I have a 99 R1100R with a faulty ABS unit. The first time the lights started flashing the dealer was able to clear the fault but warned me if it happened again it was a $2000 repair job. Of course it happened again. I'm not sure if I want to spend that kind of money on a 7 year old model with 45K on the clock. The dealer advised strongly against getting a used part because they're subject to failure if they have been sitting too long on the shelf.
I asked if the flashing warning lights could be disabled (and I would just live with a non-ABS bike), but he said he didn't think he could do that legally. He also said if it were him he would figure a way to do it.
Anyone had this problem? I still love this bike, but can't see the value of a $2K repair. Anyone have a clue how to disable the warning lights or any helpful comments?
Thanks,
Steve
Faulty ABS Module
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MikeCam
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The Good News
The good news is that that model does not have servo assist tied into the ABS functioning. So a disabled/faulty ABS has no residual effect on braking function.
I'd go non-ABS. But be certain you understand the fluid routing and don't mess with that.
I'd go non-ABS. But be certain you understand the fluid routing and don't mess with that.
The Older I Get, The Less I Know.
This post begs the question, "how difficult is it to convert ABS to non ABS?".
I'm specifically thinking of an 1150 with power brakes. I have often thought that when the bike gets to an age when it would be beyond economical sense to repair the ABS, could I just convert? Obviously you could just pipe direct from the master cylinders to the slaves, but are they the same as non ABS? Could you rip off all the heavy ABS module and what about electrics?
Just thinking aloud - no intention of doing it - I just like planning for all eventualities.
I'm specifically thinking of an 1150 with power brakes. I have often thought that when the bike gets to an age when it would be beyond economical sense to repair the ABS, could I just convert? Obviously you could just pipe direct from the master cylinders to the slaves, but are they the same as non ABS? Could you rip off all the heavy ABS module and what about electrics?
Just thinking aloud - no intention of doing it - I just like planning for all eventualities.
--
Cheers
Barry
Cheers
Barry
Steve,
I would check a few other possible causes first that could stop the ABS system not to activate.
I had the same problem with a 1998 R1100R. The fault was traced to the air gap between the ABS sensor and the ring on the front wheel being too wide. This was a zero cost fix as all I had to do was remove a few shims to close the gap to within tolerance. Note however that newer models come without the shims. The 2001 issue BMW CD manual (R1150R) states the gap should be 0.2 - 1.7 mm for front and rear sensors. Also spin the wheel to ensure the gap between the ring and sensor stays the same. You never know, the ring could be damaged or warped.
Try refering to the Clymer or Haynes manual to see if their is an electrical diagnostic test for the sensor (nothing in the BMW manual). Also check the wiring and connectors for faults. If the sensor is faulty it may be relatively cheap to replace.
Don't forget to check the rear wheel sensor as well.
Will a weak battery cause the ABS warning lights to come on if the ABS unit cannot run its self diagnostics when the ignition is turned on?
In fact from memory isn't the R1100R different to the R1150R (with servo assist). I think the diagnostics test runs in the first two seconds as you pull away in first gear as I remember there was a double clicking sound as it activated. Not sure if this is correct.
Just some simple ideas that may give you a cheap fix.
I also remember the R1100GS had a switch that would allow you to deactivate the ABS system.
Good luck anyway
Mike
I would check a few other possible causes first that could stop the ABS system not to activate.
I had the same problem with a 1998 R1100R. The fault was traced to the air gap between the ABS sensor and the ring on the front wheel being too wide. This was a zero cost fix as all I had to do was remove a few shims to close the gap to within tolerance. Note however that newer models come without the shims. The 2001 issue BMW CD manual (R1150R) states the gap should be 0.2 - 1.7 mm for front and rear sensors. Also spin the wheel to ensure the gap between the ring and sensor stays the same. You never know, the ring could be damaged or warped.
Try refering to the Clymer or Haynes manual to see if their is an electrical diagnostic test for the sensor (nothing in the BMW manual). Also check the wiring and connectors for faults. If the sensor is faulty it may be relatively cheap to replace.
Don't forget to check the rear wheel sensor as well.
Will a weak battery cause the ABS warning lights to come on if the ABS unit cannot run its self diagnostics when the ignition is turned on?
In fact from memory isn't the R1100R different to the R1150R (with servo assist). I think the diagnostics test runs in the first two seconds as you pull away in first gear as I remember there was a double clicking sound as it activated. Not sure if this is correct.
Just some simple ideas that may give you a cheap fix.
I also remember the R1100GS had a switch that would allow you to deactivate the ABS system.
Good luck anyway
Mike