Tank removal: Secrets/tricks?

[martinjmpr]

I need to install the battery tender SAE connector to my bike, and it looks like it's going to be too crappy to ride this weekend, so I may as well go ahead and tackle the job now.

I know there are tank removal instructions in the owners manual, but are there any special tricks or dangers? I've heard people say something about quick disconnectors being fragile? Should I pick up some extra to have on hand just in case?

Better yet, since everything is on Youtube, is there a video I should watch of the procedure?

Thanks in advance! Getting ready for riding season!!

[AZBMWRIDER]

First trick is to wiat until you're down to the reserve light on, a lot lighter then .
I wrap the oil coolers in old towels after getting them removed .
Make sure the electrical connector to the fuel pump is disconnected and the two hoses for the evap canister as well, if the bike still has it .
I remove the screws for the trim panel under the seat and move them out of the way a bit so the tank comes off .
The quick disconnects are not a very reliable part on this bike, if you still have the plastic OEM connectors, they will break eventually .
You'll need TORX bits to remove the screws for the oil cooler seat trim and the bolt on the right side that secures the ful tank .
If you don't have any, I got a good set from Harbor Freight had all the necessary sizes .
I also put a piece of wood under the front tire to keep the front end straight forward during tank removal and reinstallation .

[Roy1150R]

Forum member Sweatmark has an excellent video on tank removal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXbNYhDNpkg

If the QD's are the original plastic type, I would replace them, tank removal or not.

[sstein]

Make sure not to lose any of the bolts, especially the final large bolt that secures the tank to the frame.

[martinjmpr]

Forum member Sweatmark has an excellent video on tank removal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXbNYhDNpkg

If the QD's are the original plastic type, I would replace them, tank removal or not.

Can I presume my local BMW dealer will have a quality aftermarket replacement?

[sweatmark]

Don't presume.

And don't turn that battery charger pigtail into some big project. Just be careful with the plastic QCs, ensuring both lines are fully disconnected prior to lifting tank off bike.

The male QCs are the weak link; female sides hold up fine if the mating surfaces and o-rings are clean and lubed upon reconnection. Petroleum jelly.

Bumping up to metal QCs is suitable for peace of mind, but many of us have 10+ years' reliable service with the plastic QCs... And I've had my Rockster tank off & on 50 times or so.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuelsystem.html

[Sunbeemer]

Another idea is you could connect the pigtail to the starter solenoid (+) and a nearby ground (-) and then you wouldn't have to remove the tank, not that it's a huge deal, so if you do, here's a tip: stuff the edge of a shop rag under the front lip of the tank to prevent the underside from being gouged by the top of the shock bolt when you lift it off.

[riceburner]

Another idea is you could connect the pigtail to the starter solenoid (+) and a nearby ground (-) and then you wouldn't have to remove the tank, not that it's a huge deal, so if you do, here's a tip: stuff the edge of a shop rag under the front lip of the tank to prevent the underside from being gouged by the top of the shock bolt when you lift it off.

Never had an issue with the shock bolt (except when I catch my fingers on it).

One tip is to ensure, when you disconnect the 2 breather pipes that you pull the mating joint off the lower end on 1 pipe, but leave it in place on the other - that way you'll always put the pipes back on teh correct lower end (not an issue really if both lower go straight to atmosphere (UK bikes), but I think one of them flows into a carbon-filter cannister on US spec bikes?).

Another tip is to remove the 2nd set of screws that hold the rear sidepanels in place - the screws that are about level with the fuse box - you can then pull the sidepanels out and twist them upwards slightly and the plastic lug that would normally grip the frame rail can be used as a prop to keep the panel ends away from the tank. Makes life a LOT easier. (I removed that 2nd set of screws permanently - they don't really do much).

Further - on the rubber welnuts that accept the screws holding the lower part of the oil coolers to the tank - the rubber gets tired and it's very easy to lose the steel washer that should be inside the rubber welnut - so be careful there.

[riceburner]

Don't presume.

but many of us have 10+ years' reliable service with the plastic QCs... And I've had my Rockster tank off & on 50 times or so.

Ditto - mind you, there's less ethanol in the fuel here in the UK.