BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

okay, so tell me if any of you out there are finding that because of the handle grip/clutch/and signals on the left that one or all of these things are giving you an aching hand, numbness and tightness in the forearm. i am thinking this problem could be sourced to the grip width, shap and clutch being rather tight. the right side seems okay because the brake lever is much easier. i had a friend borrow my bike who reported the same problem within a very short ride. this is working itself into a tendinitis problem and i have a strong firm grip so its not a weak muscle thing here.
i was wondering how common this is and if other people have this...what adjustments you are making to address this issue.
a 20 minute bike ride is painful...i need to resolve this right away so i can ride again!
anyone have this issue?
is it common?
suggestions for modifications?

Julia

julia rose wrote:okay, so tell me if any of you out there are finding that because of the handle grip/clutch/and signals on the left that one or all of these things are giving you an aching hand, numbness and tightness in the forearm. i am thinking this problem could be sourced to the grip width, shap and clutch being rather tight. the right side seems okay because the brake lever is much easier. i had a friend borrow my bike who reported the same problem within a very short ride. this is working itself into a tendinitis problem and i have a strong firm grip so its not a weak muscle thing here.
i was wondering how common this is and if other people have this...what adjustments you are making to address this issue.
a 20 minute bike ride is painful...i need to resolve this right away so i can ride again!
anyone have this issue?
is it common?
suggestions for modifications?

Julia

Julia,
The problem you describe is pretty common. I didn't llike the stock bar on my `03 so I bought a set of barbacks with a straighter bar. I still had that numbness sometimes. What I have now, which works for me, is the Wunderlich touring bar. It's wider and the set-back has my cables at their farthest extension. It's not real expensive as these things go, maybe $120, but it's worth it to me. No more pain or tingling. A note of caution, the Rockster cables are too short for this bar, and even with my Roadster there was re-routing required. Doing this is not tough, but you have to disconnect the grip wiring under the tank. If you decide to go this way I can provide links to some good photos on the bar change.

http://www.wunderlich.de/frame.php?prodid=1624590

Isn't the internet great ?

I don't know if this would help you or not but they helped me.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/foamgripcov.html
or
http://www.casporttouring.com/store/mer ... de=GRIPPUP

Julia, if ergonomics is the issue then the barbacks might do it for you, I had the same problem, barbacks really helped me. I did use the stock bars. Getting the bars up and back made a big difference. BTW I didn't have to buy new cables or brake hose. I also bought the foam grips, my right hand used to get numb, that was vibration induced. I don't have any issues with my hands or discomfort now, the bike is a pleasure to ride.
Don

You might first try rotating the bars in their present mount, and/or rotating the clutch control on the bars. If I recalll correctly, the line of your forearm through the back of your hands should be straight, but you may find a more comfortable position through a bit of experimentation.

I presume that adjusting the levers wouldn't help, right? It seems as though you are referring to the tension not the distance.

Buckster wrote:I don't know if this would help you or not but they helped me.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/foamgripcov.html
or
http://www.casporttouring.com/store/mer ... de=GRIPPUP

My problem with this type of product is the insulating of the heated grips. I ride in the cold and wet a lot,

i did adjust the handlebars up more and the levers were raised up a bit as well. this made no difference. i am thinking that the grip should have more insulation and be thinker and straight versus tapered so there is even pressure on the hand and less vibration. and i wonder if the clutch itself ideally should not be angled out but more parellel to the bar so the hand pull is even across all fingers or not? my physio says your hand and arm should be flat with your hand about 5 degrees up on the bar no more. and the lesser tension of the clutch the better.


julia

I've not had this problem (other than numbness due to carpal tunnel) on my past "R" bikes but I have noticed that my GT causes my left hand to hurt quite a bit after some time with lots of clutch actuation.

Changing the angle of the grip (as some have noted) would probably have the best effect for you.

I've had a couple of RTs and an R and rode a GS for a week. But each one is a little different... and it's the "K" bikes that bother me the most.

