hi all,
i've had some problems with my 94 r1100r recently, vibrations in high revs and overall decrease of performance. i gave it to a bmw to do the valve clearance and throttle body sync but was not satisfied with the result. basically they just take money and treat me like dirt there, so funk them. i got me a twinmax and decided to see what was going on.
in idle the needle stayed at zero , but when i rev up, it went right a lot (twinmax on maximum sensitivity of course). then when i let the throttle go, the needle goes left a lot, finally coming back to zero. when driving in low gear in around 3000 revs the needle tends to stay right on the scale (about 2 to 3 on the twinmax scale) when i rev up and drive on 4000 and more revs it centers around zero though. other things is that the big screws for throttle body sync adjustement (BBS

) have a large difference of more than 180 degs. so there's a lot going on. i also played with the throttle cable lenght, namely the one that goes from the left butterfly to the right, hence influences the timing sync between the two cylinders. i read turning it more than 1/4 turn influences other things that need consideration, which i do not know about. i did turn it a few turns, so i guess a need to find out what is being influenced. anyone knows? namely, is there some electronic settings that are influenced and, for example, need to have a reading in a specified range, so that when i change it too much (the cable lenght) the electronics have a false reading and go berserk or something? or is it just about the two butterflies moving the same simultaneously? (without hidden electronic traps i mean). i notice that the bmw people also changed the cable length in the same direction as i did, jut not so much. i find that after my tweaking it the bike goes smoother, likes to accelerate more, and i like it better. the vibrations didn't really go away though. i didn't change the BBS position much, the difference is now a bit less than it was before. the "go to right on throttle blip" behavior is still there, "go left on release" too, just as "stay right on low rev riding". it is an old bike, and it was my first time doing anything to it myself, so i do not have much experience, so i would appreciate any input from you experienced tweakers:) did i do some terrible things to my bike ? i'm mainly concerned with some possible electronic considerations.
plus , a bit unrelated, i remember reading somewhere that when removing or changing the exhaust loop chip in the fuse box one has to "reset" the system every time a change is being made, by removing some additional fuse/chip. or something. i did take the chip and changed it to another a few times, but didn't reset anything. so i'm concerned about that one too.
sorry if it seems like it doesn't make much sense sometimes, i'm really tired right now, but have the urge to find out as soon as i can

thanks a lot, cheers!