BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Oil?

I've had my RR for just a few days over a month and it rained most of the first week.
Anyway, I've logged a bit over 1200 miles, mostly commuting.
When I got the bike the level was at nearly max. When I checked it last weekend, it was nearly min. I was suprised. It's not leaking, at least not leaving spots where parked.
It's an '02 and 40K should click over tomorrow. What's to be expected?

I think it's one of those..'They all do that'..things..

Try and keep the oil level at the center of the viewing glass..don't fill it to the top.

You need to check it almost every second ride.

You will find that it can go weeks..even months without needing a drop.

Then sometimes the oil level can drop suddenly.

At least they don't drip oil..well mine has never dripped a drop in 6yrs..

Using the side stand can cause oil to run to the left cylinder head and then when you start it you sometimes get a big puff of smoke as it blows out.

Maybe that can cause it to use oil...also oil can get held up in the oil coolers and give an inaccurate reading at the sight glass.

To get the most accurate reading the engine needs to be hot (at least 10-15 minutes riding)..and then stop and put it on the side stand for a few minutes.

This helps the oil to drain.

Then place it on the center stand and wait 10 minutes before checking the oil level.

I hope this helps some.

DJ

I recently thought that my oil was low, added some, then a day later found I was actually too high.. the problem being probably that I didn't let the bike sit on the sidestand long enough before moving it to the center stand , or it wasn't warm enough when I checked it. There was another thread on here discussing the proper way to check oil level and allowing the oil coolers to drain. I forget if that came to a conclusion, but obviously it's not always what it seems to be.

What DJ said except check your oil each time before take off. BTW I do a check on many things before take off. Oil, clutch, brake, air in each tire and my general checklist. Just like an airplane, takes minutes but could save your life. Can you guess that I've had a major spill?

Sometimes I think I own a different bike then everyone else here. Mine has never burnt oil (4500 miles). I check the oil every couple of months, or more, it is always in the center of the sight glass, before I ride, right after I stop and almost any time I look at it. I never do all the toe tapping and the other rig-a-marow everyone else seems to have to do to check the oil. I just can't believe I'm the only one that has this bike and the oil is just the last thing on my mind. Sorry for being off topic, but, I think I would get rid of a new bike that likes oil or can not be accurately checked. I really like the R but, check the oil every other ride??? I don't do that with my 40 year old Triumphs and Nortons. But, like someone said "they are all a little different". YMMV I never let the RPMs go below 3000 unless stopping, and I never ride when it's above 85 degrees with any air cooled engine, car or bike even the lawn mower. Maybe I just stress them less. Sorry I can help with the oil issue.

The difference between the top of the red circle in the sight glass and the bottom of it is about 8 fluid ounces, or a quarter of a quart. Not a whole lot, actually, out of the whole oil supply, and if your motor consumed 8 fluid ounces in 1200 miles, you're doing pretty well, frankly. That's far less than what BMW considers "normal" oil use for these motors, according to the handbook. Commuter riding, with all its cold starts and short rides, is what really contributes to oil consumption. I suspect that if you were to take a couple of 600-mile day rides, the oil consumption would be damn near zero.

Also, be sure that you're checking the oil after the motor has fully warmed up. That means that the oil coolers are hot to the touch. Forget the side stand shenanigans, you want to heat that motor up until the oil coolers are hot. That means their thermostats have opened up and that lets the oil drain down from the oil coolers after you shut the motor off. Ten-fifteen minutes after shutoff, check the oil level. Stick to the same oil-checking routine, too, every time: Hot motor, shutoff, bike on centerstand, wait 10-15, check.

Great thread and actually timely. I just completed my first 6 hours in the saddle. Came home, bike up on the centre stand and waited approximately 10-15 minutes. Bike is an '01 with 15000km on it,just.

Noted that the oil level held mid way in the window. So I added until it touched the bottom of the red circle up top.

Checked it out the next morning and noted it was down to the half way point again? Gremlins, oil suckers from space?? I didn't add anymore for fear of adding too much.

Is the drop in level normal?

Gary

Drop from hot oil to cold oil can be enough to move across the site glass.

Worth sayin' again: middle of the sight glass - when warm. Higher, as in top of the sight glass or just touching the top circle, will eventually burn off or migrate into the air cleaner area.

