Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

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CycleRob
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Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by CycleRob »

Generator. A brand new 1000W 50cc Yamaha EF1000iS inverter generator from Cabela's on the net. Call it an early Christmas present to myself. They had the best deal considering it's much higher $879 MSRP. It's to be used for minimal house power when the electric grid goes dead for overnite and more. The power sometimes goes out here 2 or 3 times a year for time-outs of 20 minutes, 2.5 hrs and 5.5 hrs. As I recall, for no apparent reason either, as it was good, "no jacket" weather. In 2005, the 2nd week in our new house an ice storm took out the power for just under 12 hrs! For 11.6 hrs of that time we were on Honda generator power. At best I measured it at .35 gal/hr lightly loaded.

This website has all the data about the Yammie:
http://www.hayesequipment.com/yamaha_ge ... 1000is.htm

Informative YouTube videos from amateurs found on the net:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOc1cGdJiw4 Dude! it's .66 GALLONS, not .6 Liters!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6c3gLLagX8 Uh, you mean "Watts", not Volts.

I got this little Yamaha primarily for quiet overnite power to keep the refrigerator and chest freezer running during a serious power outage. 12 hours at 1/4 load on a full .66 gallon tank is unbelievable. So is 4 hrs at 900W. It also can be running "on line" in 5 minutes. I already have the excellent 3,000W continuous Honda EM3500 generator for the higher daytime power needs (microwave or stovetop + satelite TV + lights + freezer + kitchen refridge + ceiling fan), but the thrumming moan it makes is a just too loud for sleeping. A time when only the refrig + freezer + maybe woodstove fan need power. It also takes at least 10 minutes to move it, gas it up and hook it up. It's real heavy to wheel around too.

That's where this little gem comes in. Just got it Nov 30 and took it apart on the kitchen table before even starting it up. You'll see the yellow "No oil" tag in the pics. Why? Because every GD place I looked for the valve adjust specs refused to list it. :oops: [-X I'd have to buy the expensive manual now, instead of later, or try and coerce the Yamaha Service dept to look it up and tell me. Truthfully, the real reason is I wanted to see what's inside it and where the clearances were set by the factory production line. I found the typical tiny 4-stroke engine's minimal clearances:
In: .05mm
Ex: .07mm

Then, for history and my own satisfaction, I broke out the camera, took these shots and added in the text with IrfanView:

The unit
The basics
Top view
Intake port
Valve gear-1
Valve gear-2
Valve cover
The side
Carb-1
Carb-2

Here's a pic of the Cut Away.
The alternator is the narrow one on the right side of that pic and it's part of the motor.

OK. Poured in the oil over the valve gear until it showed up in the filler opening, then put it all back together. No worries about a dry top end startup now! Even tipped the whole unit all 4 ways so every bearing would be flodded with oil. Added about 1/3rd tank of gas and got it ready to go. Because the gastank, carb bowl and fuel lines were bone dry, I knew it would take many pulls of the recoil start for the crankcase air pulses to oscillate the fuel pump diaphram enough to pump the required fuel, and it took 8. The carb is pretty high and the fuel pump check valves could stop any siponing, so the recoil is the easy way to prime the system. When it started I couldn't believe my ears! It was really really quiet!! Let it run until it warmed up and then it idled down. Then I tried some low power plug-ins like a 1/2" drill and a small 10" fan. They barely made it labor or change RPMs. It's a new motor, so I let it run while playing with the Eco throttle switch to vary the RPM's. Very impressive, with the quality feel and sound of an extremely well made, expensive machine. It's like Acura made it. You feel it just pulling the choke knob in-&-out (engine off). Smooth as silk and very solid. There's no clicking, ticking or clattering emanating from the running 50cc motor, electrically loaded or not. Definitely not made to a price point like all those under $200 Chinese models, or even the cheaper $500 1KW inverter models made by other familiar U.S. Mfgr brands. You get what you pay for.

