ABS removed, now to reroute the lines...suggestions.

[Soliton]

OK,

The ABS is gone along with removal of the various sensors etc. I also fitted some Brembo callipers that are fully rebuilt.



I am wondering now about re-running the hoses. There seems to be three options:
1 - Dual banjo at the bar
2 - Dual banjo at the right wheel and a line running over to the left hand side caliper.
3 - Dual banjo at this splitter gubbins (under the tank on the right hand side)



I've seen options 1 and 2 done on this board but not option 3

Does anyone have any comment regarding advantages/disadvantages of any of these options.

Regards,

Sol

[riceburner]

Dual banjo at the master-cylinder. BY FAR the easiest to fit, easiest to bleed, and safest to run (it's racing practise for a reason).

I've done it twice (3 times?) now.



The hard-line junction replacement on the side of the frame is a nightmare for bleeding the brakes, get rid of it!

Last time I did the job is documented here :

https://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic. ... 97#p270497

For reference - the reason some racing-formulas say not to use the dual banjo at the caliper (and second line over the wheel) is that if the wheel were to pick up a piece of debris, that debris might (as it rotates with the wheel), damage the brake line. Imagine a large nail being picked up by the tyre, but not stuck all the way in - it could tear through the mudguard, and then tear through the brake line, which would mean you have no brakes at the front. Yes it's a pretty 'out-there' scenario, but I can only assume that it HAS happened in the past, otherwise it wouldn't be a regulation in some formulas. (sometimes these scenarios aren't even imagined until they actually happen).

Also - having the secondary hose going up and over the wheel means you've got a lovely section of hose with no bleed nipple to trap air in..




(btw - you know you asked this last year... https://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=77786 )

[Soliton]

Thanks heaps for that Riceburner,

Sorry for not following the question up on the original posting. When I was contemplating the job I didn't really have my head around the three different ways to re-route the brakes and after I had done it and seen the under tank coupling it threw me for a loop as I couldn't really work out what advantage it offered. I want the simplest option with the least number of points of failure. Certainly looks like a double banjo at the bar and two lines direct is the neatest and simplest option.

Rs,

Sol

[riceburner]

Thanks heaps for that Riceburner,

Sorry for not following the question up on the original posting. When I was contemplating the job I didn't really have my head around the three different ways to re-route the brakes and after I had done it and seen the under tank coupling it threw me for a loop as I couldn't really work out what advantage it offered. I want the simplest option with the least number of points of failure. Certainly looks like a double banjo at the bar and two lines direct is the neatest and simplest option.

Rs,

Sol

The only caveat with it is making sure that you buy the correct double banjo bolt. The Magura master cylinder thread is 'slightly' odd (can't remember which way round it is, but it's either a fine pitch thread where most are coarse, or vice-versa, any decent parts supplier will be able to advise), and if you buy Goodridge parts, remember that the banjo fitting themselves are thinner than OE, so you WILL need new Goodridge bolts for the callipers, and get plenty of thin copper washers in case you need them to space out the double banjo fitting (like I needed to).

The other trick is the cable-tie around the hose ends when you're doing up the bolt on the m/c, if you don't do that, the outer one tends to rotate with the bolt a bit too much (the inner one is held by the lug on the m/c), you want them close, but not touching - remember you need to spin that hose clamping nut down tight, so leave a good 5-10mm or more between the fittings (use your best judgement).

Also - if you're using the GS hand-guards, then you also need to consider how the extra brake hose affects that fitting.

[sweatmark]

Thinking it's time that I apply the Riceburner Technique. Bought the Brembo version calipers and will install this winter.

Also, Soliton tell us what finishing you did for your calipers? Buff? Blast? Re-anodize?

[riceburner]

Thinking it's time that I apply the Riceburner Technique. Bought the Brembo version calipers and will install this winter.

Also, Soliton tell us what finishing you did for your calipers? Buff? Blast? Re-anodize?

One thing I only learnt 'this' time around: the Brembo callipers actually sweep a 'larger' area on the disc.

So - ideally you ought to fit the correct discs for the Brembo calliper (the correct discs would be the ones for the R1150GS Adventure, or any other bike that was originally fitted with the Brembo callipers (obviously).

HOWEVER:
I have never done that, and have never had an issue, BUT, it IS possible to see the 'issue' on this photo:


If you look very closely (click on the photo to go to Flickr for a higher resolution copy) - you will see that the 'scraped' area of the disc (ie, where the pads touch the disc while braking) extends onto the part of the disc that forms the support. (the area that stretches down to the fixing).
That means that a small part of the pad is not engaging with the disc for the entire circumference of the disc, but only where the metal goes down to the fixing.

SOME people might think that this is dangerous. To which I say.... "What about 'wavy' discs, they're exactly the same, (if not worse)" , and thus dismiss their arguments with a light and airy wave of my hand.

