Vapor Lock? How to? Cold weather oil?

[bomhour]

I live in chicago and ride a 05 r1150r. bike was running fine until Wednesday when I went to ride it early. the temp outside was about 42 degs. the bike started but after a minute of riding it started to idle spuratically and was all over the place when I hit the gas. I took it home and was not able to get it going again until I read the thread about throttle sync and cold starts. So the temp is back up in the 50's and 60's but the bike is still behaving as it did when it was in the 40's.

I plan to give it an oil change this weekend and would appreciate any suggestion on a good oil for cold riding as I dont have a car and plan to ride when ever possible.

I do not have a fix it manual yet (backorder...sorry) and would like to know how to adjust the 'vapor lock' whatever that is? According the thread "new bike, hesitant to start" my bike is displaying the symtoms of a faulty one?

one more thing I noticed when fussing with the bike was a little rubber cover was missing from the bottom of the round plastic tube that connects the block to air filter...I found the cover on the ground and was wondering if it may be a symptom or cause of my idle troubles.

thanks,
Adam B.

[Airman]

Something is wrong Adam. I ride in the 30s and 40s all winter with no problems like that. I don't know what tube is off your engine, but that does sound like an air leak doesn't it ?

[bomhour]

Airman,

my description of that pipe connecting the head and the air filter was terrible. there is a plastic tube approximately 2" round that appears from below the seat. this 2" tube runs on both sides of the bike. They angles forward and out of the air filter/air intake chamber to meet the engine. Underneath this 2" round plastic pipe is a tiny little nozzle that points staight down, it is only 1/4" of an inch long or so. It is metal and has a little rubber cover. the cover had split and fallen off during a backfire or a sputter. I was just wondering if this nozzle missing it's rubber cover has anything to do with my problem? by the way where do you live and what type of oil do you run in the winter months?

thanks for the reply,
Adam B.
Chicago, IL

[boxermania]

Adam

The rubber plug goes at the bottom of the TB's (Throttle bodies), one on each side. Typically US bikes have hoses that connect to the carbon canister, a black cylinder about 6" long attached to the frame, just below the seat on the right side.

The mere fact that you have plugs on the extensions, tells me that you or the prior owner performed removed the carbon canister.....and yes the plug, or better yet, a leak or the absence of the plug can cause the symptoms you have been experiencing.

Pick some rubber plugs at the Auto Parts store and replaced both sides, while you are there pick up 4 qts of 5W40 or 10W40 oil. I suggest Castrol GTX, but any brand name oil will do.

BTW, vapor lock is a phenomena that occurrs primarily during hot wether and is the result of gasoline boiling in the lines and the vapor preventing the liquid from reaching the carburator. This was very common in carburated engines as the fuel pressure is very close to atmospheric, much less of a problem on FI engines as the fuel supply is at a higher pressure (typically 43 psis) and prevents the fuel from evaporating aftre the engine is shut off. (the presure will decrease but will still prevent vapor lock, that is, if all the fuel system components are operating at design)

Keep us posted on your findings.....

[Boxer]

Yeah. Al is right. Put the little TB condoms back on.

[boxermania]

Phil,

I'm shocked!!!! remember to attend church on Sunday and no libation afterwards.......

[Airman]

Airman,

my description of that pipe connecting the head and the air filter was terrible. there is a plastic tube approximately 2" round that appears from below the seat. this 2" tube runs on both sides of the bike. They angles forward and out of the air filter/air intake chamber to meet the engine. Underneath this 2" round plastic pipe is a tiny little nozzle that points staight down, it is only 1/4" of an inch long or so. It is metal and has a little rubber cover. the cover had split and fallen off during a backfire or a sputter. I was just wondering if this nozzle missing it's rubber cover has anything to do with my problem? by the way where do you live and what type of oil do you run in the winter months?

thanks for the reply,
Adam B.
Chicago, IL

Adam,
I live in the south suburbs of Seattle,WA. I can ride nearly all winter here, I draw the line when I find ice on my bike after work as there are a lot of hills and the like here. Typical temperatures will run in the high 30's, low 40's. I have been running Castrol GTX 20-50 year round, but I had a few slow cranking moments last winter that troubled me so I will be changing to Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic next change. Sounds like the other brothers have solved your problem.

[bomhour]

Boxermania, thanks for the confirmation regarding the air leak and for the oil recommendation. I am a mechanic by necessity not by want. I would much rather be riding and today I was able to ride, but only after much renching.

I first replaced the battery which needed to be done. then I replaced those little rubber vacuum plugs, both sides (no problem). next I replaced the oil to Castrol 10w 40. I also added a little carb cleaner to a full tank. The bike is running better now. Its starts, with a little backfire, but runs pretty well. I am going to church tomorrow and no liberation, I mean, no libations afterward . My wife always appreciates that.

