Just replaced cam chain tensioner

[johngellis]

I just replaced the cam chain tensioner on my 2004 R1150r. Various previous posts on this site proved most helpful. Some of the posts I have read suggest the body of original tensioner (with the external spring) has a 17mm head. However the original tensioner on my bike (made 06/04) has a 15mm head but is the old type with an external spring.

My point is that one cannot assume because the size of the external head is 15mm that a new type tensioner is fitted

As previously reported the new tensioner with internal spring silences the clatter, and improves low speed running. Definitely a recommended modification

John

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Ca ... rSwap.html
http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/chain.html

[MIXR]

Correct John.

The intermediate (but still bad) tensioner introduced by BMW was mid-model in 2004. Some of the very early threads here and on the ADV site went into great detail about this. Most issues were with early bikes getting a few miles on them, but that was back a few years now. It was most guys like me with 01/02/03 bikes and some of the GS models who had a problem. Your intermediate tensioner was only around for a short time until BMW realised it was also a dud. The 'new' one is actually the same as they were fitting to the early R1200GS model, and some guys reported that they had to order that part rather than the R1150 part in case they got stuck with an old stock upgraded dud for the R1150R.

Glad you got it sorted. The 'rule of thumb' for pre-04 bikes is the head size. It gets tricky with the 04 and even some of the 05 bikes as I understand it. I believe all of the late 05 and onwards bikes have the newer tensioner, but someone else will have to confirm that.

Oh - It should have had no effect on low speed running. It's just an anti-lash device, not even a real tensioner.

[CycleRob]

The newer camchain tensioner has an internal spring, but it's most important feature is the internal zero lash hydraulic adjuster. It is essentially a hydraulic lifter built into the tensioner piston. The light internal spring pressure takes up some of the slack after the initial installation until engine oil pressure forces the air out. Then the tensioner fully extends to tighten the whirring camchain. The tensioner's extended piston is prevented from collapsing while running by the steel ball check valve holding oil pressure when the driving load cycles to negative from the closing valve spring driving the cam faster (like the older tensioners did). All future startups should be quiet or get quiet real quick. It cannot over tighten the chain because oil pressure actuates it, while very slow static leakdown allows any excess pressure to be released.

From an engineering standpoint, it appears they went conventional and on-the-cheap for the first OilHeads. Those RPM dependent characteristic chain cycling noises we know all too well should not be there. They should not have made it thru Beta testing. They say it's OK, (TADT) but that cyclic whipping takes it's toll on tensioner chain guides and wears out the cycling tensioners too.

What a relief it was to have that new model tensioner make my OilHead sound like a quiet new engine at any speed!

.

[edbikerii]

yes, Zombie thread, I know. I just replaced mine today. It was very easy and simple to do without removing any other parts from the bike.

My bike has 30727 miles on the clock, and was making an annoying clacking sound at startup for a second or so, which was worse when hot and left sitting for a few minutes. Also, when running hot in traffic it seemed pretty noisy.

I used a 6-point 17mm 3/8" drive socket, a universal socket, then a 3" extension, and finally 3/8" drive ratchet. Up in front of the Telelever pivot. Ensured that the socket was squarely on the tensioner head. A firm twist easily broke the bond. I easily pulled out the tensioner housing by lifting it up in front of the Telelever arm and then letting it drop out to the rear of the cylinder. The old spring was simple to just pull out by hand. I used a small magnet to pull up the remaining steel plunger part of the tensioner. Don't drop the magnet. Better yet, get yourself one of those magnet-on-a-stick doohickeys.

I put some clean motor oil inside the new tensioner while reassembling, pushed it up and under the Telelever pivot, and allowed it to drop into the opening as an assembly. A little pressure down on the ratchet allowed me to turn it and get it seated. It was a little shaky to know for sure if it was tight enough, but I feel pretty confident. Just make sure the socket remains square on the tensioner housing.

The old tensioner clearly relied upon the spring for tension, and the force required to compress that spring is MUCH lower than the force required to compress the new tensioner. The spring clearly fatigues over the years/miles. I also think the new tensioner relies upon hydraulics more than the old design, as it does not have the oil relief groove in the side of the plunger.

I haven't yet ridden it in traffic and hot conditions, but it sure is much quieter at startup. There is no clacking whatsoever. I'm looking forward to taking her for a ride on Wednesday.

My bike is a 2004 R1150R, and the old tensioner had a 17mm head. The new one from Rubber Chicken Racing has a 15mm head. The parts cost $91, and shipping was $5.95. The whole job took about 30 minutes. So far, I'm happy because it started up beautifully and quietly, and even seemed to idle better (but maybe I'm crazy).

Edward

[MMH]

My 2002 R1150R has 31K miles. The valve train is quiet, but should the tensioner be replaced as anyway? I just bought the bike & do not know if this has already been done.

[trickytree]

Check the hex head size....old is 17mm, new one is 15mm.