Adjusting Clutch Travel

[mojosaan]

I have a 2005 R1150R with 7500 miles on it. At about 6000 miles I noticed that my clutch lever travel went further and further out, to the point where it is at the last setting and still pretty far out to engage the clutch. I am wondering if this may have something to do with bleeding the clutch line or do I need to look at replacing my clutch plate? Thanks for any suggestions.

[boxermania]

mojosaan

Well the bike is fairly new, so let's deal with the most probable cause first:

1) Air in the system. Bleed the clutch, the bleed screw is nylon tied to the left upright of the seat frame.

2) The clutch master cylinder is leaking, however, that would be obvious by the reduced level of brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder. If so, the clutch slave will have to be rebuilt or replaced.

3) Clutch plate? That would be far to premature for having a worn clutch disc, unless this is your first bike and you have slipped the clutch big time.

I will assume that you haven't replaced the brake fluid, this in itself will not create the problem you are experiencing, however, it will in time. Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years.

Good luck......

[Boxer]

One other possible problem might be that your hands are shrinking.
I only heard of this happening in one other case. In fact the individual in that case was shrinking all over. He kept downsizing his motorcycle and eventually ended up with a really small version of a sportbike.
The idea caught on. That's why we now have all those little tiny bikes running around everywhere.

Epilogue: The tiny man retired and started raising those miniature horses for sale as novelty items.

[Sunbeemer]

Mojosan, I had a similar problem a year or so ago and bleeding the clutch solved it. Still don't know exactly what caused it or why bleeding solved it, but it did, so I guess some air must have gotten into the line somehow. CycleRob wrote about a procedure a few months ago that could possibly get rid of trapped air from the bleed hole in the clutch master cyclinder by tilting the bike a certain way and working the lever several times, but I forget which way. Seek and you shall find your answer!

[CycleRob]

It was posted Fri May 18, 2007 11:40 am. Go here:
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... highlight=

[boxermania]

You can also accomplish what my esteemed colleague Cyclerob explains with a little bit more effort, but no possibility of loosing the bike while leaning, by removing the MC from the bar and angling accordingly.

Same technique, different approach...........

[CycleRob]

Al,
On a Japanese bike that can be done by removing 2 bolts from the barclamp on the master cylinder (MC). On our 1150R you have to remove the 4 handlebar pinchbolts so you can slide the handlebar to the right after loosening 7 screws/bolts/nuts on the grip, mirror and the MC's plastic shroud fasteners. THEN you can slide the clutch MC off the bar to the left for tipping purposes -and- you are now less than 1/2 done.

It's easier to get 2 weak or 1 strong spotter to help you lean the bike in 1st gear while you flutter pump the air out of the closed-up MC (no tools needed!).

[mojosaan]

On my ride into work today I noticed that my clutch travel was adjusting itself during traffic. As if one moment the travel closed in while a second later, it would be farther out again. I will bleed the clutch and see if this helps. Thanks again.

[CycleRob]

If the engagement point keeps changing, it is most likely a gummed up bleedback hole on the bottom floor of the master cylinder (MC) reservoir. In the picture below you see 2 small holes in the center of the picture, one much larger than the one to the left of it. The tiny left of center one is the bleedback hole. Is is about .020" diameter an easily plugged up by gunk in the reservoir, which typically stays on the bottom where the tiny hole is. Bleeding activity will sometimes clear or partially remove the blockage, but for a complete fix you need to disassemble the MC to brush and spray clean the metal interior. The cleaner must NOT come into contact with ANY rubber parts, hence the complete disassembly. Taking it apart is easy if you have basic tools, a pair of internal snap ring pliers and the ability to take things apart and put them back together without damaging anything.

[Sunbeemer]

I have used isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a q-tip or paper towels to clean out the master cylinders - works great, hurts nothing!