2008 Summer Journey

[1MPH]

Thanks for all of your reports Gypsy. Been enjoying the read.

+100

[Dr. Strangelove]

Misread this at first as "Dr. Luve."

no pictures of Bill? sounds like quite a character.

enjoying it Miss Gypsy.

John

[sweatmark]

Mrs. Sweatmark and I just made room on the coffee table for your book, Gypsy. We'll plunk down the extra cash for an autographed copy, of course.

[Sunbeemer]

Very fancy photo work, Ma'am. Those are some Great old cars from the age of Detroit Iron.
BTW, if you can climb Pikes Peak, you'd enjoy the ride (and we'd enjoy the pictures!) I think it's all paved now.
Good luck wherever your journey leads.
Tight lines!

[GypsyRR]

Thanks. The colors on the old cars is what draws me to them. I don't really know anything about old cars, although I'm sure Paul and Glenda in Arkansas think I should know a lot more now, after he spent the afternoon explaining it to me from his books. It's just the color and the idea of them rusting in fields that attracts me.

I don't think I'll be at Pikes Peak. Too crowded and touristy. Not my thing. but I did do Independence Pass and the continental divide. Here's that part



After my night in the parking lot and then doing some work, I moved the truck and trailer to the city park and unloaded the BMW R1150R with the help of a man who was picnicking with his wife there for the day.

I set it up for a day ride and possible stop for fishing. I got a late start after not much sleep then past few nights and especially in the parking lot. Then doing some work and posting in the motel lobby where I was bumming some wifi ate up some of my day, as well as moving to the city park. So when I finally got away, I knew I would be short on time again. Once I settle somewhere, I think I’ll finally feel like I did everything I wanted to do in a day and didn’t have to leave anything undone. Maybe.

But first - I needed to go to the Continental Divide at Independence Pass, so I left the park




Then headed north on 24.









Ascending - and things are looking better!!!






Moving on into the San Isabel National Forest and I start to see snow in the distance. I think I’m headed that way!!!





The Arkansas River is at my right as well as some rail road tracks. I think it is right about in this area where I saw a sign stating “Old Stage Coach Road” - and it looks like a pretty cool dirt road. But I don’t know anything about it. Can someone tell me where it goes and how it is for a lightweight on a DR650?






I stopped in Granite at this little store for a snack and some coffee and to put another layer on. I was getting cold again already.




The sign on the pump amused me when I imagined that people would drive up and actually assume that gasoline was really only $2.13 for unleaded when it was selling for over $4.00 everywhere else. Two signs, ought to make sure they understand, right?



After the little stop in Granite, I started watching for 82 that would take me northweset over Independence pass toward Aspen.

Found it:



Seeing the snow, knowing I’d be up there soon, and feeling the temperatures dropping, I stopped again to put on glove liners. I know I was smiling to myself inside that helmet all the way. I was so excited to be climbing up to the Continental Divide.

But first - Twin Lakes. Yes, - the sky was really that blue, and the lake reflected it just as blue. It was stunning.




I wanted a closer look.



And soon the road turned to dirt, and my smile grew.





I parked and walked around a bit, but it was a weekend and things were starting to get kind of busy there with lots of cars/trucks traveling kind of fast down this dirt road. I just felt like moving on and getting to the pass.


Where I was:



Now back on track



Passing through the town of Twin Lakes. The Arkansas River is flowing really fast along this stretch. Solid white water at places. It was beautiful.









They variations of shades of green was spectacular along 82. I know I’m headed to Independence Pass, but I’m not sure where it’s going to pass through this range. I’d love to know though.





Hand holding the camera - not the best solution, but all that is left since the other point and shoot is gone now.






Eventually a valley emerges and the Arkansas River has flattened within the valley snaking it’s way to another rapid descent. This was a good fishing area. I stopped along here for a few minutes. I saw a KLR loaded and parked in the same area and assumed the missing rider was probably fishing these waters.



You can see the water on the right winding it’s way through the valley while the road continues up ahead and starts it’s steep ascent.




