BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

riceburner wrote:Holy Ducting Batman!!

Is that the best location for the air-filter and intake? That's going to be pretty exposed to road grit and any water spray - even with the rear bodywork in place.
Wouldn't it be better to have the open air filter at the join point just under the right fuel injector? (or somewhere less likely to have dirty air) Or is there a 'tuned length' requirement for the blower inlet manifold?

I didn't ask about a tuned length, but I do know the development bike is a 1150GS that regularly travels across Europe, in to the mountainous regions in all weathers, and it has not reported any adverse effects of the filter location.

And this bike will very rarely see rain unless I get caught in a shower when I am out. Time will tell how it performs

TheHeretic wrote:

riceburner wrote:Holy Ducting Batman!!

Is that the best location for the air-filter and intake? That's going to be pretty exposed to road grit and any water spray - even with the rear bodywork in place.
Wouldn't it be better to have the open air filter at the join point just under the right fuel injector? (or somewhere less likely to have dirty air) Or is there a 'tuned length' requirement for the blower inlet manifold?

I didn't ask about a tuned length, but I do know the development bike is a 1150GS that regularly travels across Europe, in to the mountainous regions in all weathers, and it has not reported any adverse effects of the filter location.

And this bike will very rarely see rain unless I get caught in a shower when I am out. Time will tell how it performs

Ah - ok - interesting that it's been used on a GS.

Hi

I have added some pics of the development bike (even though i am having to undertake some development as my bike is a twin spark.

HI All

sorry for the lack of updates recently, just changed jobs and life has been a bit hectic, there is progress on the Heretic though, I just haven't really had time to document it or update with good pictures , i will try to update this week-end with a decent camera

I have taken a few with my phone and basically all that is left to do is the following

Make up the aftermarket ECU loom

Replace the new indicators (the LED ones are far too small once i see them fitted)

Paint the body work

Lace the spoked wheel up and true them

Make the shift revers-er to allow me to run "race-shift" which is down to go into a higher gear and up to go into a lower gear, ( I have basically had race bikes all my life and this style of shift pattern is all I know and like)

Get the whole thing lugged to the Dyno and start mapping so im hoping to get it up and running in the next few weeks weather/motivation permitting

some not so great update pics sorry


Oh and if anyone is taking their bike apart and decide to test their electrical circuits... install the starter solenoid wire !!! if you don't the horn wont work !!!!!!!!
Don't ask how I know or how long it took me with my multi meter tracking down my "fault" Which I thought I had after stripping the motronic wiring our of the standard loom, I purposely left the bloody wire off after testing the starter to prevent me accidentally operating the starter if I had made a mistake when I was testing the bikes wiring systems, I didn't feel so bad after I found the "fault" as it meant that my very major surgery on the wiring loom was ok and all systems were fully operational yaaaaaaaaaaa

Awesome build Heretic!

Question - what is that thing in front of your battery where the ABS unit would normally go?

ekyang wrote:Awesome build Heretic!

Question - what is that thing in front of your battery where the ABS unit would normally go?

That is the aftermarket ECU mounted on an aluminium heatsink, the heat sink is bolted to where the standard motronic ecu would fit but instead of facing forwards as the motronic does, for ease of wiring the unit into the bike I have faced it to the rear. The shape of heat sink has allowed me to mount the external MAP ignition amplifier under the lip making it all look quite tidy.

regards

Hi All

Just a small update, the ECU is wired in and no magic smoke appeared when it was powered up !!!

doing lots of small tidy up jobs before I begin lacing up my spoked wheels and body work to paint then its time to try and start the Heretic up, once she is running she will be going away to be professionally mapped.

Wiring, I hate water getting in so all the connectors, joins & rubber glands have been rubber sealed in after testing the wiring.



ECU & wiring



Too many BMW's !! my Bike, my other half's Silver one And My black one




General shot of the install i am generally happy enough with how the build has gone, a few bumps along the way, but nothing major, and stainless steel almost everywhere, or titanium





Shift revers-er, its a simple device a bit of flat alloy bar, a few bearing 4 m6 rose joints & viola the direction changes

Hi All

Small update as its going on

I found a problem test fitting the body work bummer....





and the start of the solution.....

