6,000 mile service - zowie!

[deilenberger]

Just finished it tonight. The engine got BMW synthetic since it had stopped using oil over 3,000 miles ago.

Did the valves - they all were loose and a bit noisy. When I was done they were all within 0.0005" of spec.

What a difference! Engine is quiet - very quiet now, and low end power is what I remember it like when I took the test ride that convinced me to buy the Roadster. After my too brief test ride (o'dark and a bit rainy) I had trouble getting my helmet off - my grin was so wide it was sticking on.

Plugs looked perfect - everything looked fine - happy me - happy bike. Also noticed lots of small but significant engineering improvements over the oilheads which was pretty neat to see.

[celticus]

So you did it yourself? I always did my own tune ups on my airhead but figured on taking it to the shop for my 6000. I've got a bit to go. Did you take pictures of the valve adjustment?
Mark

[mogu83]

[quote="deilenberger"]

Did the valves - they all were loose and a bit noisy. When I was done they were all within 0.0005" of spec.

quote]

Don,
At first I was going to ask what a .0005" feeler gauge looked like, even if it was made of steel I imagine a person could see through it. Then I remembered your post on driving lights and the fact that you apparently have something to measure lumens. You must have access to some heavy duty measuring equipment. What did you adjust your valves with a P+G valve gap tool or something similar?

[deilenberger]

Did the valves - they all were loose and a bit noisy. When I was done they were all within 0.0005" of spec.

Don,
At first I was going to ask what a .0005" feeler gage looked like, even if it was made of steel I imagine a person could see through it. Then I remembered your post on driving lights and the fact that you apparently have something to measure lumens. You must have access to some heavy duty measuring equipment. What did you adjust your valves with a P+G valve gap tool or something similar?

Harry - much simpler than that - just a good set of feeler gages (and they can even be inch gauges..)

I call it "no-go-no" (some people call it "go-no-go" - which isn't really accurate but for some reason is easier to say) feeler techniques for checking valve adjustment?

After setting the valves using the very special feelers with the yellow and white handles, I check my settings with an old technique I learned years ago.. involves 3 feelers.

Since I don't have three MM feelers (actually need 6 since intake and exhaust are different) - I use my inch feelers that are graduated in 0.001" increment (1/1000ths of an inch). I pick the one that is the same size as the metric specification for the valve clearance..

In this case 0.012" for the exhaust (12/1000" = 0.30mm) - then I pick one smaller and one larger - in this case 0.011" and 0.013" - the 0.012" should pass through the valve gap with a tiny bit of drag. The 0.011" should fall through it with no resistance, the 0.013" shouldn't go through it without some amount of force.

When you're done - you are within ~0.0005" of the correct setting. Think about it for a while..

Repeat as necessary for the intake valves (which are .15mm = 0.006")

[deilenberger]

So you did it yourself? I always did my own tune ups on my airhead but figured on taking it to the shop for my 6000. I've got a bit to go. Did you take pictures of the valve adjustment?
Mark

Yes, and no photos - sorry.

The basic technique isn't any different from the old oilhead valve adjustment.. with one tiny difference..

Using the camshaft sprocket to find TDC is a bit harder.. The sprocket on the left cylinder has a sort of fan assembly on it - which goes to the rubber hose going down into the crankcase. I assume it's some sort of crankcase ventilation, or compensation for the in-out strokes of the engine.

The right cylinder camshaft sprocket has a device on it that triggers the camshaft position sensor - it's PN3 in http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=30.

This is located at TDC - which works for adjusting the left cylinder when it's facing directly out (in-line with the stroke of the piston) and all valves are loose on that side.

Opposite it on the camshaft sprocket is a small line stamped into the sprocket.. it's visible IF you really look for it. The right cylinder is at TDC and ready to adjust when that line is facing directly out - in line with the stroke of the piston - and again - all valves on that side are loose.

Other than that - it's identical to an oilhead valve adjustment. Jim VonBaden has a good DVD available that describes and shows exactly how to do it - or look for the description/photos for an R1100 or R1150.

Jim's DVD can be found at: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/s ... Post837039

If you were comfortable doing your airheads - nothing mysterious about the hexhead - just twice as many valves to adjust.

BTW - the end-float on the rockers was actually within what I consider reasonable - which was nice - didn't have to retorque the one cylinder bolt to adjust it.

[deilenberger]

One other note - I also did check the throttle-body sync.. with the stepper motors connected.

When I initially started it - there was a slight inbalance at idle - but it looked fine at > 2k RPM. After a few minutes of running - the idle balance was also perfect. Max sensitivity on my TwinMax - the TB's were sync'd perfectly. That's very nice considering how the older oilhead throttle cable design liked to drift out of sync.

The rest of the 6k service is simply checking things - lights working, tire air pressure, all interlocks working, etc. Piece'a'cake that I pretty much do every time I get on the bike.

Considering a local dealer gets $275 for this service - that will pay for me putting more miles on the bike and a few more rallies this year...

[celticus]

" very special feelers with the yellow and white handles "

What kind are these?
Mark

[deilenberger]

" very special feelers with the yellow and white handles "

What kind are these?
Mark

Wurth..

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... 665&page=2

http://www.adventurersworkshop.com/Merc ... ler_Gauges

[celticus]

And what ( this is not a challenge but a quest to know ) is so special about these special feeler gauges?
Mark

[deilenberger]

And what ( this is not a challenge but a quest to know ) is so special about these special feeler gauges?
Mark

The price and the little handles. The handles are nice.. but unnecessary. The price - about $6/each - well - that's about what one could pay for a reasonable set of feeler gauges - with about 20 different sizes.

These are handy since (1) they are the right size, no fumbling to check (2) the handles make them fairly easy to use (3) BMW dealers - some of them - sell them.

Are they "necessary" - nope - but it would be nice to either have one long feeler gauge that can bridge both valves (intakes or exhausts) at the same time since there is a very slight interaction between the two adjusters on one rocker arm. Noticeable if you are adjusting one without a feeler in the other one, and then put a feeler in the other one.

There are places that sell specific size feelers in long strips - about 6" long. These would work fine for the job also.