Switchbacks are fun





A look back at the road and the river





Still climbing. The drop off on the descending side is pretty severe. I could see how it would be easy to go over too, because the view below is incredible, and we all know our bikes go where we are looking.



And then…………….. it happened ......... WHOA!!!!







Just kidding. :lol3

I was trying to hurry and get the camera out of my pocket so I could get this shot before I passed by it. Cool, huh?




See that little pull off to the right in the picture? I made note of it and planned to stop there on my way down to try to shoot a better photo of the little waterfall above. It was just a dirt turn off on a descent, with a high price to pay if I couldn’t control the bike in a stop on dirt. Looking at it from this angle, it did not to appear to be as steep as it was when I eventually did stop there on the way back down. I think it was the first time I felt like I might break a sweat. And putting a pull out just around the corner from oncoming traffic, might not be the best place for the road engineers to put one.



And now the snow pictures. The first time my BMW has “seen” snow.









Below me. This was a hard shot to get while riding, and you can see there is no place to pull off - but you can see a bit of the road I just climbed.



I had to get the snow bank shot. Taller than my bike - that’s my mirror in the lower right corner




And then I’m there. And how nice that there was a spot right by the sign for my bike!!!




I must have taken photos for at least a dozen people standing in front of the sign with their point and shoot cameras. I was tempted to put my tank bag at my feet and open it, for a tip jar. I could use the extra cash about now. I was too shy to ask any of them to take my picture there. I did have some neat conversations with various people I was photographing.




Look SNOW!! (this for my climate challenged friends back in south Texas)




This guy was not wearing any pants!!!!

..


Just shorts






This one wears nothing at all!!!!


..


And he’s a little unsure about the white stuff. I was a little unsure about the yellow stuff under him.




For DJ




So after playing photographer for a dozen groups of people, I drank the cold coke and decided to turn around so that I could check out a couple of spots for camping along the Arkansas River below.

Typically, one of the many mottos I live by is, “Never return ‘home’ by the same route when you left.” But, my options were limited at this point. The nice thing about mountain scenery though is that it really looks completely different going the other direction. You miss a lot by not being able to look over your shoulder while navigating a bike on twisty roads. So the trip down by the same route was just as pleasurable and still held beauties I had not yet seen.






another switchback!!!



And here is that pull off. I’m off the road as far as I can safely go because of cars coming around the turn just behind me.




I got the waterfall again thouogh





Soon I was out of the snow and back among the aspens.






I found a nice place along the Arkansas river for camping which I would use later









But back to the truck first.











Some other things I did while in this area:

Fished here





Spent some time along here, watching and reading.















Gettin’ kind of close to the rocks isn’t he? I couldn’t do this sport. Nor whitewater rafting. I need more control then just surrendering my life to the whim and power of the water.







and some times just for photos as well






Soon, it was time to move on again.

[slant]

An excellent and excellently illustrated ride-report, Miss Gypsy !
What amazes me however, is , where and how you find the time to take all those
neat photos,write notes ...... AND ride your bike, make camp,talk to people etc.
Multi-tasking,perchance?

Totally enjoyable report and deserving of admiration and applause.

[Ves]

Hear hear....

[GypsyRR]

I just wrote a whole report and got logged out and lost it all. I need to get on the road. So this will be fast. I have to hurry.

Trying to get caught up now.

I'm Arizona presently, and heading northing in a few minutes. But I need to get caught up because there will be lags between wifi for a while again after today. I can't upload photos and copy/paste with the iPhone, so I have to have access to wifi on my computer to write a report. So here we go.

After the exciting days in Buena Vista, which really was a beautiful place, I headed south on 285/17 to Alamosa.



You can see, once I hit 17 - there was a wide expansive flat valley with a long straight road enveloped in lot of dust and not much more.

The towering Sangre De Cristo Mountains to the east stayed with me, like a friend walking with me to the edge of town. It was hard to leave the mountains, but I had to head back to Texas to take care of a couple of matters quickly.