In a couple of weeks I think I will attempt to change the plugs and adjust the valves. I think that this will get her back to tip top. My backorder fix it manual should be here by then. So expect to here from me around the first weekend in November.

thanks again,
Adam B.

[boxermania]

bomhour

The one thing that will significantly affect the operation of the Boxer engine is the sync/balancing of the idle and theTB's. (throttle bodies) Do you have a Hg manometer or similar device?

[bomhour]

Boxermania,

No. Do you have a link for the device?

I did perform a proceedure which I was told would sync the TB... It involved removing the TB fuse for 1 minute, returning the fuse, keying on the ignition, then full throttle on twice? I did not notice any changes after these steps. Later in the day when I was at BMW picking up a part, I asked on of the mechanics what the proceedure was for sync'g TB? He went on a length run about sensors and what have you. I got sleepy and left. When I woke up I realized that the proceedure I had done was not enought to be considered syncing the throttle bodies.

[Biff's R]

The best oil in my opinion for cold weather is Castrol Syntec 5W-50. Easy on startup, and warms up fast. Noticable better on cold starts than the Mobil 1 15w50.

[boxermania]

bomhour

What you did with the throttle on and off was to let the ECU knows the limits of the TPS (throttle position sensor) and has nothing to do with the TB's sync.

You need to do a search on this site, for the Idle and TB's sync procedure, I would write it out for the upteenth time, but being Sunday I'm lazy today.....but I'll do something else. I'll give you two links to an inexpensive, under $4 manometer so you can get started.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Manom2.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Manom1.jpg

Good luck and let us know how you made out.....

[NoRRmad]

Boxermania,

No. Do you have a link for the device?

I did perform a proceedure which I was told would sync the TB... It involved removing the TB fuse for 1 minute, returning the fuse, keying on the ignition, then full throttle on twice? I did not notice any changes after these steps. Later in the day when I was at BMW picking up a part, I asked on of the mechanics what the proceedure was for sync'g TB? He went on a length run about sensors and what have you. I got sleepy and left. When I woke up I realized that the proceedure I had done was not enought to be considered syncing the throttle bodies.

This is the procedure for resetting the fuel-mixture computer. It shows the computer the limits of the throttle position, closed to open, and has nothing to do with a throttle-body sync. The sync is a common topic here. A "search" should yield pages on the procedure.

[Airman]

The best oil in my opinion for cold weather is Castrol Syntec 5W-50. Easy on startup, and warms up fast. Noticable better on cold starts than the Mobil 1 15w50.

What kind of temperatures are you talking about here ? My start problems were more related to the failing stock battery than the oil. As lomg as the battery could give me 3 or 4 turns even the 20-50 would start ok. My trouble came in the mid 30's. Perhaps if you coupled the heavier oil with a short commute there wpould be an advantage to the lighter oil. Is the Syntec a full synthetic ?

[Biff's R]

I was good all the way down to 20F. That is the coldest temp I would ride in. With the fast idle on, the bike was starting on the first try.

[philbytx]

One excellent "winter" oil for our bikes is Shell Rotella 15w40 or, better still, Rotella T (synthetic) 5w40. It's for diesels but contains higher concentrations of ZDDP, which BMW AG likes

[bomhour]

Boxermania and the Gang,

I built my manometer and got a decent result, I think. I removed the BBAScrews and cleaned them being careful to note the original position. I shot the hole with a bit of WD 40, returned the BBAS to their original location and started my TB Sync. I took her for a ride and it was much better than before. However I still have a little studder in my idle, on the road and on the meter, but the sync got rid of most of the throttle slop or throttle studdering. Still the bike is not nearly as smooth as it was before all of this started. I did not play with the throttle cable length adjustment. Is the throttle cable adjustment just for fine tuning?

I am thinking about doing a valve adjustment, my first time! does anyone have a link to a good dvd guide. I have heard there is one out there. I found this link http://www.cyclenutz.com/products/brand ... e_dvd.html ???

Any advice is appreciated,

[philbytx]

Don't go nuts trying to get a perfect idle if your TB synch has it running perfectly from off idle and right up through the rpm's. If your BBS's are about the same turns out and the bike is running great from off idle up, a slight movement of your tacho at idle isn't anything to worry about.

WD40 won't clean the BBS's or ,indeed, any TB part as well as a proper cleaner. WD40 is good for paint and removing tar but it's not a true cleaner.
I use CRC MAF Sensor fluid to clean the TB's and it is plastic safe!
Don't forget to check your BBS seals, if they are in good condition, a little Petroleum jelly on them helps.

[bomhour]

Phil,

I rode the bike this morning. Once it got warmed up it was backfiring a lot and vibrating and doing all kinds of surging. I did notice the TB work I did last night but it's clearly not the source of my problem. I am working on gathering the tools and information needed to do the valves and plugs. I'll get back to you guys when I finish the work.

thanks for your help.

[philbytx]

One thing....make suie that your RH throttle cable nipple is firmly in the adjuster and not resting on the lip!!