Rear brake caliper question (CycleRob)

Post by **iowabeakster** » Sat May 12, 2007 8:23 pm

My rear brake is dragging. I know this is a common problem. I know that the pins need some grease. I wanted to do this before winter, when I had the caliper off for bleeding, but ran out of time.

How hard is it going to be to grease these things? Is this possible without pulling the whole caliper, and disconnecting the brake line?

I guess my real question is am I gonna need to re-bleed the brakes to accomplish this?

jamais · Post by **jamais** » Thu May 17, 2007 7:24 am

Go here and select BFD-Rear:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/

Post by **machew01** » Thu May 17, 2007 10:27 am

CycleRob is on his way to Marlinton, WV for the Bash.

mac

R4R&R · Post by **R4R&R** » Thu May 17, 2007 11:42 am

If you are talking about the pin that holds the pads in, no you won't have to re-bleed the brakes. The only other pins that I can think of that are on the caliper, are the bolts that hold the caliper on. The caliper should move freely on those, and no, you don't need to re-bleed for those either.

Post by **baltm604** » Thu May 17, 2007 1:24 pm

there is the single pin that holds the pads, it can be removed grease and re-installed without removing the caliper.

If I remember correctly, there is a clip that holds the pin, once you remove that, drive the pin out from the tire side of the caliper.

You have to reach through the spokes of the wheel from the left side of bike.

once out, use clean up the pin with sand paper or emmory cloth, grease and install.

Bill

jamais · Post by **jamais** » Thu May 17, 2007 2:16 pm

I find it much easier to drive the pin out BEFORE I remove the caliper from its mount. Don't forget to remove the retaining clip before driving out the pin with a punch.

Post by **iowabeakster** » Thu May 17, 2007 6:25 pm

Thanks guys,

exactly what I wanted to hear!

there is the single pin that holds the pads, it can be removed grease and re-installed without removing the caliper.

My concern about my pads and rotors has faded considerably. I was concerned after touching my brake rotors after a couple hours of highway flying on a hot day. The rear was hot, fronts were cool.

The next few days, at the end of my joy ride, I also gave the fingertip temperature test on the rotor, FD, paralever shaft, tranny, and even the rear wheel (no i didn't test the headers). ALL of them were pretty darn hot. My conclusion, the the cooler the day, the cooler the whole bike is, including the rotor. I think it was just "normal" heat absorbed from the rest of drive-train on that hot day.

And good for Rob,

He should be out riding, not answering dumb questions.

Post by **CycleRob** » Thu May 17, 2007 11:06 pm

The Old Clark Inn where I'm staying has free wireless net access.

To answer the question, you do have to remove the caliper to seperate it from the carrier bracket and grease the studs that go into the rubber bushings. It may not be needed unless you do a lot of rain riding and it's been many years. When I took mine apart for the second time at the 54,000 mile service, they were still pretty greasy on the sealed internal sliding surfaces.
The pin that retains the brakepads is supposed to run dry or it will accumulate a gunky dirtwad.

Here's 4 old pics to clear the air:

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake3.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake2.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... Brake1.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/ ... kePin2.jpg

If the brakes are serviced when they are scheduled you will not, should not, have any problems. I usually give the brakes an additional check-up when other work, like changing the tires, is being done. They're simple systems and a little busy work goes a long way.