Although the mountains flattened and the roads straightened, I still saw things that captured my attention and caused me to take note and imagine.





That last shot of the farmer and his son or maybe it was his grandson is only 1 of about 6 I took. In each photo that little boy it staring back at me taking a photo of him. Each time the tractor turned at the end of the row, he would strain to keep a focus on me while I was trying to focus on him. I'm sure he wondered why on earth would I find something so interesting about his world.





And I found this - the oldest church in Colorado. It's near Antonito in Guadalupe.




I wouldn't have seen those, had I not been looking for the Great Sand Dunes National Park.................... which is not a hard place to find. They are huge!!

Somehow, I've lived this long without realizing there were sand dunes this large in Colorado. In fact they are the largest sand dunes in North America. I had no idea. But growing up in Texas.......... well, if Texas can't claim it, then we just skip over that part in history or science. :rofl

Rolling down 17, things were pretty flat and then got kind of boring at times.





So, when I came upon the brown road sign announcing the Great Sand Dunes National park while rolling through the San Luis Valley, I had to stop. But it was getting late, so I went into Alamosa to find a place to stay for the night, and then came back the next morning to check out the Sand Dunes.

It really is a contrasting picture to see these dunes in juxtaposition to the Sangre De Cristos which they lay up against. On one hand you have the green mountains with rock outcroppings and snow still at the top, and then stacked up against their base in a misplaced fashion, there are these gigantic piles of sand. I tried to get some good perspective shots, but it's difficult to comprehend the juxtaposition or their size without seeing it in person.

To quote one little 7 or 8 year old boy I overheard speaking to his mom as he ran toward the Dunes, "This is the best darndest National Park I've been to so far. And Mom, I've seen a whole lotta parks now!!" :rofl
Here is a link that explains in detail why these sand dunes are here if you are curious about it. How Did the Sand Dunes Form


From a distance and then getting closer, here's what you see









Here's what was cool. I could stand in one place and look south/southwest and see this:



Then I could turn and face north/northwest and see:



And then turn north/northeast and see this:



All three of the above photos were taken from one spot. Pretty amazing diversity right there!!!


Once in the parking lot, I met Luna - getting her pink shoes put on for the hot sand.



You have to cross the Medano to climb the dunes. Some people were almost to the top. Zoom in and you might find them. And others were sliding on sleds and snowboards down the sand dunes. Too far for my 200 mm camera lens to catch them though. Others chose to stay and play in the water.









Once across, this is what you'll see.



Turn around and this is what you see:



And now the Dunes:



















And almost to the top



I believe this is the highest point.




Okay - I need to hit the road. Leaving Arizona today.

[1MPH]

Reading your posts and looking at the pictures (beautiful by the way).

All I can think to say is "WHAT A COUNTRY".

[Dr. Strangelove]

Gypsy Lady

The right hand side of some of the recent posts are clipped. Nothing is visible to thr eright of "2K."

JOhn

[taosports]

Gypsy Lady

The right hand side of some of the recent posts are clipped. Nothing is visible to thr eright of "2K."

JOhn

John,

It's your browser window...just grab the bottom corner and stretch it wider. I'm assuming your screen is wider than 12"

[Dr. Strangelove]

full screen browser, the rest of the frame is there, just the image is clipped at c2K

This is an example

[Dr. Strangelove]

never mind

showing up fine at home; workplace issue

John

[taosports]

Your example looks fine to me John. Here's a screenshot :


Again, I think you need to grab the bottom right corner of your browser window (see circled area on screenshot below) and move it to the right.

[GypsyRR]

Haven't had a chance to read any of the other great reports coming in. I will when I have some extra time. Just sneaking in to post an update from time to time


Here's the latest: I was in Mesa Verde yesterday, and I think I'm heading east today, but maybe north depending on weather. I need to check that.


After the Great Sand Dunes, I had to go back to Texas briefly to take care of a couple of matters before I could pick up a bike I bought in Arizona.

