Cam Tensioners - both sides?

[fpgirard]

Most of the discussion regarding the R1150R's cam tensioner focuses on the left side (eg. http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Ca ... rSwap.html) but I was curious if it was important to replace the right side's as well. I confirmed that I had the original style (17mm with spring) and just replaced the left side.

Should I also do the right side? Search did find some who have done it.....

Sunbeemer? CycleRob?

Merry Xmas/Happy Holidays to all.

[aborigine]

Hello, men,

Have 2004 R w/18K miles: Hate the "dieseling" noise, so replaced LS and RS cam tensioners, and eliminated "dieseling" noise

at start-up, but noise returns when I'm at full operating temp. Have adjusted valves, synched the carbs w/a Twin-Max, and

smoothed out some vibrations and have the mpg at 50, so it FEELS GOOD throughout the RPM range, but the NOISE IS STILL

THERE AT FULL OP. TEMP. Where do I go next? I already checked the rockers for end play, and they are consistent at 0.006",

so I didn't feel the need to change them. Again, where do I look next? I have also replaced the alternator belt (at 17K).

[acejones]

Some of them do it, some don't. It's a general characteristic of these engines.

[timl]

Yes. When the engine is hot, I get the noise when braking hard and coming to a stop with the clutch disengaged. I can avoid it by braking more gently, when possible. I used to only get the noise in the Summer when the outdoor temperature was hot (80+), but now it occurs even when the temperature is cold (<40).

2004 Rockster with 49K miles.

[fpgirard]

I still have the dieseling sound so I think I'm going to do the RS cam tensioner as well. Replacing the LS did improve matters but I don't have the problem at operating temperatures.

Got my '03 in October 11 with <1300 miles on it - garage princess. Odometer now has over 26,000 miles but I did have several problems (leaking gas lines, clutch slave cyl) that I think were due to idleness...

[Sunbeemer]

Replacing my LH side cam-chain tensioner with the upgrade completely eliminated all disconcerting start-up noises.

Usually only the LH-side tensioner is upgraded because oil drains from it when the engine is not running and since it uses hydraulic oil pressure to apply tension to the chain guide, when the engine is first started again the LH tensioner has no oil in it to pump it up (like a little hydraulic lifter) to press against the chain guide so the chain rattles.

The RH-side tensioner (located underneath the RH cylinder) doesn't drain down like that so it shouldn't let the chain slap except for maybe a brief moment while oil pressure builds in the engine, so it shouldn't be necessary to replace it unless it has failed.

The upgraded tensioner has a stronger spring and no drain hole.

Happy Holidays!

[fpgirard]

Thanks Rich - as always, you've given great advice. Did a big ride this weekend with great weather in the DC/MD/VA/WV area. 720 miles in 2 days - wet roads and gravel but delightful to be out and about....

Here's County Route 3 in WV just north of Elkins:

http://tinyurl.com/c99ebee