Nice recovery on the body work issue.. Looks good.

Awesome build. Contacted TTS re SC r12r build and they said nothing in the works for the immediate future. Are you running stock internals? Will there be water injection? That SC has separate oiling system?

Cannot wait to see this thing done. Glad to be seeing so much progress so quickly, bravo!

wayneosdias wrote:Awesome build. Contacted TTS re SC r12r build and they said nothing in the works for the immediate future. Are you running stock internals? Will there be water injection? That SC has separate oiling system?

Cannot wait to see this thing done. Glad to be seeing so much progress so quickly, bravo!

the charger has its own oil tank, and oil cooler the charger has its own internal oil pump the tank and cooler can be seen in my pictures,

stock(ish) internals but the crank, flywheel,clutch & clutch cover was all balanced on our turbo charger balance machine down to 0.02 of a gram at work

pistons checked and matched for weight (heavy one lightened a little) rods balanced end over end

other than that a paddle clutch and heavy duty cover plate.

Im having multiple issues with the BMW Hall sensors (12v) and trigger wheel not wanting to operate at 5v when this is what my aftermarket ECU is looking for, and with my 60mm diameter 24 tooth wheel inside the original pulley the tooth gap is not large enough to give me a nice clean square wave signal on my oscilloscope, and wheel diameter is too small

An external 114mm 36-1 tooth wheel has been ordered and will be installed on the outside of the charger pulley with a Jeep Cherokee Hall sensor which will require modification to my pulley cover very slightly. all fun but this is my own development part and nothing to do with the charger really as it would run on the stock ecu with a power commander if needs be, but as I want to retard the ignition for Nos in the future i have to add an aftermarket ECU

hey im not doing it because its easy, but because want to and i can no matter how many curve balls it throws me

TheHeretic wrote:

wayneosdias wrote:Awesome build. Contacted TTS re SC r12r build and they said nothing in the works for the immediate future. Are you running stock internals? Will there be water injection? That SC has separate oiling system?

Cannot wait to see this thing done. Glad to be seeing so much progress so quickly, bravo!

the charger has its own oil tank, and oil cooler the charger has its own internal oil pump the tank and cooler can be seen in my pictures,

stock(ish) internals but the crank, flywheel,clutch & clutch cover was all balanced on our turbo charger balance machine down to 0.02 of a gram at work

pistons checked and matched for weight (heavy one lightened a little) rods balanced end over end

other than that a paddle clutch and heavy duty cover plate.

Im having multiple issues with the BMW Hall sensors (12v) and trigger wheel not wanting to operate at 5v when this is what my aftermarket ECU is looking for, and with my 60mm diameter 24 tooth wheel inside the original pulley the tooth gap is not large enough to give me a nice clean square wave signal on my oscilloscope, and wheel diameter is too small

An external 114mm 36-1 tooth wheel has been ordered and will be installed on the outside of the charger pulley with a Jeep Cherokee Hall sensor which will require modification to my pulley cover very slightly. all fun but this is my own development part and nothing to do with the charger really as it would run on the stock ecu with a power commander if needs be, but as I want to retard the ignition for Nos in the future i have to add an aftermarket ECU

hey im not doing it because its easy, but because want to and i can no matter how many curve balls it throws me

Have you ran the bottom end yet after balancing? Id like to do this as Ive heard that the boxxers run much smoother when the reciprocating mass is balanced.

For the Hall sensor your best option would prolly run a 5v modded to fit the cover. The bmw oem sensor is supplied from the bat or the ecu itself? If supplied by the ecu and the ecu input will tolerate 0-12vpp perhaps you could just source the sensor off the battery. If not you could limit it w/a zener. Again a 5v sensor may serve you better.

Please keep the pics and design highlight coming!

Salut
Wayne

wayneosdias wrote:
Have you ran the bottom end yet after balancing? Id like to do this as Ive heard that the boxxers run much smoother when the reciprocating mass is balanced.