I took some new routes I had never traveled before. One of the best was NM 514 from Taos, NM to Las Vegas, NM. Beautiful, empty, mountain winding road for 77 miles before it drops into a the beautiful Mora Valley. I landed in the valley at sunset after a light shower during that day, so everything was glistening a golden color. It was great. Here are a couple of road pics from 514.





I also saw the Rio Grande Gorge for the first time. Here it is.



Finally, I was able to leave again Wednesday morning. I left from my parents house in Midland, Tx. And of course, my mother always is thinking of me, so she sent me off in style!! (had a few before realizing I should share them with you. Sorry)



From Midland, I headed west toward Kermit and then to Orla and then into the Guadalupe Mountains before hitting El Paso. There is NOTHING, NOTHING, NOTHING between Midland and El Paso going that direction. Maybe a couple of tiny tiny towns, but nothing more. I did stop in Orla for this photo because it sort of describes the whole scene west of Midland:

The sign is right! But the sad thing is that the grocery store has been shut down for a while now! As is the cafe next to it.





At least once you get past Orla, the terrain does start to rise and fall a bit



But until you get to the Guadalupe National Park, there is not much else to see. It was drizzling and raining and foggy and humid when I got there. But El Capitan was still just as majestic.







Finally in El Paso, about out of Texas. It takes forever to get out of Texas and only parts of it are enjoyable to drive through. But once on I-10 in El Paso I hit traffic and then a detour caused by this over turned semi blocking most of 10. I think I spent an hour trying to get through El Paso.



Then a run through southern New Mexico which was quick, but in rain 75% of the time. This stuff is not fun with a trailer when the wheels start dragging through that standing water.



Finally, I hit Arizona and started north at Lordsburg on 70. 70 into Globe and then 60 into Mesa may have been one of my favorite roads so far. I liked the towns of Duncan and Safford too. Both really nice settings and nice roads all around them.



somewhere around Safford







I think this was coming out of Duncan.

Looking behind me.



Looking ahead





But it was 60 from Globe into the Phoenix area that was really incredible. Just a couple of shots from that road. I look forward to riding 70 and 60 again one day.








I arrived in Chandler around 8:00 pm. Met the owner of the bike, saw the bike for the first time. It was more than I had hoped for. He helped me take the DR off, so the new bike could sit up front next to the R1150R, so the weight would be more evenly distributed. Then we loaded the DR back center. It was too dark to take photos that night. These were taken Thursday or Friday. I can't remember. I didn't sleep Thursday night, so those two days are running together for me. I did finally get some sleep last night, so now I'm ready to hit the road again.

Here's what I picked up:



So I'm almost caught up on reports. Just 2 days behind now. An incident at a gas station in Tuba City Thursday night kind of shook me up. Then another trailer problem I discovered while crossing the Navajo Reservation between 1am - 4am delayed me again. I think things are squared away now, so I'm heading out again. Unfortunately, probably through rain again.

[sweatmark]

Great travelogue. Thanks. The rain shot reminds me of pulling a similar trailer across Kansas on deeply rutted I-70: the dual lane ruts were brimming with storm water, and the trailer would hydroplane/slide or drag/lurch, depending on its mood. A nasty half-day's drive.

So, are we losing the Gypsy to the ADV crowd? By some accounts, the allure of the R12 bikes - especially the GS - is sufficient to sour our R1150R loyalties... guess that's why I refuse to test ride the R1200GS.

