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connect Gerbing vest to battery
Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 2:14 pm
by Dr. Strangelove
Hi all,
I am considering attaching the leads for my Gerbing vest directly to the battery.
I seem to remember somewhere that the tank can be "pivoted" up without removing it, by removing a couple of screws and thereby accessing the battery terminals.
Before i embark on this electrical adventure, is my memory correct and which screws? Are the oil coolers/fuel disconnects/etc affected?
I realize that the Motronic with need resetting after disconnect, it's the screw/pivot thing I can't find with a search.
Or, even better yet, is there a simpler way of getting to the battery?
tia
John
Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:34 pm
by paroyboy
I thought I saw a BMW adapter at the dealer that lets you connect leads to it, then plug it in. Might be wrong, didnt pay that close attention to it but you might want to check it out.
Actually, here it is...
http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1261
Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 6:33 pm
by iowabeakster
you can tip the tank, but i'm not sure if it is enough to do what you want.
in the instructions below
when you get to step "f". there is a second bolt hole that you can stick the bolt through to "prop" up the tank.
http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/te ... emoval.htm
you may be able to do this without removal of the oil coolers, i am not sure.
Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 9:38 pm
by Dr. Strangelove
I want to avoid using the accessory plug...
That procedure looks more complicated than I'd choose to tackle, at least at first look.
Thanks for the postings, though.
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 1:03 am
by ebiker
Dr. Strangelove wrote:I want to avoid using the accessory plug...
Why? That's why it's there.
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 1:11 am
by baltm604
why not start with the fuse box under the seat and go from there? You should be able to grab power and add a fuse all at once......
Bill
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:28 am
by chris
I was thinking about this as I have a flying lead on there for my battery tender and wondered about connecting an electric vest direct. Maybe through an inline fuse? I don't have the accessory socket by the way.
I fitted the lead by tipping the tank forward, propped it up with a piece of timber. There's plenty of room to get at the terminals that way. You will need to loosen off the oil coolers though. No need to go beyond step 'f' in the link Iowa provided as you're not planning to remove it completely, leave the lines and connectors in place, they're long enough to cope.
PS I never knew about the motronic reset, never did it but it's fine, maybe it did it by itself?!?
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:04 am
by Dr. Strangelove
Why? That's why it's there.
I used it last winter--two problems
one time the plug disconnected from the accessory socket and was scraping the ground--not good and not noticed by me--a passing motorist alerted me to it.
the other is the thermostat winds up being in a pocket or othrwise inaccessible for fine tuning of heat output
why not start with the fuse box under the seat and go from there? You should be able to grab power and add a fuse all at once......
sounds like a plan...is there a step-by-step tutorial out there?
thanks for the input.
JOhn
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:31 am
by Dr. Strangelove
coming from the fuse box sounds good, the more I think about it.
It would not have to be switched power since the circuit would not be completed unless the vest is plugged in.
can I use an "add-a-circuit?" Any suggestions which fuse site to tap from?
I already have one onto the heated grips line (switched) for my Sirius radio.
The Gerbing wiring already has a 15a in line fuse, would I cut that out and use a 15a on an add-a-circuit (and then find a proper ground)?
TIA
John
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:38 pm
by Dr. Strangelove
you can tip the tank, but i'm not sure if it is enough to do what you want.
Thanks, Iowabeakster, for the link. after discovering that the ad-a-circuit was good up to 10 amps, and the gerbing harness had a 15 amp fuse, I crossed that out as a choice, so I was back to square one.
I got brave and followed the instructions on the link and it wasn't too bad though it took about two hours.
Following the instructions the tank can be lifted the width of a 2x4 which I used to prop it up. There wasn't a whole lot of room to work those greasy little 10mm nuts, but I got it.
The only part I was not able to follow--I couldn't remove the bolt from the lug on the - pole; so I don't think the battery was ever completely disconnected. When I was connecting the + limb I had the - limb wrapped in a towel to prevent it touching a negative ground frame.
Thanks again.
John
Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 9:56 am
by dano
John:
i plugged the vest (and had gloves) all last winter into the accessory socket. i bought 2in velcro in a strip and rigged that around my left thigh. then i put the wires and thermostat thru that and take up the slack. the 'stat stays right ontop of my thigh where i can modulate it, etc. you can, of course, adjust as necessary....
dan