Trailer Suggestions/Reviews

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

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R4R&R
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Post by R4R&R »

Another trailer option is the Kendon motorcycle trailer; more expensive than a utility trailer but cheaper than having to buy a different tow vehicle! I've seen used ones pop up occasionally on eBay/Craigslist.

Of course, it is pretty unique so you may not get as much other functionality out of it but you could probably use the Honda to tow it and your two bikes.

http://www.kendonusa.com/dual_trailer.htm
John
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GypsyRR
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Post by GypsyRR »

Boxer wrote:Saw it in Alabama at the Stagecoach Ridein

Image

Sorry, I don't have a line on where it came from but you can probably search it our if interested.


COOL!!! A Toyota FJ Cruiser. Or were you talking about the trailer? :lol:

Still hunting and narrowing down the search. Thanks for the tips and suggestions.

I did come across one of those "Toy Hauler" trailers in my search. They are the trailers that have a full camper layout in the front part of the trailer and then room for bikes in the back. If I had one of those, I'd stay gone forever and never look back.
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socalrob
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Post by socalrob »

Sorry if this is totally common knowledge, but I was "backing challanged" before I got the following tip:

When backing a trailer put one hand on the bottom of your steering wheel. To make the back of the trailer go in a certain direction, move your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel (thus turning the bottom of the wheel) in that direction. 100 percent works.

Also - small corrections (turns) are best, & pull forward to straighten out if you are getting things too out of whack, especially before you get the thing "jack knifed".

Take it slow & with the hand on the bottom of the steering wheel you can back up that trailer just where you want it.

I still cannot back a trailer with my hand or hands on the upper part of a steering wheel.
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ASQTec
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Post by ASQTec »

I bought the Kendon Dual trailer last year, and couldn't be happier. It isn't cheap at $2000, but it is made for motorcycles. There's nearly 1100 lbs of motorcycle in the picture below. My Jeep is a 4cyl, 5 speed manual, and 2 wheel drive. I told the dealer what I will be pulling before they happily installed the hitch receiver.

Yes, I have to downshift to 4th when going up a hill, and I've only put about 1500 miles on the trailer, but I've had no issues whatsoever - just check the wheel lugs before you roll ( and make sure you remove your EZ-Pass from the bikes.....doh!!!).

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Biff's R
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Post by Biff's R »

Here is a place in Texas that sells the trailers that pivot. They are called Easy Hauler trailers, and are made in TX.

http://www.pasadenahonda.com/default.asp
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Post by GTR350cc »

If this was said already I apologize for the repeat...

Trailer distance from tongue to axle should not exceed wheelbase of tow vehicle. Trailer axle width should not exceed vehicle track width by more than one wheel width and should not be smaller by more than one wheel width. Exceeding these limits usually requires anti-sway bars.

Trailer brakes are needed when the trailer gross loaded weight exceeds 50% of the total gross truck/trailer weight. Smart to add them well under the limit.

Many states require inspection of all trailers bigger than ????. Check your registration and inspection laws. Some states require CDL for loads exceeding ????. Again, check.
I don't mind paying for mistakes. Can I get a discount?
socalrob
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Post by socalrob »

GTR350cc -

Thanks for the info. I have a 3/4ton 4x4 Suburban with an 8.1L V8 (I use it for family & as a survey vehicle) that has always been great towing. I always keed E rated tires on it.

But one time I towed a looong homemade type very heavy trailer with a decent size tractor on it. I'm guessing that the whole trailer/tractor weighed 7,000++lbs. Within weight limit for my suburban, but I knew I was really pushing it without trailer brakes. I was only going about 30 miles, saving a friend (who had a recent heart attack) some extra late night round trips with his big duelly pickup.

I have a feeling that tonge to axle distance even exceeded my suburban wheelbase. I will watch that in the future. I always thought that a longer (& heavier) tow vehicle worked better, did not know there were parameters not to exceed. The trailer also did not have a brake plug that matched up with my trailer brake thing, so I was going without trailer brakes.

It totally freaked me out when at any speed above 45mph that trailer started whipping the back of my pretty substantial suburban around. And without trailer brakes no fast way to correct it. Goes to show that you gotta be pretty aware/careful if you start cutting corners. Of course seeing my exhausted (after a 12 hour horse vaulting competion day) pasty heart attacked friend looking pretty dejected at the thought of how he was going to get his horses & tractor home, I would probably risk it again.
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Post by coyofmo »

Well I had to get out in the cold today (feels like it will never end here in mid Missouri), and haul a bunch of stuff for a remodel project on a rental, and it required some driving in a snow covered yard and a whole lot of backing and manuvering. Truth be told, until SOCALROB posted above I had never heard about turning from the bottom of the wheel..I tried concentrating on that and I think it really helped. Thanks! Now to find the $ to upgrade to a trailer with brakes!!
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