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So I am trying to replace the rubber shrink tubing around the wires from the right handle bar. I have the tank off, and I am wondering how to remove the wires from the connectors so that I can pass the whole bundle through the new shrink tubing. Is there a way to remove the wires from the plastic connectors without having to cut and then reattach them? I can see the "female" receptacles inside the body of the plastic connector, but I don't see any way to get them out of there.

Thanks for any help.

Steven

There are various pin extractor tools available depending upon the application, Im not sure of the specific model you will need some investigation would be in order. Why do you belive you need to replace this material? Can you use some of the split wire loom instead?

sstein,
The wire terminals are not difficult to remove IF you have the right wire terminal tab release tool. I have one like the red one in this pic below, but you can make one or improvise one from scrap material.



First you have to find those well hidden retainer tabs that are present on EVERY wire terminal plug. Because of the way that ALL the locking tabs work, you must find and release them from the terminal side, not the wire side, of the plastic terminal plug. This website below shows how to do that with a very good tutorial on how to solve an almost common overheated terminal problem for most Japanese bikes with permanent magnet alternators and shunt voltage regulators. The terminals are not sturdy enough for the current they carry common with sustained high engine RPMs and/or discharged batteries. Study the photos to understand how those integrated retainers work. Click on this link:

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Electrical%2 ... ctors.html

Did you see those locking tabs "swinging out" (pushed out a little too far by the tech) on each terminal? For terminal removal they have to be forced flat with the terminal using your tool, so the terminal can be pulled out by yanking on the wire from the other side.

Those male and female terminals have obvious access tunnels in the plastic plug that allow easy release of the locking tabs with a small screwdriver. The terminal plugs you are working with will have much thinner or NO tab release access at all !! Just knowing where they have to be is a huge advantage. All you'll need is a very thin, flat piece of narrow (same width as those protruding locking tabs), strong spring steel to force between the plastic plug and locking tab on the terminal so it does not "catch" on the space provided in the plastic plug. Be careful you do not use too much force, or use too thick a release tool that the terminals get bent or distorted.

Thanks for the responses.

Why do you belive you need to replace this material? Can you use some of the split wire loom instead?

I figured I would try to replace it close to its original appearance, and that the sealed rubber tubing would be the most water resistant.

The terminal plugs you are working with will have much thinner or NO tab release access at all !! Just knowing where they have to be is a huge advantage. All you'll need is a very thin, flat piece of narrow (same width as those protruding locking tabs), strong spring steel to force between the plastic plug and locking tab on the terminal so it does not "catch" on the space provided in the plastic plug

When looking end-on at the female terminals, you are saying I need to thread this "very thin, flat piece of narrow (same width as those protruding locking tabs), strong spring steel" around the curved end of the female terminal, between it and the plastic housing, to hit the release tab? Then the female terminal should come out?

All of the rubber sheathing is crumbling, falling apart and falling off of my wires as well on my '04. Will be doing the same as you fairly soon.
As a comparison, was looking at my '02 Honda Valkyrie and there is no hint of an issue with the shielding on it. Also took a look at my old 1994 Honda Magna...good there as well.

Hey CycleRob.....I recognize that pair of three wire terminals. The Magnas were famous for frying Reg/Recs and melting the wire connectors. Been there/done that on the Magna.

Wonder if there was just a bad batch of sheathing or a vendor issue on the Beemer.

Pappy, The 3 common colored stator wires, Yellow on Honda/Suzuki and White on Yamaha certainly are a weak point in the charging circuit. Besides the stator connector being near the battery vent tube acid and exposed to front wheel spray when it rained, the Magnas were washed a lot too. The male/female terminals over the years corroded slightly, weakening the marginal current carrying connection that was barely adequate when new. Once the corroded terminal connection interface starts to sputter, it is destroyed that same riding season, usually taking the battery with it.

BTW, that was not my electrical repair work. The write-up and pics came from the KTM950 website.

Yep, I caught mine literally as it happened. Cranked it up to go for a ride and saw and smelled something burning. Shut it down, verified, and ordered a Regulator. Smoked the connections. They were corroded. On the 3rd gen Magnas the regulator was down below the batt and around the vent tube but the wires were behind the batt. box and higher up and out of the way. Fairly easy to get to and a straight forward repair.

Pappy,
Getting off the subject of the original BMW topic, I would not have replaced the Regulator-Rectifier until it was confirmed to be bad/damaged. They cost too much for that. You could very likely have fried stator windings and wasted money on replacing the wrong part. To test the stator windings you could use an Ohmmeter, but nothing is more accurate than an AC output test:
1--Run the engine to 5,000 RPM with the yellow wires disconnected so you can check for greater than 90 VAC between each of the 3 pairs. Be careful about touching them or touching them together or you'll get the shock of your life! Less than 90V on any of the 3 pairs and that set of coils is internally shorted out.
2--After the stator checks OK, temporarily but securely connect the yellow wire pairs together to run test the regulated DC output.
3--THEN you will know if the Reg-Rect is OK or not.
4--Finally, replace, or better yet . . . solder together the fried AC output wire connections. The factory plastic plug connectors are only needed as an assembly conveience at the factory and for easy shop testing and replacement. Other than that, it is cheaper/quicker/better to solder each wire pair together and insulate them with heat shrink tubing.

