BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Occasionally, bike sputtered on hard acceleration, from stop; it ran well after. I also noticed; bike will sputter after hard lean to the left side or right side.When bike returned to straight position and accelerate, it will sputter
as it sucked some dirt or water. Afterthat bike will run great again.

I have changed fuel filter (overdue), spark plug wires (looked worn) and spark plugs (overdue changing); I also added some gas drier if there was some water.

Easy acceleration, bike has no issue and will run all day.

Bike is a single spark, 95000 kms.

Any suggestion??

Stick Coil(s) ?

Betcha....

Click off the spark-plug covers each side. Carefully use the tool-roll plastic coil-puller to remove the stick coil and make sure that little tool doesn't snap in half while doing so. Mine did on each of three different boxers, so get the elegantly-finished third-party alloy tool. Steptoe recommends the use of two flat-blade screwdrivers instead. Sensible....

Then admire the rust-line running down the length of the stick coil which banjaxes the vividness of each spark, leading to hesitation, stuttering and even motor cutout mid-ride.

Stick coils made by Beru are eighty snoojits each, now with a s.s. metal sleeve for greater corrosion resistance.

AL in s.e. Spain.

The owners self diagnosis suggests contaminated fuel, low fuel level or or a faulty fuel pump. The rusty areas on the plugs , if they exist, would indeed mess with the sparks.
Maybe drain the fuel tank , change the fuel filter and address any plug/ coil contamination?
I'm depressed just thinking about it.

If it IS a fuel-supply issue, gregor, I've found in the past that the tank-off, unscrew pump unit plate, etc. job isn't all that depressing to contemplate.
The little U-shaped rubber tube is easy to replace along with a new filter and maybe a new pump. And remember those submersed rubber tubes and components are only guaranteed for 5 years by the Greedy Berlin Pig. So if a fifteen-year-old Beemer bike is still pumping fuel to the injectors at almost 3-bar pressure, it's gainsaying all the doom-mongers and playing a blinder.

gaijin wrote:Occasionally, bike sputtered on hard acceleration, from stop; it ran well after. I also noticed; bike will sputter after hard lean to the left side or right side.When bike returned to straight position and accelerate, it will sputter
as it sucked some dirt or water. Afterthat bike will run great again.

I have changed fuel filter (overdue)...

Did you use immersion-rated fuel hose inside the tank?

Ideas:
Fuel leak inside tank = pressure loss
Tank vent hose plugged (unlikely)
Spark plug gap? (your 2002 doesn't have coil-over-plug "stick coils", so nothing to worry about there)
Air intake leak(s) - at throttle body or elsewhere

sweatmark wrote:

gaijin wrote:Occasionally, bike sputtered on hard acceleration, from stop; it ran well after. I also noticed; bike will sputter after hard lean to the left side or right side.When bike returned to straight position and accelerate, it will sputter
as it sucked some dirt or water. Afterthat bike will run great again.

I have changed fuel filter (overdue)...

Did you use immersion-rated fuel hose inside the tank?

Ideas:
Fuel leak inside tank = pressure loss
Tank vent hose plugged (unlikely)
Spark plug gap? (your 2002 doesn't have coil-over-plug "stick coils", so nothing to worry about there)
Air intake leak(s) - at throttle body or elsewhere

Immersion rated fuel line is a good point as well as using proper FI rated fuel line clamps. The fuel pressure is fairly high as I remember CycleRob once saying so that underscores the need for the proper clamps as well as high pressure rated fuel line. +1 on the use of a standard ignition coil. At least in the US 2004 was the first twin/dual spark.

"Tank vent hose plugged (unlikely)"

We had a laugh last month in José's palatial moto workshop when he tried all sorts of tricks to unbung a seriously blocked vent hose coming from the filler cap area on Motorcycling Mo's enormous year-04 1150 GS Adventure. José even had the idea of clamping a piece of stout wire in the jaws of his power drill and ferkling it into the hole to try to loosen the years-old blockage.

Now, as a memento of that hour's work, there's a big black blob of gunge incorporated unremovably into the workshop wall, when after a final desperate 25-bar blast of compressed air back up the vent hose stub, the blob of gunge came out of the orifice like a Polaris missile launch and hit the wall 5m away with a loud splat.

So, to be sure, a blocked tank filler vent is not all that rare !

Hi,

I would go with a stick coil on it's way out.

Regards,
Russ

+1 on Stick coils. mine was bucking like a bronco at 3800 RPM, replaced them all.

