Hello All!
This is my first post to this forum. I just bought an '04 1150R with 18K on the clock. Non-ABS model. Took it for a test drive and love the bike - had to have it.
Left it at the dealer to get its 18K service and get a new rear tire put on. Also, new rear brake pads. Picked it up Yesterday, drove it home, and noticed that I had no Brake lights. Checked the fuse - it's ok. Checked the bulb - BOTH filaments are always burning. Seems like the switch is always on, but how? Front brake seems a little tight, but front wheel will spin on the centerstand with very little drag. Any ideas?
Congratulations on your new bike and welcome to the site, I'm sure that you will enjoy your new bike.
Regarding the brake light, if both filaments are burning, either the front brake switch or the rear one are activated. The easiest way to find out is to locate the switch, as it is actuated by the brake lever up front and the foot lever for the rear and disconect the power to it. If the "bright" filament goes off that means that the switch is either defective or the brake lever is out of adjustment.
However, if you just purchased the bike from a dealer, I suggest you take it back and have them correct the problem....they should not have sold the bike with the problem.
Good luck and post some pics......
Member #312
06 Suzuki Burgman 650 "state of flux"
79 CBX
I had a similar problem. With me it turned out that it was the front brake switch. You can access it by removing the underside cover of your right side switch gear. It has a small lever on it, which presses on a tiny button. The lever was bent in such a way that even when the brake lever wasn't squeezed, the switch was actuated. I had to remove the switch to mess with it... it's tiny... it's a pain.
First thing you should do is figure out if it's your rear brake switch or front. You'll have to disconnect one of the wires from either the front or rear switch. (It's been almost a year since I did this so details are a bit fuzzy.) If you disconnect one, and the problem is still there, then disconnect a wire from the other switch. If both switches have one wire disconnected and the problem is still there, then you'll have to start tracing wiring to find where the electricity is coming from cause it's not going through the switches. Are you good with a voltmeter?
I had this happen to me once, and it turned out to be the rear brake switch. The stop bolt had worked its way in to the point where it wasn't making contact when the pedal was up. The bolt presses against the switch contact to turn off the brake light. Easy to fix.
Just wanted to update those who responded. Fixed the switch myself and then went on a 100 mile "test drive." Also, installed Moto-Technique risers. (I'm not the tallest gorilla in the valley) I was a bit ambivalent about cutting the ties to allow the electricals to reach to their new position. All worked well. Turned out to be no big deal. Also installed a new LED "Brake!" light. All seem to work great.
Thanks again for all of the encouragement and for your kind advice. See you on the road! (Now that my Bike fits!)
Hopefully just an optimistic brake light switch. Or would that be pessimistic? I had the exact same problem when I bought my `03 R. It had actually melted the lens a little!
texasesq wrote:Also installed a new LED "Brake!" light.
What flavor? I've been considering one of those Clear Alternative units that are all over eBay, but have heard some bad reviews.
Checked the fuse - it's ok. Checked the bulb - BOTH filaments are always burning. Seems like the switch is always on, but how? Front brake seems a little tight, but front wheel will spin on the centerstand with very little drag. Any ideas?
