Good morning Shakey:
I have my Autocom under the seat to the rear in a small Pelican case. The power feed originally was a 12VDC bus that I set up via a relay for switched power. The bus was fed by a direct to battery line to avoid any contact with the CANBUS system, which can get pissy about some items. The only connection to a CANBUS was the relay coil power attached to the tail light. I recently added a fuse block to replace the original relay because I was installing some additional lighting and wanted to clean up the wiring harness that I had built up over the years.
Since the Autocom has amplifiers in it, there is a possibility of spiking the tail light circuit when high audio levels occur at times, and it can cause a lamp fail fault due to over-current sensing by the computer. This would necessitate a power off on the bike to reset the circuit. Remember that this bike has no fuses!
Your best bet is to wire in a switching fuseblock or set up a small relay for switched power like I originally did. If you do this, solder your connections. I hate crimp-on stuff because it fails and is subject to corrosion.
Switched power schematic (original setup) :
Here is the overall view of the current setup. My Autocom Super Pro Avi is in the Pelican case. The switching fuse block is the box in the center left :
This is the new fuse block. It can be set by the placement of the fuses inside the box to either be switched or constant on for each output circuit. The terminal at the top labled "VT" is the trigger line attached to the rear tail lamp line that tells the box to power up. It is essentially a compact version of the circuit above:
) but I've never done this on a canbus bike before. 
