thepeacebullgrunt wrote:At around 75 000 miles what are the few mechanical things to adjust or clean on the engine (in addition to the usual services) that I could request on my bike to sort of rejuvenate her?... to feel it fresh, speedy & responsive as it was during the first years for example.
What could I as ask my mechanic?
Should I use those engine cleaning mixtures to throw in the gas tank?
Not sure how insane it is but my independent mechanic made the mistake to forget replacing the fuel filter since I own the bike... he did it last week and I can positively feel it while riding the past two days.
What would you recommend that is not like super pricey to perform?
PS: As far as parts upgrades (not services) Tires, Brakes & Shocks are new from this month... I might do the exhaust system soon.
Interesting question. There are several things that come to mind:
1 - There is no replacement interval for the fuel filter. The R1200R is the only hexhead/camhead BMW that uses a fuel filter now making our bikes superior to all others (but we knew this right?).. this is also common on BMW cars now - no replacement interval spec'd. The reason none is specified is - the filter can last about forever IF you never get a tank of dirty gasoline. If you get a bad enough tank, it can take a perfect condition fuel filter and make it a stopper almost instantly. This can also happen if you change the filter without cleaning out what caused the old one to stop up. At this point, I have no plans to change mine.. until it needs it. The real test of a fuel filter is top-speed. If you can still reach top speed the fuel filter and the air filter are in adequate condition to continue using them.
2 - All normal services should be done.
3 - It might be time to pull the driveshaft and check the condition of the front splines, and perhaps lubricate them. Worth checking the feel of the universal joints while it's apart.
4 - Alternator belt. At 75,000 miles this would be either your 2nd or 3rd change depending on what BMW spec's you believe or care to go by. Keep the old one as a spare, it will likely look brand new.
5. Throttle-body cleaning? This will require paying $14 for the special pliers used to remove the hose-bands that hold the rubber mounts to the TB's and the tube to the airbox. This is easily ordered on-line, and if you need the manufacturer/model, give a yell and I'll take a look at mine (which is identical in every respect except price to the BMW "Special tool"..)
6. Starter lubrication. Probably not a bad time to R&R the starter and at least oil the nose bushing on it. Not that bad a job on the R12R since the starter is right there where you can get to it.
7. Think about clutch spline lube. This hasn't been a big failure point for the hexhead/camhead engines as it was for many BMW models in the past. I think they may have actually gotten the machining correct on the interface between the engine and transmission.. but if there is any sign of balky shifting, this wouldn't be a bad thing to do. It IS a major job, since it requires basically splitting the bike in half.
8. Fork oil change. While not used as a damping medium, it might just be time to replace the oil just because.
9. Plugs - probably due for your 2nd change of plugs.
10. Wheel bearings - I'd be spinning the front wheel looking for any sign or sound of bearing failure, and you may want to remove the wheel so you can turn the bearing by hand (any feel of grittiness means it's time to replace them.) Again - not a big failure point on the hex/cam-heads (I actually can't recall anyone having one fail.)
11. Check the rear drive for play. The 9-3 hands position wiggle to feel for play. If you feel any - measuring it and comparing it to BMW's spec's would be in order. If it's excessive, chances are the crown-gear bearing is getting tired. There is an excellent DIY writeup on replacing it on the BMW-MOA hexhead/DIY subforum.
12. Check the rear swingarm for bearing play - that's an in-out wiggle test at the rear of the rear tire (sitting on the port or starboard side of the bike - grab the tire, try pulling/pushing it in and out. If there is play - find out where.) These again have not been noted failure or wear points on the hex/cam, so I'd expect the bike to pass this test.
13. Do an anal valve adjustment (probably redo the rocker-arm endplay adjustment - see the MOA/hex/DIY forum) and do a throttle-body sync (which likely won't be needed if the valves are adjusted correctly.)
14. Go over every nut/bolt on the bike. Just because. I would tend to replace any that appear at all rounded out (since almost everything is torx), and replace any that are rusted.
15. Almost forgot - brake fluid flush. It's spec'd for every 24 months from the day of manufacturing.
Does this list seem to be rather obscure things? Pretty much is since not much goes wrong with the R12R. These are just sort of normal things to do and check. I generally check most of the "check" items above every service on my bike. It keeps me feeling warm and fuzzy when riding it in some out of the way location with no dealer within hundreds of miles.
Oh - the ONLY "engine cleaning" mixture I'd use on any vehicle is Techron added to the fuel tank one or two tanks before an oil service. It WILL clean up crusty valves and piston tops. Anything else is pretty much snake oil IMHO (except BG44 - which is OK stuff, but difficult to find.)
