My father upgraded to the new 6 cylinder LT and gave me a great deal on his old 1150R New to me and I've only ridden Harleys. I've had it just two weeks so I'm just getting to know it, but I'm curious about a few things......
1. Hard time changing gears - This motor is NOTHING like the Harley, the minute I let off the throttle to shift, the engine goes immediately down to idle speed. I can't change gears as fast as I could on the Harley. And when I do the bike shimmies because the engine has to get up to speed to match the driveshaft speed. I'm starting to learn how to shift all over again, but if you guys/gals have some insights I'd appreciate it.
2. What's the black lever on the left side grip? My dad says its a choke, but a choke on a EFI bike?
3. Hard to change to 1st while idling in neutral. I posted this on another forum and they seem to think its normal. I'm used to a big Harley "clunk" sound selecting first. With this 1150R I find I have to squeeze and release the clutch 2-3 times before I can get it back into first gear. I step on the lever and nothing happens until I squeeze the clutch in and out a few times. Normal?
1: When I upshift, I just twitch the throttle closed maybe an eighth of a turn, just twitch the clutch lever in a quarter-inch and lift the shift lever, pretty much all at once. Like buttah. Downshifting, I don't move the throttle.
2: That's a fast-idle lever. Adds a bit of throttle. It has two positions; up all the way, where you hold it while actually starting. Let go and it goes down one notch. Leave it there for a minute or two, then put it all the way down.
3: If you're idling in neutral, and pull the clutch in, you've got maybe three seconds before the transmission spins down to a stop. At that point, it's harder to get to first. Solution is to leave the clutch out until just before you want first gear.
Thanks for the tips! I'll give them a try after work. As for the fast-idle lever, that's what I've been doing, treating it like a choke. All the way up first thing in the morning, then when I get to the end of my subdivision (about 2 miles) push it all the way down. Interestingly though, if I leave it all the way up, I can shift a lot smoother
I know exactcly what you mean. Had Harley's since 94 and decided last summer to add to my colletion. Bought a used 04 R1150R. It's a great bike but it took a bit of getting used to it. Shifting is totally different. I barely engage the clutch and and keep the throttle up a bit. You will get used to it and then you will shift smoothly. I just use the "choke" when it's a little cold or hasn't been started.
I think it's a great bike and wanted something totally different than the Harley, and found it and like both.
1) When changing up gears preloading the gear change lever allows a smoother and slicker transition between gears.
Preloading means putting pressure on the gear change lever (effectively taking up its free travel) before disengaging the clutch and completing the gear change.
With practise muscle memory takes over and this becomes automatic.
Changing down gears is different. This comes down to matching the revs and at the same time remembering that these bikes have a heavy flywheel that takes just a little longer to get moving as you blip the throttle.
2) You are right. That black lever isn't a choke, it's a high idle - but can still be used when starting the bike from cold. If when starting the bike from cold you pull it all the way up and hold it there it increases the idle revs by the about 1000 rpm to say 2000. It will only remain in this highest position while you hold it there. When you let the lever go it will fall back to a half way position increasing the idle revs by about 500 rpm to say 1500 rpm. It will remain in this position without you having to hold it there and so you can ride off immediately. After the motor is warmed up you use your thumb to push it all the way down. If you inadvertently leave it in that half way position it won't do any harm. After all it doesn't change the fuel/air mixture it just increases the idle - you'll get a reminder at the next stop sign.
3) From my experience what you are experiencing is not normal. I have come to love my 1150RT gearbox (well almost) and all its quirks. But that's not someting I could learn to love.
Others might chime in here and give some possible causes/fixes but having already replaced two clutches (as a result of earlier poor riding technique followed by poor maintenance) I would look into this further. I particularly kick myself for not having heeded an ever so gentle warning that something was wrong. In my case it was a change to the feel of the clutch lever - subtle and at the time I thought not catastrophic.
60% of the art of conversation is knowing when to say nothing
NoRRmad wrote:1: When I upshift, I just twitch the throttle closed maybe an eighth of a turn, just twitch the clutch lever in a quarter-inch and lift the shift lever, pretty much all at once. Like buttah. Downshifting, I don't move the throttle.
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I agree with this method in upshifting and shifting as the revs are on the higher end as well. 4,5-5k RPM. Don't baby these bikes either. They like to be reved!
As for as getting in first from nuetral, it sounds like you have figured out the technique! They all do that. Sometimes it will go right into 1st and sometimes you just have to bring the clutch ALL the way in and release it a time or two before it cluncks into 1st.
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I borrowed a new F650GS yesterday from the main dealer. The bar controls were identical to the R1150R but the enrichment lever was missing. Started fine without it but I kept feeling for the lever to ensure it was shut off. Habit.
Here's a small refinement on what others have said. When engaging first from neutral at a stop, pull the clutch lever all of the way in, then release it slightly while pushing down on the shift lever. It'll engage first with a little clunk.
I think all these "first gear techniques" revolve around the problem of the gears and shift dogs coming to a stop in the wrong position. Another technique is to rock the bike back or forward a bit and try the shift lever again. I prefer the trick of leaving the clutch engaged until just before the shift. Less chance of squirting forward by accident, or sitting at a green light pumping the lever.