BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

towerworker wrote:I've never heard of a clock spinning fast upon startup. The clock does have a "fast adjust" mode but that's only activated by continuing to depress the adjust button on the back of clock housing. That is indeed strange. Possibly you've been told this already but one service you definitely need to perform is an ABS flush/service. The iABS system is very unforgiving of lack of maintenance. There are threads around the forum on doing this. Not difficult but a bit tedious. There is also a special long necked funnel that is necessary. If you can't find the one pm me as I'm pretty sure I still have mine. My ABS failed so I pulled the pump several years ago. I'll send it to you. On the Hall Effect sensor.....if it was bad it would never start at all. I think you said it would run fine once you got it started with starter fluid? If so then it would not be injectors. Since you've replaced battery have you reset the Motronic? There is a procedure outlined in the book for that.

When you pull the fuse or disconnect the battery, the ECU will "learn" the full range by itself, as you work the throttle through the full range. But the quickest way is to turn the key on, don't start the bike, twist the throttle full open and let go twice. Turn the key off for a few seconds, then start the bike like normal. The ECU will have "relearned" the full range of throttle.

I'd also check for proper operation of any safety interlock switch -- clutch and sidestand. Just to be sure. On the starter sound, pulling out or disengaging.....I don't think you have any flywheel issues judging by the sound. And the starter sounds almost fine but might could stand being removed and do some very careful cleaning. You DO NOT want to remove dust and grime by spraying something like brake cleaner spray up inside the bendix gear assembly. But you want to get to the electrical part (solenoid and internal contacts) and make sure they are clean. If you end up replacing (which I doubt is necessary) an aftermarket new starter can be bought for about $75. A new BMW starter is closer to $500. I've been running an aftermarket starter for over 2 years now. It's been fine. If you read the above paragraph a second time you will see why I had to replace my starter. There is a history of the "stick coils" failing on many of the "dual or twinspark" R1150's. The bike will sometimes run but it may only be running on the lower plug. The upper plug has it's coil integrated in the coil wire/cap. Those are not difficult to check. Do a search on the forum on "stick coil failure".

Another possible issue that I don't think anyone has yet mentioned is "too tight wire ties" around the wiring bundles as they go up to the instrument cluster. Over time the continual moving back and forth of the handlebars can possibly break or damage some of the wires within that bundle(s). Again a search on the forum will give you an idea of which ties to cut. OK....hopefully some of the above will give you a few more things to look at.

Hope some of this helps. Feel free to PM me and I'll shoot you my phone number and we can talk more on the phone. There is one more fella that I hope will chime in. CycleRob........he's the defacto BMW guru.

Wayne