Fearfully contemplating doing my own valve adjustment

[cswett]

I have a 2004 1150r with about 3,000 miles and it's making an odd mechanical ticking (at least it sounds odd to me) from the left cylinder. Ticking increases with revs. I'm thinking maybe I should try to adjust the valves and see if it goes away before I take it to the dealer for his evaluation. It had a recent TBS.
I read valve adjustment for dummies PDF, so it looks doable, even for a dope like me. I then watched the video from the BMWMOA site where they talked about retorquoing the cylinder heads and checking the rocker arm play. Do I need to do that, too? It has had it's 600 mile service about 4 years ago.
In the video, the tech seemed to breeze through the valve adjustment, where the dummies guys say it's a painstaking but ultimately worthwhile process.
Also, in the video, the tech says you need to mate the indents on the spark plug gasket with the metal that made the indents. While the 'dummies" guys say to rotate the gasket so the indents will not mate and the metal will get fresh rubber to mate with.
Who would you trust in these matters, dummies guys or the video tech?

PS When retorquing the cylinder head bolts, the video guy used something called an angle torque gauge to rotate the bolts an additonal 180 degrees after he torqued them to 20 nm. Is that needed?

Finally, any idea how much that electronic torque wrench used by the video guy costs? That is pretty nifty.

[harveyrawn]

This is only a partial response to your post. I adjusted the valves on my rather recently purchased 2002 1150R last weekend for the first time when I changed the engine oil and filter. I found the 1150's valves easier to adjust than my old R80 airhead, even though the R has twice as many of them. Also, I faithfully torqued the head nuts on the R80 with every valve adjustment, whereas the 1150 apparently only needs it done at 600 miles.

I suggest that you proceed methodically with a good guide like the Clymer manual, and you might be surprised how easy and fast it becomes.

[mnnden]

As for the Valves, I would read up on the "Anton" method, (2 gauge) a lot easier, take your time, it is really a "cake walk" Den

[mistral]

You have no reason to retorgue the cylinder heads. Remember ticking is a good thing as you are going to hear some. Be worried if there in no ticking, too tight not good. Valves are easy, just go slow the first time.

Ron

[boxermania]

Retorquing will not be needed as it should have been part of the 600 mile check. Valve adjustmen is fairly straight forward and I think, based on your post and research, you should breeze through it.

If you have questions, just ask.........

[cswett]

Thanks for the tips. Anton's method looks really good. I'm a little unclear, though. Does he advocate using two feeler gauges only -- sliding one feeler gauge into the gaps for intake and one for outlet valves? Or does he recommend four feeler gauges -- one each for the four valves?

Should I at least check the rocker arms gaps since I'm in there? And does the engine have to be TDC to check those, as well?

[iowabeakster]

As you seem to be very actively studying up on this procedure, you are clearly smart enough to pull this off brilliantly. It is not hard.

Who would you trust in these matters, dummies guys or the video tech?

spark plug gasket: I go with the dummies. You are not going to be able to see the indents (as they are on the far side of the gasket) as they come into contact with the hole. How are you going to be able to tell if it is 1mm or .5mm rotated? I've done the fresh rubber method, with its larger margin for error and had no leaks.

painstaking precision, or breese through: Do what your heart tells you. If you are truly anal, spend a good half-hour on each side, you will sleep well that night. When you get your feeler guages in there, you are goin to find that the valves need only the very slightest adjustment...if any at all. Feel free to not do anything. That is legit too. I just recommend that you do your best to establish a "standard of stiction" on the first cylinder that you do. Then match that standard when you do the cylinder on the other side. If you think that you did poorly, a do-over is just as easy, and will be faster than your first attempt. Just don't overtighten the lock nuts, or the valve cover bolts!!! Those are probably the worst mistakes you could make.

The rocker arm end play, go ahead and check it. You will want to do the rocker adjustment before the valve ajustment. Yep, have it at TDC. Afther checking it...skip it...and proceed to the valves. This motor makes noises, it is normal.

Most of the worst noises are caused by the left-side cam chain tensioner. See if your bike has the newest version...there has been three. The newest one is the same as the R1200R. That will be the most important thing to get rid of unpleasant noise. Or put 10,000 more miles on it and see what you think then.

Good luck

Here's Boxer's cam chain tensioner installation with pictures.
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4657&hilit=cam+chain#p43798

[lionlady]

Thanks for the tips. Anton's method looks really good. I'm a little unclear, though. Does he advocate using two feeler gauges only -- sliding one feeler gauge into the gaps for intake and one for outlet valves? Or does he recommend four feeler gauges -- one each for the four valves?

Should I at least check the rocker arms gaps since I'm in there? And does the engine have to be TDC to check those, as well?

One feeler gauge for intake, one for outlet... They're long enough to fit both at the same time. Works quite well! (DAMHIK, but don't forget to take the gauge out before you bolt the cover back on).

P

[Karmøy]

Who the HELL is this bloke.................

[GT Guy]

I use the four feeler gauge method. It took forever the first time, but man oh man was it worth it ('04 RT). I had sold my first RT ('96) and R (also a '96) because no dealer mechanic could be bothered to do the valves and TBS to my satisfaction. I thought the dual spark engine was the answer, but the truth is a proper super-duper anal retentive valve adjustment is what these engines need.

It's not easy being OCD.

After the valve adjustment, warm up the bike and do another TBS.

And remember, take your time, be careful, don't overtighten.

Michael