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Added at the last update
R1150R
Specs
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Some Specs Courtesy of Motorcycle Consumer News |
Fun Stuff
These
are just for fun: Video1(bike),
Video2(bike), Video3(car)
Surging??
Wet seat?? Funny noises?? Your problems don't even compare to this guy's: nest1,
nest2, nest3
You
think you need a bug screen? Not as bad as Bart! This was the damage after a
10 minute ride. The people of The Netherlands call them "muggen."
Muggen
WOW,
this wasnt an option when I bought my bike! Thanks for the laugh Louis! Power
Other Interesting Stuff & Tech Tips
Here
are some tips, tricks and tidbits that people have sent in. If you have something
interesting to share, send it in.
Here
are some great tips sent in my Richard H. (1150Rich) (Word
format -
22K).
r1150rtips.doc
Cyclerob's document on installing a temperature sensor is here (Word
format -
850K): Temperature
gauge.doc (Right click on the
link and select "Save target/link as..")
Bart from Holland sent in these nice
tidbits:
Handle
(Verholen)
- handle in, handle
out
Thermometer
(Verholen) - thermo
Oilplug
(Touratech)
- plug, installed
Roy was nice enough to put together this article for us. He shows and describes
the process for installing a set of PIAA lights with an Autoswitch controller.
Check it out here.
Looking
for a magnetic tankbag for around $100? Ryno seems to like this Marsee Tank
bag:bagtop1, bagtop2,
bagside. A link to his description
is here.
Here are some pics to show
the difference between the standard tan seat and tall tan seat (I assume
dimensions are the same for the black seat, but not sure). Please note that
in the pictures that show two seats, the TALL seat is always the one on the
LEFT. Click here
Fossil
Fred installed a Staintune pipe on his R. Click
here
I've
installed a new Remus titanium pipe on my r-r. Here
are some pictures and sound samples.
These
are some random pictures of the internals on our bikes. Click
here.
Want a simple way to
secure your oil fill cap? Click here
Having trouble removing
or servicing the shifter? This might
help - Cyclerob
Don't
know how to store this stuff?
Try this! Here is another
cute storage trick with coins. - Cyclerob
These
are pictures of Dave's (#2) bike with the new Givi screen attached: pic1,
pic2, pic3.
See down below for another image.
Another
screen, the Memphis Shade 1611 is recommended by Daydream: front,
side1, side2,
behind
Pat
sent in this awesome pic of his rear shelf, painted black to match the
rest of his bits... rear
"Attached is a RAM mount for holding the Garmin GPS III+. Works well, holds steady, handy to use and good viewing position. Hot wire the unit directly to the bike battery - do not use internal batteries!" -Bill H |
"The
following is a procedure for adjusting the valves on the 1150r. The procedure
is similar to other 1100 models but there are a few things |
"I thought the oil cooler ducts on my 11 Roadster did not fit the lines of the scooter and stuck out like a wart. Wanted something that did not dominate the sideview and decided just painting the ducts black wouldnt do it. So I made these up from aluminum and covered with stick-on carbon fiber look vinyl. Attached using silicone sealer. I think it improves the looks, protects the coolers and does not affect the function. Please see attached pix installed on my '99" -Roger |
"Here's an image I took of my bike on the way back from Corbin today. The image shows what a Givi A750 looks like with the windshield cut down, a Corbin seat, a removable Corbin backrest, lowered muffler w. "Wudo" parts, and the bags with some City lids on them." -Patrick W. |
"I too was less than happy with the BMW windscreen that I had installed on my R1150R: at 70 mph the wind hit my helmet to hard that my neck would ache from fighting against it. Before resigning myself to throwing it away and buying another shield, I tried this fix: I removed the top 2 mounting bolts for the screen, substituted longer bolts, and added spacers in the form of little rubber o-rings. This canted the shield upward slightly. And it works great! My problem now is staying under 75 mph. Here are some pix to show the new mounting bolts and o-rings, and some views of the bike to show that the screen still looks good in its new position." -s2pidduncan |
DarthRider submits this great tip: "OK you inveterate tinkerers, here's a good one for you. Went to the BMW shop today and bought a pair of injector/throttle body covers for an early R1100RS. They snap right on the throttle bodies like they are made for them (they are!), they are matte black plastic, they protect the vulnerable plastic injectors and they look cool. And get this - they cost $5.00 for the pair!" |
Gene
writes: "Just installed my Highway Pegs so here are the pictures.
