BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

So far, I've done two valve lash adjustments - a bit more involved then on an airhead. But hey....I didn't have to remove cam shafts like on my KLR. However, one part of the procedure has driven me bonkers - re-installing the rubberlike plug that lives in the inspection hole. You know, where you view the marks that tell you you're in the right place to adjust. After the first time, I thought the problem was that the plug had hardened. I made sure to have a fresh softer plug the second time around. No better....maybe it was my lack of touch; my brother gave it a try. It took him a full twenty minutes before finally getting the recalcitrant miscreant in.

I supposed that there must be a trick to this. I couldn't imagine wrenches at the dealer taking this much time. So...I asked a respected tech in suburban Chicago what he did. He answered that his solution was to never remove the plug. Instead he turns the engine till the valve train parts can be moved by hand. I did that, but also thought it necessary to look into the hole. He added that he lines up arrows that can be seen on the left side of the head. I don't remember those but I'll investigate next time I'm in there.

What do you guys do ? I don't remember anyone mentioning this since I've been on the forum.

I warm up the plug on my work light for a few mins... it’s more pliable when lightly heated and goes on without hassle.

He added that he lines up arrows that can be seen on the left side of the head.

The arrows are inscribed on the back sides of the cam sprockets on top of both cylinder heads, and when they point outward horizontally that piston is at TDC.

BTW, I don't remove the rubber plug to adjust valves anymore either, but when I did I noticed it is not perfectly round and would fit into the subtly eccentric hole easily only when properly oriented.

remove the spark plug (which you need to do anyway to remove compression), and slide a long screwdriver in there - rotate the bike and watch the screwdriver be pushed out as the piston rises in the cylinder.
When the screwdriver stops moving..... you're at TDC.

Simple, easy, non-invasive.



(easier on a vertically aligned engine obviously - but just as valid on a horizontally aligned block - you just need to push the screwdriver back in after the piston has gone back down.)

Use a long drywall screw and thread it in dead center for a couple of turns. Then lube it up (WD 40 or oil) and grab the end of the screw with a pr of
pliers. I use needle nose vice grips and maneuver it in.
Gets easy w/practice.

Sunbeemer wrote:

He added that he lines up arrows that can be seen on the left side of the head.

The arrows are inscribed on the back sides of the cam sprockets on top of both cylinder heads, and when they point outward horizontally that piston is at TDC.

BTW, I don't remove the rubber plug to adjust valves anymore either, but when I did I noticed it is not perfectly round and would fit into the subtly eccentric hole easily only when properly oriented.

I stopped removing the plug when I lost it inside the engine.....................