After about 1.5 hrs runtime on a few shut down, cool off, start-up agains, I tried it on our medium sized Kenmore chest freezer in the basement. I turned freezer's thermostat to "Max" for my extended run test. It had been unplugged long enough to bleed down the pressure and the internal temp went from +9F to +17F. At full rated speed it reved higher and roared about 2 seconds for the compressor to startup, then unloaded. I thought it popped the electronic overload circuit, but the freezer was running. Activated the Genny's Eco switch and it went almost to an idle. The Kill A Watt power meter I plugged it into said there was a 120W draw. After an hour it was down to only 73W, with the compressor still eartest-to-chestwall confirmed to be running. Terminated test with -9.8F freezer internal temp. I carried it with 1 hand, still running, back up to the garage, marveling over the powerful gyroscopic forces it had at an idle. Plugged in an old 7.25" circular saw that took it to it's overload light flashing limits on the start-up, almost 3 seconds of it. Then the saw gradually went from fast speed to full speed with no more flashing overload light, implying wood cutting would have to be with a slow-n-light feed speed.

The final test was to start-n-run our kitchen's 21 cu ft Bottom-Freezer Amana Refrigerator (energy star compliant). The Yam Genny is supposed to be capable of 3 times the rated load (3 x 900W = 2,700W) for 3 seconds for start-ups of electric motors, so it should be able to do it. I already measured the fridge drawing 120W from the kitchen GFI outlet for the running Watts and just over 1800 starting Watts. The real world test is starting the freezer and refridgerator sequentially and leaving the Genny control on Eco idle overnite when the power is still out. It's a challenge because the freezer only has a compressor and the fridge has that plus the induction motor condensor fan. My other Genny, a brand new looking, 21 year old, much noisier EM-3500 Honda recently started both cooling appliances, several lights, DVR hardrive and a ceiling fan with one louder 2 second exhaust roar. On a 14 gage extension cord out the back door the little Yammie started that big kitchen refrigerator EASIER than the smaller chest freezer! I left it running 3 hours on Eco idle and it had no trouble starting it from low RPM's. Those tests put together tell me the little blue suitcase generator will do exactly what I got it for and then some. So far I am very pleased with it's quiet Mighty Mouse power and REALLY impressed with the brilliance of inverter generator technology!!


FYI: If you need a generator, spend the extra money and get the best "inverter" Genny $,$$$ can buy. It's a proven long term investment that WILL save your sanity, expensive frozen food, costly refrigerated items and give you TV with lights and comfort in ways the cold, darkened neighbors will hate you for. Savy operators know how to "off" the home's main breaker and safely back feed a 240V dryer outlet (in an emergency, of course :-" ) so everything in the house works!! I spent a grand in 1988 for the premium grade EM-3500 Honda Generator and it never let us down . . . about a dozen very critical times!! :smt026 :smt055 :smt023

No, I haven't lost it. I rode My F800-ST yesterday and today on errands and really liked riding it in the cold weather. Yes, I'm really jazzed about my little blue colored early Christmas present. Like the trouble free Made in Japan EM-3500 Honda from 1988, It'll be around a good long time! =D>

.
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by boxermania »

Isolation, cold weather and a lot of time in your hands is pushing you to the brink of insanity.

I can't believe that you bought a Yamaha with overhead valves and no overhead cam.....pushrods and rockers. Robbie, that's preposterous.....you should be ashamed, regressing instead of progressing.
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by iowabeakster »

Neat-o Rob,

I've been wishing Santa brings me a generator for Christmas, since we opened up our store. I did a cursory count of the watts needed to just to protect the "cold" inventory or to stay operating for a short time: walk-in cooler, 0 degree freezer, two other large refridgerated units, the exhaust hood fan, minimal flouresent lighting, and credit card machine.

To stay operational for a full day: I need to add a 5hp 3-phase rotary converter for the mixer and (in the summer) two air condtioning units , and another 1hp exhaust fan.