[GypsyRR]

I have been thinking about a big GS for a long time, to replace the RR and DR. Then I would add a 225/250 for real dirt riding. The 1200 GS could possibly be a feasible replacement for two bikes - if it handles the road like my RR does. It's been a constant nagging in the back of my mind. So I've been watching for a used one for about 3-4 months and seeing how fast they sell and how much they go for. Twice, one was bought out from under me while I was waiting for answers from sellers. So....... I stumbled upon this one, and after watching them for 3-4 months realized this was a good deal. Pristine condition. '05 11,500 miles. ABS (not a fan, but can learn to appreciate them, I'm sure), Spoked wheels, alarm system, cyl head guards, set of unused knobbies as well as only 1000 miles on the street tires. upgraded to GSA windscreen, AND, the 12,000 mile service was already done. So - for the price, it was a good deal. And I figured, I could finally put this demon to rest. If I decide I just can't part with my RR (which would be very, very hard to do), then I've not really lost anything. So far, I've not taken it on technical roads, because I want to get use to the ABS, and the bike on more tame roads before tackling these Colorado canyon roads. But, it actually rides much like my RR so far. The only thing I don't like right off, is the fact that the instrument panel and windshield do not turn with the handlebars. That always takes some getting use to. I did the same sort of thing when I was really wanting a K1200R. I needed to put that desire to rest too. But didn't have the money to buy a K1200R at the time. However, I found a FZ1 underpriced. Bought it. Rode it for 4-5 months and decided I prefer a 2 cylinder engine in a motorcycle, so never was tempted with the K1200R again.

So - we'll see. I rode my RR yesterday through a canyon and just still love it so much. In Ridgeway, Colorado today. Working and paying bills at an internet cafe. Then on the road again this afternoon. I am 3-4 reports behind. I can't wait to show you Mesa Verde. Soon.

[GypsyRR]

Trying to catch up again. I'm 3-4 reports behind again, and so I'm sitting in an internet cafe finishing up some work and thought I'd add this part. But, I've been nodding off in this place as I have been trying to work, so only a short report now and then I need to get on the road, or they may throw me out of here!!!

Here are just a few photos from the trip from Phoenix to Cortez, where I saw the sun rise after driving all night across the Indian Reservation. It was while I was crossing the Navajo Reservation when I realized the lights on the trailer were not working. The bikes on the trailer pretty much cover up the lights on the truck. But it was already after 3:00 a.m. when I discovered the problem, and there was no place for me to stop and have someone look at it.

I stopped for a few minutes at the old bridge at the entrance to the south rim of the Grand Canyon before continuing on to Colorado. The sunset was great!!

There are cows down there in the canyon looking for a watering hole.






The bridge:



What is cool, is that I watched the sun go DOWN there, but then drove through the night across the reservation watched the sun RISE - outside Cortez. I was trying to get to Cortez to get the trailer lights fixed - but I stopped for a while outside just to watch the sun rise over the mountains. it was great - even though I was sooooo tired. I think they call that first rock formation "Ship Rock"









Short report this time - but I'm falling asleep in this cafe! I need to move on.

Next - Mesa Verde.

[Airshaft]

Kristi congratulations on your new purchase, I’m sure you will love it. Once you get used to the higher stance and longer suspension travel you’ll probably realize that it handles as well as your R1150R if not better as long as the bike is not too tall for you and weight wise 1200 GS I don’t think is any heavier than R1150R, if anything it could be a bit lighter.

Last year I had a chance to ride my buddy’s 1200 GS down at Deals Gap which totally blew me away (and few sport bikes, ). I chose the R1200R over GS because I don’t do much off-road and at some point plan on adding a GS800 or soon coming out KTM 690 adventure for the specific off-road adventures. From the riding you’re doing I think you’re on the right track with the GS and a smaller dirt bike.

As always, awesome reports….safe riding


The Dalmatian

[mamato]

GypsyRR,

I am new here but I always read your ride reports with great anticipation. Your pictures are beautiful and your a really good writer.
On a recent trip to Arizona, I rented a 1200GS for the weekend and rode from Phoenix to Sedona. I loved the GS. At first I was a little intimidated because of the size but once I was on it and riding for a couple of miles I loved it. I probably shouldn't say this here but I thought it handled a little better than my RR. The RR seems to want to fall into the turns, where the GS was so smooth. And for a big bike I was surprised at how well it did in the twistes. So now I'm looking for one myself. I think you will enjoy yours.

Anyway be safe out there and keep the reports coming.