Newbie R1100R questions

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

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Spookymonster
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Newbie R1100R questions

Post by Spookymonster »

My 2000 R1100r is waiting for me to pick it up at the dealership tomorrow :D . However, I have a few questions that I'm not sure the (non-BMW) dealer will be able to answer:

- What kind of gas does the R1100R use (regular or premium)?

- Is there a trick to getting the kickstand up? Or will I just have to get used to trying to flick it back with my tippy toes :? ?

- Why is there a choke control? I thought EFI eliminated the need for a choke. Do I use it the same way (i.e., open up on cold starts, close when warmed up)?

- Lastly, anyone know where I can get a copy of the owner's manual (I've already got a copy of the service manual)?

Any other tips or tricks for a newbie beemer would be greatly appreciated. TIA!
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Post by threebucks1996 »

You will probably want to use premium. I am not sure about the 1100R, but 1150R calls for minumum of 89. I can tell you these bikes will run better with premium.
The kickstand is easy. Pull backwards on the handlebars while you step heavily down on the centerstand and it will pop right up. I do not weigh very much and apply alot of down force on the centerstand. You may want to be seated on the bike when you take the bike off the centerstand until you get used to the weight. I almost had it tip away from me when I was beside it while I took it down.
Yes the choke is used to start the bike when cold and usually doesn't take about a minute depending on the temp to warm up.
You may try ebay for a manual. There are some guys on here that may have one or could direct you better in finding one.
Enjoy your new bike!!
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Post by TonyT607 »

Spooky where are you located. Which non BMW dealership did you buy the bike from.

I think the manual may have a part number, if so, you can buy it from any dealer, and probably get the 20% off at Chicago BMW.

Max BMW has an online parts fiche for all models:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com

And technically EFI bikes don't have a choke per se. I'm not familiar with the 1100R at all, but the R1150R's have what is really a high speed idle switch, merely the equivalent of opening the throttle a bit. Does NOT alter the air/fuel mixture (i.e. choke off the air). The new R1200 engines don'teven have that; the computer sets the cold idle.

Will you be doing your own maintenance ? If not, and choose to use a BMW dealer, Cross Country in Metuchen is top notch with respect to service. Small shop, but they know their stuff and Brian Donovan, the Svc Manager is a good guy. BMW Manhattan in NYC is also very good, but I've heard they can be pricey.

Let us know how you make out.

Oh, yeah, and post pics.
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Spookymonster
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Post by Spookymonster »

I'm in Bloomfield, NJ. The dealer is Motorcycle Mall in Belleville, NJ.

As far as maintenance goes, I'm fine with the easy stuff (fluid changes), but I'll leave the tricky stuff to the pros. I was leaning towards Cross Country as my 'dealer of choice'... your recommendation seals the deal ;).

Since the fast idle switch doesn't alter the air/fuel mixture, I'm guessing it is used to 1) keep the cold engine from stalling at low temps, and 2) heat up the engine faster?

I'll check out Max. Thanks for the tip.

Just got some good news/bad news from the dealer: my bike won't be ready for pickup tomorrow :cry: - the battery's dying, and they won't be able to replace it until after the weekend. However, they're replacing it with a new one free of charge :) .
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Post by DJ Downunder »

Congrats on the new bike Spooky..... :smt023

re the side stand..you should get in the habit of swinging it up with your toe..all the way up..not just flick it up..letting if slam against the stop.

Just like Tony said..there's no choke...just a fast idle to help stop it stalling while cold.

Good news about the battery...since they are paying for it you should consider buying a battery tender and if it does not already have it..have an accessory socket fitted (that's where the charger plugs into).

DJ
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Post by Spookymonster »

Already got a battery tender (Jr., to be precise) for my current/trade-in ride; the powerlet adapter's on it's way as we speak.

I guess I'll just try toe-ing up the kickstand for now. The problem is, I don't have much of an inseam (30"), so it feels like an awkward stretch. Then again, the seat is still at it's highest setting... maybe it'll be easier when I drop it?
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Post by rph802 »

All good advice from the 1150 brethren.

