set uo the shocks on the R1200R for optimum performance? Which is the preload? What does the knob on the rear shock do? What does the little screw do?
I went for a fair ride today and things felt pretty good but they could very possibly get lots better.
Mark
Shock Set Up
Moderator: Moderators
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=8748
C'mon you just realy got to try it for yourself cause only you know what you like in your ride. As you only have the rear to wory about on the R things are pretty easy.
Small screw effects the way the shock bounces back up again so more rebound damping means slower upward motion.
Big knob UNDER the saddle is pre load and the small screw on the base of the shock is rebound damping. Basic rule is increase rebound along with the preload, so more pre load at the big knob(the less white marks you see the more preload you dialed in) should also mean that you turn the small screw at the base towards the +. Make sure you start at the factory set position(look up in manual). Factory settings are probably for a 75kg guy so if you weigh more increase preload and rebound damping if you weigh less decrease. Don't have the spring to hard though always allow the bike to move down a bit when you sit on it("sag" look up on the web) cause if you don't have this movement your shocks won't have a negative suspension stroke witch is bad for keeping contact with the road. If you wan't to adjust the sag you need another guy to measure the movement of the bike towards the wheel when you sit on the bike with your feet on the pegs(so probably a third guy to hold the bike at the bars is handy).
Big knob in the middle is pre load turn clockwise to increase:
http://www.motorfreaks.nl/fsget.php?id=22570
http://www.gostar-racing.com/informatio ... set-up.htm
C'mon you just realy got to try it for yourself cause only you know what you like in your ride. As you only have the rear to wory about on the R things are pretty easy.
Small screw effects the way the shock bounces back up again so more rebound damping means slower upward motion.
Big knob UNDER the saddle is pre load and the small screw on the base of the shock is rebound damping. Basic rule is increase rebound along with the preload, so more pre load at the big knob(the less white marks you see the more preload you dialed in) should also mean that you turn the small screw at the base towards the +. Make sure you start at the factory set position(look up in manual). Factory settings are probably for a 75kg guy so if you weigh more increase preload and rebound damping if you weigh less decrease. Don't have the spring to hard though always allow the bike to move down a bit when you sit on it("sag" look up on the web) cause if you don't have this movement your shocks won't have a negative suspension stroke witch is bad for keeping contact with the road. If you wan't to adjust the sag you need another guy to measure the movement of the bike towards the wheel when you sit on the bike with your feet on the pegs(so probably a third guy to hold the bike at the bars is handy).
Big knob in the middle is pre load turn clockwise to increase:
http://www.motorfreaks.nl/fsget.php?id=22570
http://www.gostar-racing.com/informatio ... set-up.htm
That's about 90kg I guess. But 75 kg is about 167 lbs I guess so go a big step upwards from the factory setting. Also considder the weight of your riding gear if you already haven't. I weigh in at 120kg(266 lbs 
) fully geared up and I'm at one stripe barely vissible on the pre load and like it like that. This way there's less movement under acceleration and the suspension still has enough sag. Still have to fiddle a bit with the rebound but the effects of this adjustment are rarely very big on standard shocks(all though I do feel it at lest works).
I suggest you read a lot about suspension on the web so you can understand it better and you will know what you are doing and what you should be changing to create the desired effect. It's not that hard to understand, getting it wright for the road though is a whole different story.
Whatever you do don't adjust 2 things at once begin with preload and if this feels wright adjust the rebound damoing to a point that the bike comes up in the way you like it(so not to fast this will make it bouncy and not to slow cause then the bike won't be ready for the next bump.
Have fun experimenting and don't worry that you will do something wrong cause you can always go back. Do keep the sag in mind though as this is very important.
) fully geared up and I'm at one stripe barely vissible on the pre load and like it like that. This way there's less movement under acceleration and the suspension still has enough sag. Still have to fiddle a bit with the rebound but the effects of this adjustment are rarely very big on standard shocks(all though I do feel it at lest works).I suggest you read a lot about suspension on the web so you can understand it better and you will know what you are doing and what you should be changing to create the desired effect. It's not that hard to understand, getting it wright for the road though is a whole different story.
Whatever you do don't adjust 2 things at once begin with preload and if this feels wright adjust the rebound damoing to a point that the bike comes up in the way you like it(so not to fast this will make it bouncy and not to slow cause then the bike won't be ready for the next bump.
Have fun experimenting and don't worry that you will do something wrong cause you can always go back. Do keep the sag in mind though as this is very important.
I'm sure somewhere in your owners manual you can find what the rear suspension travel on the bike is (should be about 4.5-5 inches). Getting the sag set up right is the most important thing. For street riding, you should set up the "sag" so that you're using about 1/3 (.33) of the full suspension travel with the bike fully loaded (you and what ever you plan on taking on the ride)
Basic course in setting sag:
- Put bike on center stand and tilt forward so rear tire is off ground.