I came to realize that I would need to lose the inventory several times to equal the cost of such a generator. :(

But if most of the town lost power...Business would be amazing! We had a tornado that tore a path through the middle of town a few years ago and we didn't lose power at our store...you couldn't hang up a phone line without it ringing instantly.
I was dreaming when I wrote this, forgive me if it goes astray...
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by CycleRob »

Boxermania,
I know you're just razzing me, but Yamaha made the engine configuration decision. It revs to 7,500 RPM, the stratosphere for power equipment. The durability of this engine/alternator is proven. One EF1000iS owner reported on the Yamaha generator chatboard (yes, there is one) using it 10hr/day x 16 months running.

My self propelled mower and 2,500 psi power washer both have the same brilliantly designed OHC GCV-160 Honda engine. It has a toothed rubber OHC belt running in the crankcase oil and a black plastic camshaft. My little Yamaha also has a plastic gear driven plastic camshaft. I believe Briggs & Stratton was the first to use plastic camshafts and lobes many years ago. The stresses are low, friction is near non existant, dimensions are precise and cost to manufacture is near nothing. Kart racers would heat and twist the shaft to change lobe center cam timing.

About the old fashion OHV with rockerarms, it's rated to run 12 hours pushing 225 Watts on .66 gallon (2.5L) gasoline. That computes to 18.18 hrs/gal @ 225 Watts loading.

.
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by boxermania »

Yes, Robbie, I'm pulling your leg, we are both well aware of the good designs of Yamaha, Honda and the others in the know. I do enjoy, as you are well aware, to egg on my friends.
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by CycleRob »

After about 5 hours run time I changed the oil. Schedule says change it after 20 hours. It only takes 320cc's so 1 quart will gimme almost 3 oil changes! Using conventional 10W-30 SF class oil as specified. The old oil looked OK, with zero glitter or particles. It used zero oil. In fact, it seemed to gain from the original oil level. Valve check is scheduled for 300 hours runtime. I rechecked them now at 5 hours, worrying about the tight clearances I found on day 1. Remember the never run settings I measured? In: .05mm, Ex: .07mm. On the recheck after 5 hours the intake was right at the .1mm spec and the exhaust was at a looser .11mm. I reset it to .1mm. Yamaha knows where to set the valves just so they end up being where they should be after the engine runs a while.

Every time I run it I still cannot believe how quiet it is, especially when the exhaust is facing the other way. Much quieter than our kitchen's built-in Microwave. Used it to power a 7" circular saw to cut small long dead branches to kindling lengths. It also runs the shop vacuum with just a startup flash of the overload lite coming on. No more fat, really long extension cords needed for those 2 items in peripheral yard work.

Modifications so far:
--Tiny Tach RPM/Hourmeter added.
--Bridged terminal DPDT 15A toggle switches added on AC and DC outlet supply lines.
--Extra "always on" single AC outlet added to power clamp light illuminating generator area at night.
--Flow porting of exhaust pipe ID match up at the exhaust port. Basically, removing significant mass production flaws in the header pipe's necked down pipe cutter end with an eye toward improved efficiency. :roll:

Big plus: After running it with the gas cap vent closed off then fuel tap shut off, it stalls out after just over 3 minutes at full RPM. Drain the carb floatbowl and after a half hour cool down it can be stored in the house, with no odors.

It's 35F (1.7C) now and drizzling. I rode the bike 24 miles 2 days ago, but no way it'll be ridden in the next 3 rainy days.

.
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by jb44 »

Rob, If I may ask, why Yamaha over Honda.... price alone?

I have a Honda 3000i for house back up power, but it's much too bulky to throw in the back of the truck for use in the field.

I've been eyeballing the Yamaha and Honda 1000i and 2000i's to use away from the house. Most RV'ers seem to choose the 2000i Hondas....any thoughts?

Thanks.

jb
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by CycleRob »

jb44,

The choice between Yamaha and Honda is easily decided by the new tech dual core stator of the Yamahas, actually 2 separate 3 phase (staggered) windings (6 output wires) and a powerful permanent magnet external rotor that allows lower engine speeds with a heavier throttle opening . . . . where it's quieter and more efficient. Comparable to overdrive in your vehicle.

