Ignition Switch Problem

[Riverside]

Maxine, after sitting for a good part of the rainy season here in Costa Rica, has developed an odd problem. When the key is turned to the ON position, there is a small part that seems a bit too far and the "dash" lights go out and the starter will not engage. Turning the key back slightly engages the lights and the bike will start and run normally. Fiddling with the key can result in the engine shutting off. I did make a 100 mile jaunt yesterday without the bike stopping suddenly along the way. I'm not sure how long that luck will last. I am reasonably sure the the switch needs to be replaced. I have a Clymer manual and managed to find the three different locations with the infomation needed to remove the switch and replace it.... at least I think so.
Has anyone done this before on a 2004 R1150R or similar model? Can I change the ignition switch without changing the key/fork lock mechanizm? I have noticed on the Beemer Boneyard website a complete top fork assembley with key and an ignition switch w/o key. Does the ignition switch that controls the electrical functions, insert into a housing for the key lock for the forks? On Beemer Boneyard website this appears to be a plastic housing with a cable and connector attached to it.
Does anyone know of a website that shows the replacement of the switch that I can use as a guide to doing the job. In place of that, is there a posted document describing the whole process? I am just hoping for something more intuitive and coherent than the multiple section Clymer approach. I also want to insure I am ordering the right part. It gets expensive to get the wrong part here in Costa Rica.
Any input is welcome.

[riceburner]

Sounds like the barrel is worn?

[Soliton]

If you need to do it, replacing the ignition switch/key barrel assembly it looks like an exceedingly tiresome job. The block holding the switch is secured underneath the triple clamp using single direction security bolts. The bolts are also coated in thread lock. To remove the switch block these bolts need to be centre drilled and eased out using one of the multiple techniques for doing so..... but

Imagine working on them. The whole process needs to be done upside down and at an awkward angle. Removing all of the headlight bracketing will help to clear the space. I have considered doing this as part of a bigger project and the decision (my opinion only) is that if I go down this road I will get a professional to do the bolt removal.

I did it on a triple clamp that was free of the bike and it was still pesky.

A seperate issue (maybe not applicable where you live). I would also document the whole process including receipts dates etc. In Australia (in certain situations) cars and motorcycle can be subject to "closed inspection". The intent is to see if they have been stolen and rebirth. If this happens and there are obvious modifications to features designed specifically to prevent easy modification it is good to have the "why, when, where and who" documented.

There may be other tricks that more mechanically minded folk know to ease the process but I would check every other possible thing before going down this route.

Rs,

Sol