Linkage coming off
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Linkage coming off
Hi - relatively new to the forum however I am in love with my 02 R1150R. I do have one issue - twice in the past month the linkage has vibrated off during my ride. Easily fixed with the tool kit and five minutes however; I would like to correct this issue from happening again. Is this a common issue and would some lock tite settle the issue? Thanks for your input.
BCP858,
Sorry to hear your having issues with your RR. What linkage are you referring to? The one that comes to mind is for the shifter, in which case you may be missing one of the small springs that keeps the socket firmly on the ball. The other problem could be a ball and socket that are badly worn. Am I correct in the linkage you were having problems with? Out of curiosity, how many miles are on your bike? I don't seem to recall any 'linkage problems' with these bikes.
Sorry to hear your having issues with your RR. What linkage are you referring to? The one that comes to mind is for the shifter, in which case you may be missing one of the small springs that keeps the socket firmly on the ball. The other problem could be a ball and socket that are badly worn. Am I correct in the linkage you were having problems with? Out of curiosity, how many miles are on your bike? I don't seem to recall any 'linkage problems' with these bikes.
Thanks for your responses. I am speaking of where the oval clamp secures to the small gear coming out of the transmission or gear box. I may not have the parts identified correctly however the disconnect point is directly over the catalytic converter. The attachment comes off, I put it back on, and drive for a few weeks and then it happens again. My bike has 35000 on it. I rode for 3 hours yesterday in the lovely Pensacola Florida sun and it is my daily driver. 
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CycleRob
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You're talking about the aluminum shift arm that attaches to the splined shifter shaft.
You say it keeps coming loose and here's the most common reason why.
When the shifter arm's pinchbolt stays loose for a long time, vibration wears the aluminum arm's female spline out to a larger diameter. If it has been unnoticed for a long time the wear can be so bad that the arm will jump teeth on the spline and expensive parts/labor costs will happen. Usually the bolt falls out before that and then the arm comes off, hanging by the linkage. You'll then put in another bolt, about 90% of the time it's the WRONG bolt in either bolt length, thread length or grade of bolt (too soft).
Where you are now is prolly with aluminum spline wear so bad that the thick casting will not bend enough to tighten or the wrong length bolt with maybe stripped threads in the aluminum. Another bad thing is when the female spline is worn so much that the clamp split tightens down until the gap becomes zero AND the shiftarm is still not tightly holding on the shift shaft spline. The gap can be widened with a file or hacksaw, OFF THE BIKE, so the damaged female spline will be reusable if replacement is undesirable or not possible.
Because of the wide temperature swings coupled with the mechanical stress of shifting, it's a very common problem that's found at service time.
Everyone should check that their shiftarm AND it's pinchbolt is tight -and- that the pinchbolt clamp's slit gap exists . . . . on every bike you own.
You say it keeps coming loose and here's the most common reason why.
When the shifter arm's pinchbolt stays loose for a long time, vibration wears the aluminum arm's female spline out to a larger diameter. If it has been unnoticed for a long time the wear can be so bad that the arm will jump teeth on the spline and expensive parts/labor costs will happen. Usually the bolt falls out before that and then the arm comes off, hanging by the linkage. You'll then put in another bolt, about 90% of the time it's the WRONG bolt in either bolt length, thread length or grade of bolt (too soft).
Where you are now is prolly with aluminum spline wear so bad that the thick casting will not bend enough to tighten or the wrong length bolt with maybe stripped threads in the aluminum. Another bad thing is when the female spline is worn so much that the clamp split tightens down until the gap becomes zero AND the shiftarm is still not tightly holding on the shift shaft spline. The gap can be widened with a file or hacksaw, OFF THE BIKE, so the damaged female spline will be reusable if replacement is undesirable or not possible.
Because of the wide temperature swings coupled with the mechanical stress of shifting, it's a very common problem that's found at service time.
Everyone should check that their shiftarm AND it's pinchbolt is tight -and- that the pinchbolt clamp's slit gap exists . . . . on every bike you own.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
-
CycleRob
- Honorary Lifer
- Posts: 2857
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
- Location: Enjoying retirement in Gainesville GA. USA
- Contact:
I took apart and greased all the pivot points on my rear brake pedal, shift lever and shift linkage ball sockets today. Because of bike washings and a few years gone by, it all needed attention. It was necessary to remove the whole left footrest (4 bolts) for easier removal of the shiftlever pivot bolt. I also reset both swingarm pivot bearing freeplay adjustments, quite easily, without any heat to soften the red Locktite. YMMV. I managed to not put any greasy fingerprints on page 33.21 of my printed out service manual when reviewing the swingarm bearing bolts torque procedure.
bcp858 and anyone else that may remove the BMW shifter arm (on the transmission shiftshaft) -or- the directly attached shifter on some Japanese bikes, be aware the pinchbolt has to be removed from the hole before the arm/shifter can slide off the splined shaft. The bolt passes thru a locating channel cut into the shaft's spline so the arm/shifter won't slide off if the bolt is not fully tightened.
Brian, Thanks for the PM . . . . No problem . . . . you're welcome.
BTW, the 1150R, comparatively, is an easy and fun bike to work on. Especially when compared to any Suzuki Intruder and older ZX model Kawasaki.
bcp858 and anyone else that may remove the BMW shifter arm (on the transmission shiftshaft) -or- the directly attached shifter on some Japanese bikes, be aware the pinchbolt has to be removed from the hole before the arm/shifter can slide off the splined shaft. The bolt passes thru a locating channel cut into the shaft's spline so the arm/shifter won't slide off if the bolt is not fully tightened.
Brian, Thanks for the PM . . . . No problem . . . . you're welcome.
BTW, the 1150R, comparatively, is an easy and fun bike to work on. Especially when compared to any Suzuki Intruder and older ZX model Kawasaki.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--