- Measure vertically from somewhere near the hub to some point on the tail. (Let's say you get 20").
- Get two friends.
- Take bike off center stand, load it like you're going to ride it, and sit on it.
- Have one friend hold you up. The other friend measures between same two points. (Let's say you get 18" now). So total sag is 2".
- Divide total sag by total travel. 2/5 = . 4
- If the number is less than .33 decrease your preload (dial knob counterclockwise). If number is greater than .33 increase your preload (dial knob clockwise).
- Repeat measurement process.
How close you actually want to get to .33 is up to you
You might want to do this once with just you and gear, and once with you, gear, and a passenger. Remember where each setting is. That way you can just quickly switch back and fourth when riding single or double.
Here's the important thing. If you find that you've got the preload dialed in all the way, but you're getting too much sag, or you've got it out all the way and you're not getting enough sag, it's time to change the spring.
Rebound dampening is easy. If you feel the bike continues to bounce up and down after you pass a bump, or the bike wallows in turns, increase your rebound dampening. Start on the low side and work your way higher. Only increase enough to stop undesired wallowing and pogoing.
Basic course in setting sag:
- Put bike on center stand and tilt forward so rear tire is off ground.
- Measure vertically from somewhere near the hub to some point on the tail. (Let's say you get 20").
- Get two friends.
- Take bike off center stand, load it like you're going to ride it, and sit on it.
- Have one friend hold you up. The other friend measures between same two points. (Let's say you get 18" now). So total sag is 2".
- Divide total sag by total travel. 2/5 = . 4
- If the number is less than .33 decrease your preload (dial knob counterclockwise). If number is greater than .33 increase your preload (dial knob clockwise).
- Repeat measurement process.
How close you actually want to get to .33 is up to you
You might want to do this once with just you and gear, and once with you, gear, and a passenger. Remember where each setting is. That way you can just quickly switch back and fourth when riding single or double.
Here's the important thing. If you find that you've got the preload dialed in all the way, but you're getting too much sag, or you've got it out all the way and you're not getting enough sag, it's time to change the spring.
Rebound dampening is easy. If you feel the bike continues to bounce up and down after you pass a bump, or the bike wallows in turns, increase your rebound dampening. Start on the low side and work your way higher. Only increase enough to stop undesired wallowing and pogoing.
Ves (AKA Boy,Sledge, and Cheap Bastid)
Thanks Skippy , Ves , I got my sag adjustments done this afternoon. Mine measured out just right at the red line for a rider of 187 lbs. (85kg)with a full tank. 5.5 inches of travel. I think we got it down to about .32. As far as rebound damping goes I read in the booklet that for the 187 lb setting turn all the way "In arrow direction H then one and a half turns in arrow direction S". Using the terms "clockwise" and "counter clockwise" would have made it easier for me to understand my German Masters but I think I got it right. It feels pretty good. I also moved my handlebars forward a hair or three and that seems better to me. The bike is a blast. Coming from a K1200RS it feels like a trail bike.
Thanks for your help.
Mark
Thanks for your help.
Mark
Nice to hear you got it right Mark. Measuring the sag is probably one of the most importent things to start of with now its easy to adjust things if you like it firmer or a tad softer for certain conditions just try to keep track of what you've done. MIght be a good idea to write down how many yturns the preload adjuster is back from maximum.
Enjoy your ride
.
Enjoy your ride
.Glad it worked out for you.
Hey, I was just reading that other thread where the guy realized he had a rebound dampening adjustment on his front shock. Does yours have that? Does it also have a preload collar? It should at least have a preload collar. If it does, you should adjust the front similar to the back. The procedure is pretty much the same; unload front and take initial measurement, load it up and sit on it, take second measurement, etc.. In that case you could actually just measure the length of the exposed fork slider before and after loading.
Hey, I was just reading that other thread where the guy realized he had a rebound dampening adjustment on his front shock. Does yours have that? Does it also have a preload collar? It should at least have a preload collar. If it does, you should adjust the front similar to the back. The procedure is pretty much the same; unload front and take initial measurement, load it up and sit on it, take second measurement, etc.. In that case you could actually just measure the length of the exposed fork slider before and after loading.
Ves (AKA Boy,Sledge, and Cheap Bastid)
I doubt there's anything under the tank. It wouldn't be set up like the rear; with a know. It's usually just a collar at the bottom of the spring with what looks like steps; it rotates around the shock body and raises and lowers the spring. Also if you don't see a screw for rebound somewhere near the bottom of the shock, it's probably not there. It would have to be accessible. Removing the tank is a pain, they wouldn't make people do that just to change suspension settings.
Ves (AKA Boy,Sledge, and Cheap Bastid)