Choosing between 1K or 2K Watts depends on what you are going to power. To be safe the 2000W model will have no trouble with a circular saw, electric chainsaw or small space heater. The 1000W (8Amp) models will not operate a modern day 12 or 15 Amp circular saw. My old Black&Decker circular saw is a 9 Amp model and it's at/near the limit of my EF1000iS Yammies power output but it works with a slow feed cutting speed. A big 1/2" electric drill is no problem at all. The 2000W model can also easily power a bank of three 500W halogens. The best part about the 2000W Inverter is that it's really quick to power up the house and it's really VERY quiet for the overnite house power which is a lot lower than the daytime loading.

My EF1000iS weighs 30 pounds gassed/oiled up. The EF2000iS will be like 51. I didn't want to spend a lot of money, but if I had it to do over again, I'd spend the extra $200 and get the EF2000iS so I'm not so close to the overload limit for it's intended purpose. I've had the overload lite flashing for 2 seconds, but it has yet to be overloaded enough to trip the electronic circuit breaker (over 4+ seconds). If you're camping, especially on a 2 week'r, I believe the EF1000iS is the best you can buy. The very low sound level, phenomenal fuel efficiency and lightest of all weight make it easy to take along anywhere, on a whim. Whatever you decide, Be sure it is NOT a California model, with a "C" on the end of the model name.

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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by jb44 »

Rob,

I'm indebted to you once again for your expertise and attention to detail. There was a review of the Yamaha EF2000iS in the January issue of Cycle World, and that's the one I've decided to go with.

Thanks.

jb
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Re: Just bought a $700 Yamaha . . .

Post by CycleRob »

Glad I can repay you for your past favors. I saw that quickee review too and thought it left a lot out. You'll be impressed with the big power it puts out while not revving too much. The wide RPM changes with the current load are entertaining to listen too and it gives you an indication of just how heavily loaded it is. Yes they are expensive, but it is a long term investment that WILL pay you back with totally portable or backup house power for decades.

I recently had a need to use my new toy to power the house, on selective minimal usage, during my unexplained Christmas Eve 25 minute power outage I had. Stabil is always in it's fueltank because of unknown future periods of inactivity. It was hooked up and running in 5 minutes! It powered the kitchen bottom freezer Amana refrigerator, a 20" boxfan on medium speed aimed at the woodstove (our heat), the 52" high ceiling heat circulating fan on medium speed, the 46 inch LCD TV with SatDish DVR, plus 4 CFL bulbs and I later realized, a neighbor upsetting timer controlled 9 Watt string of white LED Christmas lites. Set on Econ Idle, it dropped down to 3,900 RPM on the LCD TinyTach with this load, down from the 4,700 full speed RPM. I was ecstatic that the little 50cc engine could carry that load without sounds of straining! Credit the dual offset stator coil alternator, that Honda does NOT have, and the efficient inverter technology for this capability! I was watching TV with lights and heat while my neighbors were sitting in the candlelit darkness with the just above freezing temps outside. Two vehicles on my dead end street roared past my house at great speed, probably annoyed by my Christmas lites and heading to a restaurant! Honestly, if it wasn't for the timer, that front porch Christmas lite string would not be on under generator power, while everyone else is powerless.

Here are 6 more pics:
Inverter1
Inverter2
Inside view1
Inside view2
Intake connector
Carb-3

After the break-in and 6 hours usage, powering the circular saw at full RPM now only shows one red overload light pulse for saw startup, while needing only 3,900 RPM with Econ Idle "on" to keep the 7.25" blade at full no-load speed. Using my little blue Genny "out back", instead of an ill advised combination of 50+25 foot 12 gauge extension cords, is now a good plan to power the saw when it's needed this spring to (hopefully) build a shed. I am one happy camper.

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