What WILL happen is that the pad segment that covers that arc will wear ever so slightly more quickly (because it has an 'edge' of the disc that slides across it like a razor blade). But it's negligible, in my opinion, and more than compensated for by the better braking from the Brembo callipers.

Obviously your own safety is in YOUR hands, I merely with to impart my experience and learning.

[sweatmark]

I always learn something new about R1150 brakes from you! Hence the "expert" moniker.

This caliper/pad/rotor contact thing is interesting. Makes me wish I had photos of F800 brake disc wear pattern, since disc is same as R1150-spec but caliper (Brembo) differs.

Doesn't look like the pad area protruding into inner void is substantial. And the disc mount tabs have gentle radius. Won't prevent me from installing Brembo version calipers.

[riceburner]

I always learn something new about R1150 brakes from you! Hence the "expert" moniker.

This caliper/pad/rotor contact thing is interesting. Makes me wish I had photos of F800 brake disc wear pattern, since disc is same as R1150-spec but caliper (Brembo) differs.

Doesn't look like the pad area protruding into inner void is substantial. And the disc mount tabs have gentle radius. Won't prevent me from installing Brembo version calipers.

I picked up that little nugget of information from Steptoe on UKGSer (a proper expert).

I just try to learn from what i read, hear, and experience, the only expertise i have is in procrastination.

[sweatmark]

Paging Soliton

How did you re- finish your calipers? Polish/Buff? Bead Blast? Re-anodize?

I like the shine, and possibly easier to clean and inspect.

[Soliton]

Thanks guys, the job is done. Dual banjos and uprated discs and pads. Much better feel especially at low speed and it stops very neatly.



You guys probably already sussed this out but the guide bracket on the left hand side works on the right as well, just turn it upside down.



All up I'm super happy with getting rid of the ABS and moving to Brembo callipers.

Regards,

Sol

[Soliton]

Sweatmark,

There are a few steps and a bit of palaver.

1 - Full rebuild (pistons, seal and mounting bolts. Don't split the callipers, they have a notorious tendency to warp and become impossible to re-seal.
2 - The callipers were cleaned and then the lettering front and back was lightly sanded back and polished. Mask around the letters carefully using duct tape.
3- Repaint with black gloss VHT caliper paint, straight over the lettering and then bake it to cure the paint .
4 - Flat the paint work, wet sand and polish. This step makes huge difference to the result.
5 - Then a couple of coats of clear , cure it again, then wet sand and polish using a very fine micro glaze type polish.
6 - Mask around he lettering and remove the paint on the now painted letter surfaces with light wet and dry (1500 works).
7 - Repolish the lettering and clean it carefully.
8 - Repaint over the lettering with a couple of coats of clear and cure.
9 - Repolish the clear coat over the lettering with fine polish.
10 - Wax with Finish Kare 10o0p hi-temperature paste wax.

The callipers MUST be fully clear of fluid. if not even a small amount can bubble out and damage the finish.
Also don't skip the curing, without It he paint doesn't reach its full chemical resistance. Also be careful to poison the callipers so the don't touch anything during the curing the paint. I hung then on wire and cured them using an air fryer.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Sol

[riceburner]

Good stuff, looks good and glad you're seeing a difference in performance.

[sweatmark]

Sweatmark,
There are a few steps and a bit of palaver.
1 - Full rebuild (pistons, seal and mounting bolts. Don't split the callipers, they have a notorious tendency to warp and become impossible to re-seal.
2 - The callipers were cleaned and then the lettering front and back was lightly sanded back and polished. Mask around the letters carefully using duct tape.
3- Repaint with black gloss VHT caliper paint, straight over the lettering and then bake it to cure the paint...

Sol,

Man you worked hard for excellent results.

Recognizing that I wash my bikes 1x/year to check for leaks (plus during post-crash repairs), the prescription for beautiful calipers is a bud pill to swallow. But those Brembo brakes look really good!

Thanks for the info. Rainy cold winter approaches, perhaps a perfect opportunity to follow your example with my 2nd set of calipers in a box.

[Soliton]

Despite all of the palaver I suggest being super careful about painting callipers.

I used the VHT caliper paint and followed the instructions to the letter. I found that I must have had a super slow leak at the banjo on the caliper. Despite its touted resistance to brake fluid it messed up the finish.

I'm not a happy camper.

Rs,

Sol

[riceburner]

Despite all of the palaver I suggest being super careful about painting callipers.

I used the VHT caliper paint and followed the instructions to the letter. I found that I must have had a super slow leak at the banjo on the caliper. Despite its touted resistance to brake fluid it messed up the finish.

I'm not a happy camper.

Rs,

Sol

Yup - brake fluid is highly corrosive - even after you think you've washed it all off too!!