r1150 gs handguards

[sstein]

Received mine today - thank you Radek - but have a question. When mounting, the metal clamp that attaches to the handlebar butts up against the metal tubing that is held by the clutch master cylinder banjo bolt. Because of this, I cannot rotate the handguard down far enough to clear the end of the clutch lever which hits the inner surface of the handguard when the lever is let all the way out.

Is there something i can do to adjust the orientation of the clutch master cylinder assy? Those of you who have mounted these - what is the secret?

Thanks
Steven

[sstein]

Never mind - I just found Beemeridian's excellent instructions with pics. Very clear.

[milehighboater]

I am looking for some handguards for the winter time, where did you pick yours up from? I'm having trouble finding a set that will fit and that arn't "universal".

[sstein]

I found them listed on the Buy/Sell page of this website. 79$ in very good condition.

[sstein]

Regarding mounting these -
I read the thread about whether or not to dremel off the locating tabs for the clutch/brake banjo bolts. I'd like to leave them intact and instead rotate the lines up and away from the handguards. I don't have a dremel or a hacksaw.

My question is - am I likely to introduce air and need to bleed the lines, or is that just a possibility?. I do not have the clutch bleeder venting screw nor do I have the time to deal with bleeding the clutch line right now (soon perhaps) but I would like to get these handguards on ASAP. I am confident enough in my wrenching that I can just barely loosen the bolts without overdoing it.

Thanks in advance.

Steven

[riceburner]

Regarding mounting these -
I read the thread about whether or not to dremel off the locating tabs for the clutch/brake banjo bolts. I'd like to leave them intact and instead rotate the lines up and away from the handguards. I don't have a dremel or a hacksaw.

My question is - am I likely to introduce air and need to bleed the lines, or is that just a possibility?. I do not have the clutch bleeder venting screw nor do I have the time to deal with bleeding the clutch line right now (soon perhaps) but I would like to get these handguards on ASAP. I am confident enough in my wrenching that I can just barely loosen the bolts without overdoing it.

Thanks in advance.

Steven

I wouldn't have thought you'd need to mess with anything on the brake/clutch master cylinder assemblies. Far better (if you must dremel anything) to take material off the hand-guards and their assemblies.

oh - and the 'locating tabs' on the master cylinders are there to help you get the banjo-bolts up to the correct torque without the union fitting rotating too far.

[sstein]

Understood, and that was the debate that was held in the thread - whether better to dremel the hand guards thus weakening them, or to dremel the locating tabs. Either way, it seems to me that dremelling is only necessary to get the brake/clutch lines inside the throat of the hand guards, which I really don't care about.

[riceburner]

Understood, and that was the debate that was held in the thread - whether better to dremel the hand guards thus weakening them, or to dremel the locating tabs. Either way, it seems to me that dremelling is only necessary to get the brake/clutch lines inside the throat of the hand guards, which I really don't care about.

The handguards aren't structural, they aren't carrying anything more than their own weight and they're only designed to protect your hands from thin twigs whipping at you - not tarmac or solid tree trunks!

[sstein]

So whaddya think Riceburner? - can I loosen the bolts and rotate the brake and clutch lines without needing to bleed the lines after? Or would you recommend against that?

[sstein]

Well, the deed is done. I mounted the guards by rotating the clutch line up and the brake bolt down. Pretty much came out ok. Not much clearance between the end of the clutch lever and the inner surface of the guard. I guess I will find out tomorrow if the clutch or brake lines took in any air.

[milehighboater]

how did rotating the bolts go? I was leaning towards carving out the handguards over moving the bolts.

[riceburner]

So whaddya think Riceburner? - can I loosen the bolts and rotate the brake and clutch lines without needing to bleed the lines after? Or would you recommend against that?

Sorry - didn't see this. I'd have recommended against rotating the banjo bolt - but it's relatively easy to bleed that point by just pumping some pressure into the system and then cracking the bolt loose, ensuring some fluid escapes, then tightening it up again quick. Remember to clean up quickly!

[sstein]

Just saw this post. The rotation appears to have gone ok. I don't think any airbwas introduced. The brakes and clutch work same as before. The guards are great. Big difference in riding comfort.

[milehighboater]

I am still on the search for some heandguards for the 1150r and am having quite the time finding some. I can get factory GS guards from BMW for 112.00 but that is a bit hard to justify for two pieces of plastic. So I was looking around and there were a few suggestions for using stock KTM adventure handguards ~34 dollars, has anyone heard of using these or any other brands of guards?

[SteveJJ]

I have Bark Buster Storms on my VStrom. They have a very solid (about 1" by 5/16" looking) aluminum bar that wraps in front of your hand and a nice full plastic wind guard. Protection galore. I was just contacting them about my 03 R1150R and they say their S7 Storm will work. http://www.barkbusters.net/products/155.html They're on my winter project list.

I've hit some bumble bee sized airborn critters that raised welts through my gloves so want some guards. I've also downed the wee at speed in soft sandy soil and tall grass, bent the bar bad, mirror came off the stem, but throttle and brake all good, hands just fine. The barkbuster did its job and only got scuffed a bit. I'm convinced that aluminum bar helped limit what might have been.