BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I do all my own work on my bikes (with a bit of help from you fine fellows). I bought my 04 R1150R in 2010 with only 6k miles on it. Still looks new at 13k. I was reading the service manual and noted it calling for retorquing the head bolts at the 600 mile service. Trouble is, I know my bike had the dealer service at 6k by the PO, but I did not see a record for the 600 mile service. He obviously rarely rode it, and I rather doubt he had the 600 mile service done. In case he did though, is there any harm in my doing the head retorque at this point? I wish I could contact him and ask but I have forgotten his name. I do recall the very sad look he had as I pulled out of his drive on the bike (his wife hated it and wanted it gone from day one; she was smiling and so was I). Thanks

I don't know that it would hurt anything to put a touque wrench on the head bolts and pull to the specified touque. I would not loosen and retouque them. Generally not a good idea. However I did loosen and retorque mine to chance the pushrods at about 30,000 miles. Still not sure if that was a good move. But no obvious problems.

There is actually no final specified torque as far as I know. It is a starting torque and a finishing 90 degree rotation. I have not seen a peak torque spec for these bolts.

slowtorque wrote:There is actually no final specified torque as far as I know. It is a starting torque and a finishing 90 degree rotation. I have not seen a peak torque spec for these bolts.

90 degrees?
I thought it was 180 degrees?

Yes, 180 not 90.

slowtorque wrote:Yes, 180 not 90.

When you loosen each nut (and the 10mm hexhead) individually, oil the threads. Torque to 22 ft-lbs then go an additional 180 degrees (an exact 1/2 turn). Here is the torquing pattern for Left & Right cylinders:
Click Thumbnail. Then IF you need it print, Click pic displayed for full size photo:


You should also set the rocker arm end float clearance and I would not go less than .003" - - - to allow for a decent oil clearance in a very hot engine.

EDIT: To change photo host from PhotoBucket to the faster, less intrusive Postimage.org

Excellent, thanks for the info. I was able to contact the dealership where this bike was purchased and it turns out that the original owner did have the 600 mile service done (albeit at 1400 miles). So, I am resting much easier now. I did not want to take a chance of overstretching a bolt on a retorque, not knowing whether it had been done or not.

When you loosen each nut (and the 10mm hexhead) individually, oil the threads

I'm not sure about that, Rob. Shouldn't they be torqued DRY (but obviously free to rotate easily).

On the subject of torquing the head bolts, I would simply back-off each one in turn; make sure it is free to turn easily, then torque it as per instructions.

Rog

Rog(UK) - Yorkshire Dales wrote:

When you loosen each nut (and the 10mm hexhead) individually, oil the threads

I'm not sure about that, Rob. Shouldn't they be torqued DRY (but obviously free to rotate easily).

On the subject of torquing the head bolts, I would simply back-off each one in turn; make sure it is free to turn easily, then torque it as per instructions.

Rog

The book calls for wet torque

Thanks Goomicoo - and sorry to doubt you Rob! I didn't have the manual to hand and I was in doubt, but am glad you cleared it up.

Rog