Warm rear brake rotor?

[Acpantera]

26 minutes to remove caliper, take photos, reassemble, wash hands, and post. It's that easy.

[deilenberger]

It's simple to post photos using Photobucket - and free. If you can email them you can likely put them up for everyone with Photobucket.

[websterize]

It's simple to post photos using Photobucket - and free. If you can email them you can likely put them up for everyone with Photobucket.

It's a 10-minute procedure so easy a cave man could do it.

[Acpantera]

LOL

[celticus]

Here is a picture of the bellows that Acpantera sent me. Burping them should be easy. Thanks.

Mark

[vodka]

For what its worth,replaced rear pads at 17,000 km.Lot of city riding. Replacement was with OEM pads..expensive!!. They are Brembo pads,for BMW branded Brembo brakes presumably. So buying Brembo (aftermarket ?= cheaper) will prob not wreck warranty.

[Acpantera]

The photo came out pretty nice Mark, thanks. We should note that I popped the lower boot off it's seat to show the difference between the two. They are sturdy boots and don't "puff out" like you would think, but they do trap enough air pressure to keep a constant drag of the inner pad on the rotor, not much of a drag, but more than their should be. Drag=friction=heat=wear.

[deilenberger]

I looked at mine today after a ride. I was able to pull the lip of each of them off enough that any trapped pressurized air would be released. I saw no difference in the amount of drag on the rotor.

A few points - the reason the inside pad wears out first is because it comes from the factory thinner than the outside pad. When I've measured used pads against new pads - the wear was actually equal on the inside and outside pad. The outside pad was thicker than the inside pad - but that's because it started out that way.

Any pressure in the bellows should be relieved as the pads wear since the bellows get longer as the caliper moves in the mount. And these are not thick enough, or sturdy enough that they wouldn't balloon out if they were pressurized.

Believe what you want to - I've burped the bellows and expect no change in brake pad wear due to it.

End of my discussion on it. You can continue if you want, but I'm not.

[celticus]

Tom Acpantera , I for one enjoy tips like that. I will try the burping on mine and I hope you are right. I have almost 23000 on my bike and am on the original rear pads so I guess I should change them soon. I try to use my brakes as little as I can and my rear brakes even less. If anyone has any tips on aftermarket reasonably price pads please let me know.

Mark

[Acpantera]

Right or wrong no harm in being thorough. Enjoy your cooler rotor Don.

[celticus]

I have about 23k on my bike and have never replaced the rear break pads. I can't see any of the little rings on the wear bar and I figure it must be time and a good winter project. I inquired about replacement pads at the local BMW dealership Destination Motorcycles in Knoxville Tn. and the price seemed a little high. They were $80 or $90. Is this what I am to be stuck with? I know good brakes are a good thing and all but........it just seems a little high. There are other brands also. Is there one of these that is better than than the BMW recommended pad or a brand that should be avoided?

Mark

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAKE-PA ... ccessories
Has anyone here ever bought brake shoes from a seller on ebay? I don't think my warranty is a concern any longer.
If I had a job I would just submit to their Arian will and pay the lagre price but I don't. We are talking a $40 or $50 difference. I was thinking of asking my wife for brake shoes for Christmas.

Mark

[celticus]

"Has anyone here ever bought brake shoes from a seller on ebay?"

Nobody?

Anybody?

Mark

[yim4]

I havn't purchased from this seller, but it looks like he is just selling EBC brakes. I use a set of EBC for my rear brakes (for the past 9k miles or so) and haven't had any problems. They've outlasted my original OEM pads already.

[celticus]

Does the price-$39.00 seem about right for that brand?

Mark

[yim4]

I think I payed 32 locally at a store, but looks like you can get them for low 20's on the net.

Here's the EBC catalogue:
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/catalogues.shtml

It looks like the model for the R1200R is FA363.

Looking closer at this eBay link, it looks like these might not be EBC's (more like EBC clones). It says:
"Equivalent x ref EBC FA363", not sure what that means (EBC equivalents??). The 39 price seems cheap since it includes the front brake.

If you do go eBay though, don't forget Bing Cashback which will save you another 8%.

[sandycruz]

Why not buy EBC pads from Ted Porter's Beemer Shop?

Here is the link:

http://www.beemershop.com/catalog/index ... 407f991b3e

David in Santa Cruz, CA

[celticus]

Thanks guys. I should have taken the initiative to find those myself. My sincere thanks.

Mark

[motoracer8]

Awhile back I drained the final on my R12R, and after reinstalling the wheel I gave it a spin and it wobbled side to side, I thought I put it on wrong and removed it, reinstalled it and titend the lugs the wheel still wobbled and so did the brake disc and the caliper about 1/4 " I could not feel the wobble when riding but the brake disc and caliper got very hot to the touch. Off to the dealer, at first look they thought it was going to need a new final drive, they thought mabe I had hit something but the wheel was not bent. I said I havent been doing doubles at the local MX track just yet, bike was too new, 4000 miles. What they found was the aluminum carrier that the wheel and disc mount to was not pressed on straight to the splines on the drive, it was not loose just not on straight or mabe the splined hole in the carrier was not punched straight. That part of the drive was replaced now everything goes around straight, the disc and caliper still get warm but not like they did, there sill must be some drag. Just for drill put your bike on it's center stand start the engine put it in gear and watch the rear wheel and disc assy. and see if it goes around straight.

Ken G.

[motoracer8]

Awhile back I drained the final on my R12R, and after reinstalling the wheel I gave it a spin and it wobbled side to side, I thought I put it on wrong and removed it, reinstalled it and titend the lugs the wheel still wobbled and so did the brake disc and the caliper about 1/4 " I could not feel the wobble when riding but the brake disc and caliper got very hot to the touch. Off to the dealer, at first look they thought it was going to need a new final drive, they thought mabe I had hit something but the wheel was not bent. I said I havent been doing doubles at the local MX track just yet, bike was too new, 4000 miles. What they found was the aluminum carrier that the wheel and disc mount to was not pressed on straight to the splines on the drive, it was not loose just not on straight or mabe the splined hole in the carrier was not punched straight. That part of the drive was replaced now everything goes around straight, the disc and caliper still get warm but not like they did, there sill must be some drag. Just for drill put your bike on it's center stand start the engine put it in gear and watch the rear wheel and disc assy. and see if it goes around straight.

Ken G.

[deilenberger]

Right or wrong no harm in being thorough. Enjoy your cooler rotor Don.

Unfortunately - that wasn't the case. One run I did I thought the rotor was running cooler, but I guess I just didn't use the brake much getting into my street and garage. I have checked it several times since then - in temps down to 30F - and the rotor is still getting warm. Not quite toasty, but for sure warm.

I think something else is causing drag on the rear caliper. It may simply be the sliding caliper design, or it could be some binding of the sliding bits on the pins they slide on. On BMW cars - they used a hard rubber bushing for the caliper assembly to slide on the pins. Some years they recommended a high-temp grease, other years they recommended no grease. I may give a try to some Wurth-3000 on the pins on my R12R, especially since they are generally protected by the bellows, and see if that makes any difference.

Do that once it warms up in the garage a bit - and mebbe get the bike up on the new lift for the first time