For the Hall sensor your best option would prolly run a 5v modded to fit the cover. The bmw oem sensor is supplied from the bat or the ecu itself? If supplied by the ecu and the ecu input will tolerate 0-12vpp perhaps you could just source the sensor off the battery. If not you could limit it w/a zener. Again a 5v sensor may serve you better.

Please keep the pics and design highlight coming!

Salut
Wayne

I havent run it yet but i thought decent all up balancing of the whole shooting match wouldnt go amiss, it was 25 grams out of balance, and we corrected it by drilling holes in the counter weights on the webs

the hall sensor originally ran 12v direct from the BMW loom/battery, i tried limiting the voltage down to 5v from the battery and via a 5v ref from the ecu but i still couldnt get a decent signal.

so a known good sensor to run at 5v is the better option i think, i will bench test the new trigger wheel and sensor with my oscilloscope to make sure im seeing the required square wave before i fit it all.

dont worry i will keep the pictures coming and a start up video too

regards

TheHeretic wrote: the hall sensor originally ran 12v direct from the BMW loom/battery, i tried limiting the voltage down to 5v from the battery and via a 5v ref from the ecu but i still couldnt get a decent signal.

so a known good sensor to run at 5v is the better option i think, i will bench test the new trigger wheel and sensor with my oscilloscope to make sure im seeing the required square wave before i fit it all.

regards

Do you know the analog input tolerance of the new ECU? I wouldn't think you would be able to source the OEM 12v sensor via a 5v reference from the new ECU. Typically references are for signal conditioning and not meant for sourcing devices. You could buffer the 5v ref, but the 12v sensor wont work down this low and if it did, only sporadically. If you find that the new ECU analog input for the hall sensor must below 5-6v you could clamp it via a diode. Basically you would power the OEM sensor via the OEM method of the 12v loom, but tie say a 5.1v zener diode between its +/-output of the sensor or just between + and ground if its not differential. It would be ez enuff to bench test this if you have a scope. If it worked it would save fab time and be substantially cheaper than buying a new sensor.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fai ... CJUfrzLQ==

Just a thought

wayneosdias wrote:
Do you know the analog input tolerance of the new ECU? I wouldn't think you would be able to source the OEM 12v sensor via a 5v reference from the new ECU. Typically references are for signal conditioning and not meant for sourcing devices. You could buffer the 5v ref, but the 12v sensor wont work down this low and if it did, only sporadically. If you find that the new ECU analog input for the hall sensor must below 5-6v you could clamp it via a diode. Basically you would power the OEM sensor via the OEM method of the 12v loom, but tie say a 5.1v zener diode between its +/-output of the sensor or just between + and ground if its not differential. It would be ez enuff to bench test this if you have a scope. If it worked it would save fab time and be substantially cheaper than buying a new sensor.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fai ... CJUfrzLQ==

Just a thought

ECU is looking for 5v ref return

A new 5v sensor has been bought, after the cost of the project, a new sensor is a minuscule issue in the grand scheme of things along with a larger trigger wheel, as I'm out of the workshop all week I cant make up and adapter on the lathe until the weekend but its all in hand and a very simple engineering task, I will provide picture of the change to allow every one to understand.

Lathe and mill time is nothing but a pleasure and relaxation so I'm not caring about having to do it.

TheHeretic wrote: Lathe and mill time is nothing but a pleasure and relaxation so I'm not caring about having to do it.

Awesome, keep the updates coming

Hi Heretic,

My name is Clive and it's my GS with the supercharger you have in your post. Someone posted your project on the UKGSER.com forum thread for my bike so thought I'd drop you a line and see how you are getting on....... I had a few issues with mine but all is great now and has been since the beginning of this year..... I've attached the links to the threads so you can have a read for yourself on the modifications to my kit: -

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread ... percharger

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread ... ed-GS-1150

If you want to get in touch just drop me a line.

Hi Heretic,
Tried a couple of times to post and PM you but they don't seem to come through?!?!?
That's my GS with the blower on - if you want to get in touch feel free.
Search for the same user name on UKGSER dot com or supercharger and you'll find my bike with updates.
Cheers
Clive

So, what happened with the project?