I also am a rare 1100 owner (for the moment anyway :D ) . Tony is dead on, the fast idle switch above the clutch is basically a non choking choke. I use it all the pressed forward to start from a dead cold then let it spring back to the forward position to fast idle while I pull on the gloves and helmet, a couple minutes is usually more than enough. Just keeps the revs up around 12-1500 to warm up. You WILL almost certainly leave it on and wonder why its idling so fast at the first stop sign or light. Everyone does it sooner or later. just smack your helmet and flip the switch all the way to left and she'll rev normally.

they're a great bike and youll get many years and miles out of her.

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Post by hirsty »

The seat adjustment does make a lot of difference in practice, though you wouldn't tell just by looking at it!

I've tried mine on the lowest setting, which allows me to get both feet just about flat (great for confidence when new) but have now ended-up with it on the highest setting to maximise the distance from butt to footpegs for longer rides - it really helps my knees! Take an allen key with you when you pick it up & have an experiment in the parking area til you are happy.

The fast-idle is only needed for two minutes or so - my handbook recommends moving off as soon as you first start the engine, I usually knock it off after the first two junctions from my house (then double-check it every two minutes for the rest of the ride... :roll: )

Enjoy your new bike, it'll be a lot of fun.
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Manual

Post by dnat928 »

I found the owner manual for my R1150R at this site.

http://ascycles.com/SearchResult.aspx?K ... l&All=True
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Post by Samiam »

hirsty wrote:The seat adjustment does make a lot of difference in practice, though you wouldn't tell just by looking at it!

I've tried mine on the lowest setting, which allows me to get both feet just about flat...it really helps my knees! Take an allen key with you when you pick it up & have an experiment in the parking area til you are happy.
Please tell me all about this seat adjustment thing. I don't think my '05 has one. Does it?
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Post by apaulcopy »

Former R1100R owner ringing in...

The "choke" is really a fuel richener -- does exactly the same thing as turning the throttle a tad. Push all the way forward (on the 1100, down on the 1150) when starting, then release it to return to middle position for warm up. You should shut it off completely after a 1/2 mile or so, other wise you'll be at fast idle next time you stop.

Only the 1100 has the seat adjustment (not the 1150, unfortunately). Unlock the seat, remove it, and you'll see underneath the little round rubber things that hold the front of the seat mounted to a three-step block. Remove a couple of allen bolts and move the block to the appropriate position, replace the bolts.

The kickstand on both the 1100 and 1150 is very far forward compared to most other bikes. Took me awhile to get used to it. As noted by someone else, good idea to move it all the way to the up position with your toe (it's a stretch for me too, but you get used to it).

The R1100R is a very good bike with (in my opinion) some ergonomic advantages over the 1150 -- at least for us "inseam challenged" folk. I always liked the upright "RT style" bars and the fantastic saddle. If only you could swap the 1150 motor and trans into the 1100 frame!

Enjoy!
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Re: Manual

Post by Spookymonster »

dnat928 wrote:I found the owner manual for my R1150R at this site.

http://ascycles.com/SearchResult.aspx?K ... l&All=True
Thanks! They have both the Riders Manual and the Service and Technical Booklet for the R1100 R.
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Post by Spookymonster »

apaulcopy wrote:The "choke" is really a fuel richener -- does exactly the same thing as turning the throttle a tad.
Interesting... I guess they labeled the knob 'CHOKE' to avoid confusing people who didn't know what fast idle was?
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Post by apaulcopy »

I think that's right. If you look down at where the throttle cable meets the butterfly wheel next to the intake, you'll see it turning as you move the "choke" lever -- just as if you turned the throttle. So instead of constricting air flow, it gives it more fuel. At least, that's how I understand it. In any case, it works. But I am always careful to shut if off as soon as I am underway a bit, just to make sure I'm not putting any more fuel through the system than I have to.
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Post by Spookymonster »

Picked up the bike Tuesday night. All I have to say is.... WOW!!! :shock: I've got quite a bit of aclimating to do: torque, throttle response, and brakes are insane compared to my 20-year old 700. I see a week full of MSF exercises in an empty parking lot in my future.... ;)