If the engine is not in running condition for the AC output test, there are ways to test Reg-Rects by applying AC voltage to just 2-at-a-time of the 3 separate pairs of the 3 yellow wires using a step down AC transformer salvaged from discarded equipment -or- inexpensively purchased from Radio Shack. A 24 VAC one should be the minimum output voltage so you can measure the regulated 14V DC output between the red and black wires coming out of the Reg-Rect.

My F800ST has the same type of permanent magnet alternator (400Watts) and there are 3 yellow AC output wires too. Externally the connector looks like new, but I'll pull it apart for dielectric grease packing the next time I have the bodywork off for a 12K service.

If I may interrupt this more interesting discussion with the mundane - where can I get the correct connector tab release tool, and some new terminals? Some appear corroded. I don't see them in the local auto parts stores. Not an exclusive order-from-BMW tool I hope...

Most of my experience is in the marine industry but the ign. and charging systems between motorcycle and marine (outboard) are almost identical. Updated my profile page so you can check my background......
I re-read my post and it did sound like I ordered a RR before the smoke settled.
Engine was runnable and battery was registering 17V at around 2500rpm. Did the 1-2, 2-3, 1-3 checks at 5000 but on a Magna the voltage is only 60V. Also did a quick check with an ohmmeter for shorts to ground on each leg. The other no brainer part about this one was that the back of the RR had a hole burned into it as well. In the marine world about everything goes back together with dialectric grease if you care about your customers.
Looks like I will be heading right past you in May. Going up to the Maggie Valley area before school lets out and everything gets crowded, Haven't been up there in over 30 years. The other possibility is Maggie for June for the "Inzane" gathering of Valkyrie Riders from across the country.

sstein - I don't know that replacing the terminals is necessary unless they are really badly corroded. Clean them up with a small brass or stainless wire brush or scotchbrite pad or whatever your favorite method is and once back in place in the connectors use dialectric grease then assemble the connectors.

Yes. I plan to, however I first need to get them out of the plastic housing to snake them through my new rubber sheath. So do you know where I can get the tool I need to do that?

Here, found it first try using good old Google

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-57750.as ... 7AodMBQAUQ

On some of those terminals I was able to use a very small allen wrench to release the locking tabs. I only bought one tool, the red one, from a motorcycle dealer's parts supplier like Tucker Rocky or Parts Unlimited. See your nearest Japanese bike dealer and ask for the tool.

The one thing to watch out for is female terminal overheating as it was arcing/sparking, generating enough heat to anneal the metal. After that, the metal looses it's springy strength and is easily bent. The female terminal's gripping force goes to near zero and when put into service again REALLY overheats the terminal, sending it to a smoking grave. If you find signs of that kind tinted/colored overheating, replace them.

Thanks for all the info. I'll get the tool somewhere and see how it goes.
Last question - I promise! I notice that each plastic terminal housing appears to be composed of 2 parts snapped together. Do I need to dissemble the plastic housing to remove the terminals?

Thanks again.

I had the same problem. I decided to use a combination of electrical tape and "Brush On Electrical Tape." It worked like a charm. First, I removed the old, plastic sheathing and shrink tube. Then I wrapped the wiring in good quality electrical tape. Then I applied the Brush On over the electrical tape. Done. Looks good. And has shown no sign of leaking or cracking after two years. With that kind of longevity, I would not hesitate to use this technique anywhere on the bike - and in fact I have.

I bought my can of Brush On from Auto Zone, but I have seen it many other places. This stuff is third on my list of miracles (WD-40, Duct tape and Brush On).

when I removed the connectors for my heated grips to install shrink wrap they were one piece. I was able to get them out with a small flat headed screw driver and some patience. Everything just clipped back into place.

Well I found one of those tools mentioned above, tried it and it did not fit the connectors I was trying to undo. I bit the bullet and bought some electrical tape and wound the whole wire bundle up. It actually came out looking fine.

My local BMW shop dealer (Dunbar Motorsports in Brockton, MA) said that he could not get the tool for me, that the BMW kit for electrical connectors runs around $1000!! HA! Are you kidding me?

I also cannisterectomized and fuel-filter externalized the bike today. Found a nice 3" X 3/8" brass tube connector with threaded ends to replace the filter in the pump/filter assembly. Hope to reassemble the whole mess in the next few days.

The weather is finally starting to turn nicer here on the Northeast Coast. Gotta get ready.

Do you still have the canister? My bracket broke and I wore a hole in it before I got it fixed. If you still have you'd I'll take it off your hands.

I do still have it. My understanding is that the canister doesn't do much good so, sure, you can have it. You can PM me contact info and pay for shipping. Anything you'd like to trade?