Unless he's got something really strange there are no stick coils on an '02. They hit the US market as '04 models as my service manager years ago told me. I bought an '03 new and it had single spark with a conventional ignition coil under the tank. My '04 is twin spark with stick coils on the primary plug (top/end of jug) and secondary which is under the jug. I've replaced both stick coils as they failed under 40K. I've 90K+ on them and still strong. The secondary coils are fine. If the stick coils fail again I'm going to the Ford F-150 ignition coil.

I've followed lots of threads on this forum abt stick coil failures. I have what is probably a ridiculously stupid question:
Does the 02 r1150r non abs have stick coils? Seems like some threads say yes and others no. If so, are they located in the black rubber boot that plugs onto the spark plug?
Finally, is there a simple way to diagnose a failing stick coil?
Apologies for the moto 101 level questions.

No apologies necessary!

No the '02 does not have "stick coils". The '02 and the '03 that I owned had one spark plug per cylinder and that was fired by a somewhat conventional ignition coil that was located under the tank. The '04 that I now own is "dual or twin spark", two plugs per cylinder. The plug in the tunnel thru the valve cover has a coil integrated into the spark plug wire/cap. A small 2 or 3 conductor cable with a specific connector powers that coil. The plug located under the jug near the block is a conventional plug wire powered by a coil up under the tank/seat.

A faulty stick coil manifests itself as rough running and very noticeable lack of throttle response. The way to determine if the stick coil has failed is to start the engine and let it idle. Pull the plug wire off one of the secondary plugs (under the jug), if the engine stalls then that coil is faulty. If it continues to run then do the same on the other side. Either plug firing(top or bottom) will allow the engine to run (albeit a tad rougher) If the stick coil is bad and then killing the other plug.......the engine of course dies. Hope that makes sense.

Let me put a disclaimer......the information concerning when the stick coils came out came from my dealer years ago and is specific to models sold in the US. I don't know what differences there may be say in say a model sold in Europe or elsewhere.

This is what that stick coil looks like:

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Prod ... rEEALw_wcB

Now THAT was a clarification.
Thanks for that.

After two bottles of gas dryer with four full tanks, a fuel filter (due for change), a set spark plug wires and plugs, No More Sputtering. I rode in the rain, leaned left/right and hard accelerated from stop position. No Sputtering. Possible Bad Gas!!

Glad you fixed it!!

+ 1 to the 'glad' comment.

But Towerworker, I beg to differ - this graphic from the RealOEM parts list is for a year 2002 Euro-version 1150 bike.
Which has stick-coils....proving the fact that once more BMW USA AG is historically right up to current times, actually behind the times.

As usual with this rather behind-the-times forum design, you have to point at the link below and then right-click to choose "Open in new window" in order to see the foto. You can't just look at it in the body of the post. Why ? ?

https://s26.postimg.cc/wmstxmxeh/Stick_Coil.jpg

AL in s.e. Spain

Sputtering is back again.
First 40 kms, bike ran great until I leaned the hard left and accelerated. Here Sputtering!!
After I gunned it, it disappeared with occasionally reoccurring, just to remind me that I will not go away for good.
Several things that I noticed>
1. After short/long breaks, bike ran great until it got hot, here comes sputtering.
2. At stop waiting for light to go green, I revved engine high. When I took off, it did not sputtered and keep hard on throttle

Since it (sputtering) started when I leaned hard left, I decided to take the tank off and rechecked all wirings for damaged, cleaned them included connector to coil.

I also have a brief conversation with car mechanic on this issue. He said, check the coil.
If it is fuel issue, car/bike will die when go up hill.

My bike did not die going up hill or flat surface; it is just jerky/hicup/hesitated and will ran normal

Is it coil issue?

¿ It's a Japanese-market bike ? If so, II'd bet that the year '02 models there have stick coils.
Gotta be a faulty stick-coil or two.

'02 model year bikes had a single dual output coil, like the '81-'95 airheads have .
It occurs when the engine is up to operating temperature, coil could be an issue, the Hall Effect sensors for the ignition can fail when hot, but perform normally when cooled off .
When you have the fuel tank off, check the primary and secondary circuits of the coil for resistance value .

I'd try some Sea-Foam (or other reputable fuel system cleaner) gas treatment added strictly according to directions on the bottle. From your previous temporary fix after using gas dryer, sounds like you could still have residual fuel (delivery) problems?