The first picture has the parts and parts numbers. Cost for everything
was about $120. I put some special bolts thru the Clevis that were from
a high performance auto parts store. Also you need the Harley-Davidson
friction clip that you can just barely see. |
||
Dave
writes: "Attached are pictures of the luggage rack I made for
my 1150R, specifically for carrying my Eclipse tail bag. That setup is only
on the bike for trips. The rack is made of a sheet of 3/16" T6061 (hard)
aluminum sheet on two 3/4" thin wall aluminum tube spacers to attach
to the BMW brackets. I put strips of stair tread traction tape from the
hardware store on top to keep stuff from sliding around, with countersunk
stainless screws to hold it together. It looks just like a Krauser rack
I had on a bike in the early 80's. For fabricating this type of item I would recommend the following machinery as a starting point: Bandsaw with metal cutting blade for all the cutting chores. (Found mine at a yard sale for $20!) A bench mounted belt / disc sander combo is fabulous for finishing the cut edges perfectly straight and smooth, and radiusing corners. Beats the living heck out of using a file, and they are reasonably priced. I also have a sandblasting cabinet (home made for about $30) for applying the final glass beaded finish. Stuff comes out with a factory smooth satin sheen. The only expensive part is a compressor with enough capacity to feed the sandblaster, but it has a lot of other uses as well."
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Rack-Bottom, rack-rear |
Cyclerob: "I installed this on my VX800 then moved to my R1150R. It is a digital LED voltmeter from Radio Shack purchased 3-27-94. It's $7.35, very accurate, small & self powered. It was meant as a 12V Lighter plug in to test the battery & charge System. I cut off the plug part and wired it to an ignition-on hot wire. The catolog number is 22-1635. It may still be available in a dusty corner of an obscure Radio Shack somewhere. I checked, radioshack.com ,there isn't an exact present day equivalent. |
The
red/yellow/green
LED's indicated voltage in an ingenious way:
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Cyclerob
also Relocated the charcoal canister to the Non-ABS space under the
fueltank! It fits there in the exact same position & orientation as
on the tail section to not alter any functions. He then bought the BMW system
city cases & they have a bulging relief into the bag volume just for
that cannister that's not there anymore. C'est la vie. Here are some of his other cannister re-location pics: One, Two, Three |
|
Cyclerob
chopped his rear fender. (He is the master manipulator!!!!) |
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Tom
added a set of Hyper-Lites, the brake-light flashers (www.hyperlites.com).
He writes: "These should get me noticed more when stopping, particularly at night. I bought the set from Adventure BMW and it was a bit cheaper than ordering directly from Hyper-Lites. The folks at Hyper recommended the set for the BMW GS. However, the guys at the shop suggested the R1200C set, since it uses spade connectors. [I have these as well, and used a set from my old F650gs -Doug] The install was pretty easy, about a 1/2 hour all together. I used a mounting bracket that sits behind the license plate and ran the wires up under the brake light. I did have to modify the connectors a little, as the male and female pieces both had protective sleeves. I cut the sleeves off of the Hyper-lites portion, since those were a bit less expensive :-). I also had to expand the female connector for the 12v line so it would fit over the spade on the light assembly. I covered all the connections with electrical tape and gathered the wires behind the brake light cover. It took a little creative maneuvering since I have the tail rack on the bike, but I got them all under there. So far I'm very impressed. |
"Here
is a recent picture showing the back of my bike which has been modified
2 ways. |