BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I have a 2002 R1150R with 64,000 miles. Daughter and I were headed down the road at 70 or so and the motor just quit. Had to get a tow as I have no idea what the problem is. Felt as if someone had turned the ignition switch off but the lights were still on. Took to a BMW dealer and they say that the fuel pump and injectors keep running when they should shut off and they have had it for 2 weeks and don't know what is wrong. Any ideas????? Thanks

dude, the dealership has had it for 2 weeks and THEY can't give you an answer?!!!
WOW!

I know there are electrical relays for all of the above... all that check out?
that's crazy!

Suspect a broken wire in the wiring harness near the stearing head due to too tight wire tires.

Welcome Jeff,

Yeah, what Al said above. It's a familiar story.

In the thread link below there is a picture posted by Cyclerob, those red arrow's are where to look.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10940

Jeff2008

First and foremost.....don't let the dealer touch your bike and find another dealer as their explanation is as bogus as a three dollar bill and worse, don't know how to troubleshoot the problem.

Took to a BMW dealer and they say that the fuel pump and injectors keep running when they should shut off and they have had it for 2 weeks and don't know what is wrong.

If the engine kills, maybe for lack of spark, but keeps turning and the fuel pump and injectors keep pumping gas into the combustion chamber, eventually the engine will lock up and at 70 mph unless you react really fast, I would bet on a spill. But that's me visualizing......

Of course, two weeks and no answer is also beyond comprehension.

I support, like the other posters, the broken wire or bad coils.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Could also be a clogged fuel filter. Your problem sounds like the problem I had in the spring. I also think that I may have had a bit of bad gasoline, too. I was back on the road within 2 hours of getting the bike to the shop, Mathias BMW.

Thanks for the reply guys. I appreciate the input. Over the weekend I talked to a lot of my riding buddies in the Houston BMW owners group and also looked at a lot of posts here. Everything indicates a wiring problem and I am amazed that the dealer does not have a competent enough mechanic that would know this. Closed until tomorrow but I will go pick up my bike then. Friday he said that it was probably the computer and the part is 1200 bucks wow..........

Jeff2008 wrote:Friday he said that it was probably the computer and the part is 1200 bucks wow..........

It is my understanding that computer or Motronic failures are extremely rare. On the other hand, wiring loom failures are common and can often be fixed with some solder and tape. I'd get my bike to another shop.

Could be the dreaded Hall Sensor. If it is then it should be obvious from the BMW diagnostic computer test. Take less than a minute to find it.

If it is the sensor its about 250 + a couple of hours tops to replace.

Dump your dealer!

Need more info about symptoms. When you try to start the bike, what do you see & hear as key is turned, start button depressed, sidestand retracted, transmission shifted?

Each step's observations are important.

I'll wager it's something simple, like the sidestand interlock.

sweatmark wrote:I'll wager it's something simple, like the sidestand interlock.

Very likely. That really wouldn't look very good for the BMW shop that couldn't figure it out in two weeks.

Thanks to all for taking the time to reply to my post. Finally got my bike back after it was in the shop for a month. They checked the computer and it had no fault codes. They checked the side stand switch and it was okay. They checked the wiring for shorts and found none. Last but not least they checked the ground connection and found it loose. Charged me for only 1/2 hour of labor and I am back on the rode. At least it was nothing serious. I should have been able to fix that myself but from the start I suspected something serious and so I did not even try. It took way to long for the dealer to find the problem but at least they did not charge me for all the time they spent diagnosing.

Great news!

You may not have the sharpest dealer or mechanic in the business.............but sounds like they're honest. A good thing.

wayne

Jeff2008

I'm glad you have your baby back.

Based on your original description I question the loose ground diagnosis, as I relate the ground statement to the main battery ground, as it would have affected all the powered accessories, unless it was the ground (brown wire) under the screw on the left side of the ECU support bracket. Did the dealer shared with you which ground was loose??

On another issue, is this your regular dealer and have you had the bike there recently for any repairs/service?? If so what was done??

Forgive me for all the questions but these mysteries drive my interest......

I have now ridden my bike over 600 miles since I got it back from the shop and it has not missed a beat so I am now starting to believe that they fixed the problem and that it was just a minor ground issue.....really was not sure on the diagnosis. That was the first time that I had been to that dealer and I believe that it took so long because the shop was so busy and I was not on the front line until I started squalking after 3 weeks and then they finished it after a total of 4 weeks.

Anyway still going strong....

Will a low pressure(~30-50 psi) leakdown test provide the results as a high pressure leakdown test? Also, with a high pressure leakdown test (100 psi), will you have to lock the flywheel/tranny down so that the pressure does not turn the engine over? I guess you can leave the bike in high gear, eh? I've never done a leakdown test on a bike, but some caution is certainly warranted.

PU