The phenomena of oil high or full one ride followed by low or not visible next ride is one of two things (in a properly maintained bike) 1) burn off of the lighter, more volatile fluids which occurs as the oil separates after sitting for several weeks unused, then used in a hot, vigorous ride or 2) oil still up in coolers and not yet showing.

Best rigamarole technique was Patrick's: ride hard and hot for 15-20 miles. Park on side stand. Wait 7 minutes. Park on center stand and read the level hot. Should be middle of the sight glass.

It is still superior on these bikes when compared to the F650, G650 versions. The easiest these days is the K1200 series--- read the view straw on side stand, center stand, hot or cold...it is well calibrated and easy to interpret.

I have never added oil between changes. I usually let it go 3k mi. And it is still well within the circle. I think the people that consume oil to the point that they have to add, probably didn't break-in properly. I have 25kmi on My 04' r1150r and it uses very little oil. I use Castrol gtx 20w-50 since the 600mi service and it's always clean when I change it. I have over 400kmi on My 81 320i and have never used anything but castrol gtx 20w-50 since new. I am a believer in religious oil changing.

I still believe that you should just check the oil BEFORE you ride and not worry about it after you ride and hot-cold-sidestand-backflip-centerstand-7 minutes-touch your toes-10minutes-whatever!
Have fun and check it the next time you get on!

!

I agree with the Amsoil 20W50, it's what I use.


"Ride it like you stole it" is the best advice around.

This is all good information.
I did over 630 miles this past weekend, my first long trip.
I did determine that cowboy boots do not help my up shifting.

I think that I am blowing oil out of the filler cap. There is always a bit of oil in between the fins where it can pocket on the side of the head.

The PO installed an after market cap and I do not think that it seals like it should. It tightens with an Allen head drive.

When tightened, it still spins in the head, that is I think that the female thread is turning.

Anyone have any experience with this?

DJ Downunder wrote:To get the most accurate reading the engine needs to be hot (at least 10-15 minutes riding)..and then stop and put it on the side stand for a few minutes.

That's the key - make sure it was ridden, since warming it up in the driveway doesn't get the oil flowing. Always check it after a ride.

Aitch wrote:I think that I am blowing oil out of the filler cap. There is always a bit of oil in between the fins where it can pocket on the side of the head.

The PO installed an after market cap and I do not think that it seals like it should. It tightens with an Allen head drive.

When tightened, it still spins in the head, that is I think that the female thread is turning.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Go buy an original filler - they seem to work the best. Or get used to a little seepage.

You all seem very experienced with R1150Rs so I'll ask a little advice. I'm looking at a 2005 R1150R with just under 9000 miles - looks brand new. I've asked for service records, but what do you all think about a 2-year-old bike with that mileage? Priced under $8500. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

You all seem very experienced with R1150Rs so I'll ask a little advice. I'm looking at a 2005 R1150R with just under 9000 miles - looks brand new. I've asked for service records, but what do you all think about a 2-year-old bike with that mileage? Priced under $8500. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

It's only just run in... ...it sounds like a great deal to me...One thing for sure is that it's a great bike..

DJ

432

It's really pretty amazing how much oil you can "lose" out of the filler cap opening on these bikes... I had an '02 that used about 1oz per 100 miles until it had about 40k miles on it. On a 9-day ride I did, it started going through almost half again that amount and got up to nearly twice that amount. There was a small amount of oil accumulating on the fins and around the fill opening, but it never seemed like enough to indicate a problem. I assumed if it were leaking that much it would be showing up on my boot and/or pants leg, but it didn't.

So, just for grins, I stopped at a dealer and replaced the aftermarket locking cap I had installed with a new stock plastic one. The oil consumption all but ceased, after that I'd go 800-900 miles without adding any oil at all...

I have a 1200ST now, and really enjoy the fact that it made it from the 6k service to the 12k without getting low enough to warrant adding oil!

My experience is on par with what R1150rider was seeing.
If I'm not mistaken the PO installed the aftermarket filler to eliminate leaking. He also mentioned something about having a problem getting it installed. Anyway, like I said, it will not tighten and spins and leaks.
I will look into replacing the cap with a stock cap.