BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

When I bought my R1150R the gentleman told me that the reason that the heated grips didn't function had something to do with the throttle control that had been installed. I really didn't give it much thought, but after 30,000 miles of riding, some of it in very cool weather, I am more than interested in getting the heated grips working again. The switch is there, the fuse is in the fuse block but other than that, I don't really know how to proceed.
Any guidance would be much appreciated.

The wires for the heated grips go into the handle bars at the ends and exit the bar a few inches from the handlebar clamps, wires may have been cut to install the aftermarket control .

I suggest you remove the end caps and see what you have .

Also, it is a well known issue, that the wire harness is too tightly tie wrapped around the steering head, so you may also have a broken wire(s) in this area as well .

So, if I take the bar ends off and see no wire going back into the handlebar I can probably assume that they took the heated grips off? I have to think that even if that is the case, if the switch and other components are there it wouldn't be an incredibly costly venture to put the grips back on.

The last time I checked, the heated grips were well over $100US each and that was 5 years ago .

Just checked and the grips do have wires running into the end of the handlebars, so I have the switch, the fuse is in the fuseblock and the grips appear to be the heated variety. I guess I need to start troubleshooting to see what problems there are. I am just wondering if there is any connection at all with the throttle stop and the fact that the grips don't work. The throttle stop is the type that replaces the bar end with a knurled ring that can be tightened up against the grip. Not sure why that would interfere with the heated grips.

DavidT,
Since both grips are not working, is the fuse blown? If it is blown you will need one of these to help you troubleshoot exactly where the short is, without blowing a lot of fuses. If you do not have one with 1 blown filament to utilize, you can use jumper wires with male spade terminals inserted in the fuse socket and the female spade terminals on the good/spare headlite bulb. If the wires are shorted at rest or when you turn the steering both ways the bulb will flash full bright exactly when it occurs. Just powering the grips it will glow dimmer. Just be sure to clean the bulb glass with Alcohol+ToiletTissue and do not touch the glass in handling it as minute finger moisture/oils will smoke when the bulb gets hot and it can crack the glass.



The wires that go to the grips are small diameter and they are prone to crush, tension and bending damage. When I checked mine out of curiosity (they were working OK) I found the twistgrip side wire was pulled nearly tight inside the handlebar, stressing its connection as the throttle was twisted. Some extra slack was immediately pushed back in and restrained where it comes out of the bar center so it would not happen again. You'll have to follow each of those 2 wires (fuel tank off) all the way to where they connect to the main harness, just rearward of the steering stem, at the top-center of the second pic.