BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Trout wrote:

JML wrote:I'm very interested to see how those turn out once you have a light behind the red paint, keep us informed when you get them mounted (or attached to 12v power source...) If it works out I'd probably go this route.

Here you go. I'm very happy with the results!

(I know, the camera makes the lights appear amber, but they are very red in real life.)

That does look very good. All three lights are the same color, so I certainly believe the amberness is just the camera. That effect is exactly what I want to achieve on my bike, plus you have yellow running lights up front, which are probably more important than the rear running lights.

My only other concern with the running light conversion is temperature inside the turn signal housings. Some of the instructions suggest drilling a few small holes to allow air flow, but I don't know if that is just CYA mentality from Kisan, or if it is necessary. I think it would be easy enough to turn on the lights, let the bike sit parked for 15 minutes, and see how hot things get, and then make a decision about drilling. Hopefully the lights on the low Kisan setting won't be putting out enough heat to melt plastic.

JML wrote:My only other concern with the running light conversion is temperature inside the turn signal housings. Some of the instructions suggest drilling a few small holes to allow air flow, but I don't know if that is just CYA mentality from Kisan, or if it is necessary. I think it would be easy enough to turn on the lights, let the bike sit parked for 15 minutes, and see how hot things get, and then make a decision about drilling. Hopefully the lights on the low Kisan setting won't be putting out enough heat to melt plastic.

I did the heat test, at least on the front lights. I took a signal pod off the bike and set it on the bench. I put it on the power supply at about 13 or so volts and let it sit with a thermometer in the light compartment. I can't remember the temp, but it got way too hot for my liking.

I don't have the Kisan, so I don't have running lights at the front (yet). My understanding is that the Kisan let's you select full intensity running lights or partial intensity (reduced voltage). I suppose that the heat level would be more acceptable with a reduced voltage running light, but I didn't test that.

I read where too much heat in there can cause the plastic lamp holder to get loose and sloppy so it doesn't hold the lamp tightly anymore.

I have the Kisan SignalMinder and tried running the lights on the high setting when I first got it and felt they got too warm too, so I reset it to run them on the medium setting where they run sensibly warm, but not too hot, even down here (in Florida's heat), and yet can still be seen in the daytime quite well, even in full sun.

I was all set to get the Kisan Signalminder, and run with red turn signal/running lights in the rear. Then this report (PDF) from the NHTSA came out (summarized at webBikeWorld) which says that amber turn signals may be 20% better than red turn signals at preventing rear end collisions. Using the same light for running/turning/braking is not as good as using separate turn signals.

I still want running lights, so I think (unless I change my mind yet again) I think I'll do Lite-buddies which are LED brake/running lights which install inside the amber turn signal housings in the back. Then I'll replace my front turn signals with run-n-lites which convert the front turn signal 1156 (single filament bulbs) to 1157 (dual filament) bulb. The running filament is wired to run from the headlight bucket parking light, and the turn signal filament is wired as normal to the turn signal circuit. The primary downside with this is dealing with the extra heat generated by the always on front running lights.

If anybody has used or seen either of these kits, I'm interested in hearing your opinions.

I just installed the P3+ lights and are very pleased with the results. I mounted mine on each side of the license plate, but they can just as easily be mounted horizontally below the plate to accommodate your parking pass. The key is to get them aimed correctly so they will be angled to the driver's eye level in a following car. They are very bright and very conspicuous.

BTW, the NHTSA report you reference says in the abstract summary on the first page that:

The principal finding of the report is that amber signals show a 5.3% effectiveness in reducing involvement in two-vehicle crashes where a lead vehicle is rear-struck in the act of turning left, turning right, merging into traffic, changing lanes, or entering/leaving a parking space.

JML

I have had Lite-buddies on my bike for 3 years now, a quality product, easy to install and very bright.
I wired the Lite-buddies as brake lights by taking a feed from the rear light unit and the earth from the licence plate light instead of the turn signal as instructed. If you earth them at the turn signal the lite-buddies on that particular side will flash alternately with the turn signal.

Hank.

I stumbled onto these LED 1156 replacements the other day, thought I'd post them to the thread for completeness.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go/Ho ... l/IMID/783

It's a 34 red LED package shaped like an 1156. The LEDs are arranged to provide light in a hemisphere, and draw less power than a regular bulb. They're also $40/each. I haven't bought these, so I can't vouch for them.

EDIT: It seems the web site does some odd tracking, so if the link above doesn't work, Go to http://www.kuryakyn.com, Harley or Metric, Lighting, Lenses Bulbs and Visors, and look for 'LED Bulb'.

This may be your best bet - if its legal. I don't care. It works great and people can see me. The light rotates so people can see you. I'm happy for the $14 bucks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPINNER- ... ccessories

brem wrote:

Oilhead wrote:Brem, what made it tricky to install? Pirate advertises it as an easy plug n play.

it's the installation of the new part that's more challenging. Basically the hole in the plastic light casing isn't large enough to install the new LED board straight on, you have to insert the board sideways and then use a ribbon attached to the board to pull it back against the mounting point while you screw it down. It's a little hard to describe without photos (didn't take any when I did it) but I managed to get it done in about 20 minutes just by trying half a dozen times. I'm sure someone who wasn't doing it on the street with a Leatherman and a screwdriver would find it easier. I've been really happy with it since I installed it three years ago - no hint of problems and it's nice to know I don't have to worry about the brake light burning out unexpectedly. It also doesn't require any wiring or figuring out another mount point since it just replaces the original light.

I had about the same experience, a little tricky, but they do warn you about that. The rest was easy, and IMHO well worth the effort. I've been contemplating the Signal Minder, too, but don't want the
"dash" lites on all the time. Gonna have to take a look at some of the other flashing LED options just
for more visibility.

My solution may not be the brightest, but I'd say it trumps anything suggested so far as acreage is concerned!



I picked up a black Scotchlite kit from Cycle Gadgets last time I was in Eureka Springs. It's cut to fit system cases and is nearly invisible during the day. They also sell it by the sheet to cut your own for helmets, etc.

I realize it's not quite the same approach as you're talking about- but I feel much safer riding cross-country at night.

http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/pr ... sp?Item=RK

For an additional brake light, I am thinking of getting one of these super LED's that are used for law enforcement vehicles

http://www.vlsusa.com/cgi-bin/vlsusa/RS%2A02ZCR.html