Michael

Airman wrote:

Buckster wrote:I don't know if this would help you or not but they helped me.
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/foamgripcov.html
or
http://www.casporttouring.com/store/mer ... de=GRIPPUP

My problem with this type of product is the insulating of the heated grips. I ride in the cold and wet a lot,

YMMV, but I don't think you'll have a problem w/ the Grip Puppies, at least on the high heat setting.
I find these grips actually amplify/intensify the heat over a more evenly distributed area, altho they will take a bit longer to heat up. After they are warm, they also retain the heat A LOT longer after you've turned off the switch....
The larger diameter, cushioned grip has really helped me on longer rides......I went back and for 8bux bought a second set for when I wear these out.

I have experienced the problem. It stems from the reach to the bars being too long leading to shoulder region strain and keeping your upper arm elevated for too long and on a vibrating object, to boot. My arms are kinda short and I found that either solution, the barbacks from Moto Techniques or the Wunderlich Wellness Touring handlebars, worked wonders. If you want to test the hypothesis without spending anything, try riding while leaning a bit more forward than you have been and see if that alleviates the symptoms even a little. If so, then you need to try one of these methods for reducing the reach to the bars.

I'd seen the foam grip covers in the past, but I heard that they would inhibit the grip heaters. Now, you and they confirm that they work AOK with the heaters. This is great news, since I have wanted a fatter grip handle all along. So I hit the link and bought some - thanks for the tip.

Hi, Julia

How the Eastern Canada ride go?

Something else to do is to change the "throw" of the lever by changing its position. If you look down on the top of the clutch lever ( and the brake lever, too) you will see a dial with "1, 2, 3" on it. By changing the number selected you will change how far the lever moves to engage/disengage the clutch ( and brakes also). Maybe a shorter "throw" will help.

Hope you're well

John

dnat928 wrote:I'd seen the foam grip covers in the past, but I heard that they would inhibit the grip heaters. Now, you and they confirm that they work AOK with the heaters. This is great news, since I have wanted a fatter grip handle all along. So I hit the link and bought some - thanks for the tip.

I got sucked in too. I went to that sport touring site, realised it was the place where I was buying H4 bulbs last year and in a fit of madness ordered up a pair of Grip Puppies myself. We'll let them know how the grip heat works, eh ? My thanks as well for the link.

GT Guy wrote:I've not had this problem (other than numbness due to carpal tunnel) on my past "R" bikes but I have noticed that my GT causes my left hand to hurt quite a bit after some time with lots of clutch actuation.

Changing the angle of the grip (as some have noted) would probably have the best effect for you.

I've had a couple of RTs and an R and rode a GS for a week. But each one is a little different... and it's the "K" bikes that bother me the most.

Michael

I think the K bikes have some fixes for this as well don't they ? Seems like I've seen spacers to lift the controls, and the grips are angle adjustable aren't they ? I always liked the seat and control placement on the old KRS, but never owned one to find out how they really worked after a few hours.

Some people have had luck with grip puppies

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/mer ... de=GRIPPUP

Edit: I see someone already posted this link

RobMason wrote:Some people have had luck with grip puppies

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/mer ... de=GRIPPUP

Edit: I see someone already posted this link

I just got my Grip Puppies today and immediately rushed out to the garage and installed them. They're really nice! I think they add an excellent thick pad to the stock grips. The small 7/8" grip fits perfectly on the stock grip. I'll have to judge the effect on the grip heat later when there's a little cold to work with.

The only drawback is that it takes longer to feel the heat....once temp has been reached they are just as warm as without. Enjoy!! I know this has been one of the best mods for me, especially for the longer distances. I also use DJ's hair elastic trick between the grip and the brake fluid housing to help with constantly keeping pressure down on the throttle.

Buckster wrote:The only drawback is that it takes longer to feel the heat....once temp has been reached they are just as warm as without. Enjoy!! I know this has been one of the best mods for me, especially for the longer distances. I also use DJ's hair elastic trick between the grip and the brake fluid housing to help with constantly keeping pressure down on the throttle.

You reminded me about my cruise control problem. With the Grip Puppies installed my Throttle Rocker won't fit anymore. At least not right. It bunches up the Puppie when I try to install it. Perhaps it's time for a real cruise control. I tried the grip heat coming home this evening, It seemed to work fairly normally, although like I said it's really too warm. Still 63 degrees.