BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hi all,

Can someone post or direct me to specific instructions on how to remove the tank?

many thanks!

JC

Notes: when disconnecting the two breather lines...make sure you leave one coupler attached to the tank side and the other attached to the bike. Then when you reconnect you can't get them switched.

Be very careful with the fuel line disconnects...they are fragile. MANY people have suffered breakage. Replacement of o-rings is never a bad idea. In fact many have replaced the stock plastic ones with Metal ones....


like these
http://beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

good luck.

Link to instructions:
http://home.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/te ... emoval.htm

Many Thanks!

JC

jclanin wrote:Hi all,

Can someone post or direct me to specific instructions on how to remove the tank?

many thanks!

JC

I just took mine off today. You'll want to cut the tiewraps on the fuel lines to make it easier to handle the disconnects and the vent lines. If you are inclined, this is a good time to change the plastic disconnects and the swaged fuel line clamps. I saw that kit only had 4 FI clamps in it, there should really be 8 to replace all of them. The tank is only held on by a single bolt on the right side. Those push buttons will release the disconnects. As the others said, take them apart gently. You'll get a little fuel from them when you pull them apart.



Here's shot with the oil cooler covers removed.



Tank and covers removed.

Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. I probably should replace the disconnects. What do I replace with??

thanks,

JC

JC said

I probably should replace the disconnects.

Right on target - the platic OEM QD's will almost certainly let you down, usually at the most inopportune time. I and many others on this board, used the chrome-plated brass disconnects from Omega http://www.omega.com/ as replacements. The parts you need are:
FT-LCD170-05 Brass Coupling Bodies (inline) - 2 each
FT-LCD220-05 Brass Coupling Insert (straight) - 2 each

These are not cheap ($70 - $80 with shipping) but they are high quality, work well and should give very long life. Alternatively, you could forgo QD's altogether and use double-end hose barbs (also available from Omega) or simply a length of metal tubing to connect the lines.

You will also need 4 of the screw-type fuel injection clamps which should be available at your local auto parts store. You should not use plain hose clamps (band and worm gear type) as these will eat into the hose.

Charlie

If you have never done this before, the instructions in the little technical book that BMW provides are pretty good. Just follow them in order carefully.

Here is a tip:

I use some plastic drinking cups and number them with a Sharpie marker. When I remove the screws that the BMW book indicates as #4, I put them in cup #4. The screws marked in the book as #6 go into cup #6, etc. It helps you not to lose screws, and it makes it easier when you reassemble it.

jclanin wrote:Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. I probably should replace the disconnects. What do I replace with??

thanks,

JC

I just ordered these, http://beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html this morning. I don't know if it's any cheaper to order direct from Omega, but these were built into a kit with the clamps and o-rings, and I'm lazy this morning. Shipping was high from these guys though. Nearly $9. I'll buy 4 more clamps for the upper and lower hoses locally when this stuff arrives. I have some damage to the paint on the bottom of the battery box from that acid leak, so have to go out and look for some of that battery box paint. It was bad. Check those old batteries guys !!