It was a (mostly) uneventful 4 mile drive home; at one point, I half-ran a red light right in front of a cop car, who then proceeded to follow me for a mile before turning off. Unfortunately, my bike appears to have the surging problem. In 1st and 2nd gear, with the throttle steady, the bike bucked like a bronco almost constantly. At first, I thought it might've just been the cold weather, but reading up further on this forum has convinced me otherwise. This is a 6-year-old bike with just under 3k miles on it; what should be my first course of action? Valve adjust? Disable O2 sensor? Remove Cat Code Plug?
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Post by apaulcopy »

My advice is to do a valve adjust and throttle body syncronization. Even with low mileage, those two things can get out of whack. Even a little out of adjustment can make a big diff in terms of surging. In my experience, having those two things done (get used to it -- it's standard service every 6K miles) should smooth things out a lot.
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Post by Spookymonster »

I'm really leaning towards a TB sync being the root of the problem. When I picked up the bike, the fuel tank was shimmying like a drunk go-go dancer. I asked the tech 'is that normal?', to which he replied 'yeah, twins do that'. At that point, I figured one of us was being ignorant (my '85 Virago never shook that bad, and I know it's carbs were out of sync).
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Post by Not Dead Yet »

At six years old it could be due for a valve adjustment and a throttle sync, however it is more likely you have not yet acclimated to the gearing and throttling of the bike. I personally use first and even second gear only as acceleration gears while on may may up to third which I use as a slow rolling and turning gear. Only in some parking lot cruising situations do I ever cruise even-throttled in 1st or 2nd gear on the Roadster. I find this bike handles turns in third gear (without knocking while accelerating out) better than any of my other bikes which means a lot less shifting in guerrilla traffic situations. I'm sure as you steady your handling techniques and learn the capabilities of the R1150R your gear choice and throttle control will improve in slow roll situations.
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Post by Spookymonster »

Hmm... I'll have to try that, NDY. Hopefully, I'll get the chance tomorrow. It appears the motorcycle gods have decreed that tomorrow will be dry and 50 degrees in NJ. My plan of action is this:

- go to my local top-tier gas station (Shell)

- add a bottle of techron and some shots of Seafoam and Sta-Bil, then fill'er up with premium

- run back to the Yamaha dealership to pick up the manuals: the dealer was kind enough to contact the previous owner and get them, as well as 2 more spare keys, and the compcode (dunno what that is)

- run a few MSF exercises in a nearby abandoned parking lot, mainly figure-eights and weaves, with a few quick stops thrown in for good measure

- open her up for a spin down Route 23 :)

If she's still running rough after that, I'll schedule a valve adjustment/TBS with CCBMW. They quoted me $150 (1.45 hours @ $82/hr).

I'll post back with my results!
2000 R1100 R with 3480 miles... 3481... 3482... 5003...
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Post by Spookymonster »

got to the Shell station today; added 1/2 bottle of Techron, 2 oz. Sta-Bil, and 2-3 oz. of Seafoam. Went to fill it up, only to find that I was already near full with the watered-down salad dressing my dealer calls 'gasoline'. given all the additives I'd already dumped in and the tempature, I figured 1 gallon of premium V-Power would be enough for starters.

Back-roaded down to the dealer to pick up the books. First and second were a little choppy again, right around 3k RPM. Third gear took almost all of the roughness out; fourth and fifth were pure glass.

Took her out on the Garden State Parkway for a few exits, varying my gears so as to work the engine between 3-6k RPM. I am thoroughly impressed with the power of this beast... in my old bike, top gear at 80 MPH felt like I was going to shake her apart, with no room for passing speeds. On the R1100R, accelleration was smooth and eager for more!

Unfortunately, the engine stalled while exiting the GSP to make a U-turn. Idle speed seems pretty craptastic... floating around 900 RPM and threatening to stall, regardless of how warm or cold she was. Still, I shouldn't expect miracles after only an hour or so of running.

If I get a chance this week, I'll double-check the throttle bodies for kinks, maybe even feed'em a cap-full of Seafoam just for good measure. If I don't notice any improvement after a tank or two of V-Power/Techron/Seafoam, I'll bring it in for a TB sync / valve adjustment.
2000 R1100 R with 3480 miles... 3481... 3482... 5003...
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