Oil Changes, Calendar or Odometer?
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Oil Changes, Calendar or Odometer?
I won't be using my bike much more until the Spring so it is garaged for a while. I have had it for a little over 1 yr and have not had any service whatsoever. I bought it in Jan. 2006 with 900 miles and the previous owner had full service on it at 600 miles. There are 2100 miles on it now which means there are about 1500 miles on this oil, but it has been at least 18 months since it was changed. What is the consensus here? Should the oil be changed as a function of mileage or time? Also, is it preferable to change the oil now and let it sit for a few months until I start riding again or should the old oil remain in it and be replaced right before I start using the bike regularly? Also, I live in Manhattan. Is BMW of Manhattan a good place for service or does anyone in the NYC area recommend a better alternative. (NJ, CT, Long Island etc.)
2004 R1150R Silver
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ProductUser
- Lifer
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- Location: Mesa, Arizona
It's a bit of both (time and miles).
As oil gets old, it breaks down in several ways. The additives start to come out of solution, it collects dirt and other stuff generated by wear and tear in the internals, and the polymer strings start to break down. It also holds more 'corrosive' elements when old and burnt than when new.
For that reason, if the bike is going to sit for a few weeks between rides, it's pretty much ok so long as there aren't too many breaks. If it will sit for a few months, then store it with fresh oil as suggested.
The full fuel tank is to minimise (not prevent) the effect of condensation forming in the tank.
Both mileage and time intervals are recommended to cater for the breakdown of oil (collection of crap and loss of lubrication properties while it's in use) and undesirable effects of stationary oil (corrosion and gunking while just sitting around).
As oil gets old, it breaks down in several ways. The additives start to come out of solution, it collects dirt and other stuff generated by wear and tear in the internals, and the polymer strings start to break down. It also holds more 'corrosive' elements when old and burnt than when new.
For that reason, if the bike is going to sit for a few weeks between rides, it's pretty much ok so long as there aren't too many breaks. If it will sit for a few months, then store it with fresh oil as suggested.
The full fuel tank is to minimise (not prevent) the effect of condensation forming in the tank.
Both mileage and time intervals are recommended to cater for the breakdown of oil (collection of crap and loss of lubrication properties while it's in use) and undesirable effects of stationary oil (corrosion and gunking while just sitting around).
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193
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threebucks1996
- Basic User
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- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:02 pm
- Location: Richmond, VA
I would take the steps as well as put a charger on. My battery just died after a week and a half of sitting. The temps below zero will take a toll on the battery. I got back from the International Motorcycle Show in NY last weekend and went to start her up and it wouldn't. I will probably be buying a charger from Morton's BMW that plugs right in to the AC outlet on the bike.
Buckster
'03R
'03R
A different view
Where I live the big problem on any metal machinery stored in an unheated garage is condensation. I've literally seen it form on my lathe and run off in little rivulets. So I believe that the best policy in this area is to run the engine often enough to cook any water out of the crankcase and cylinders, and replace the oil in the spring to dispose of the inevitible water. Generally if there is a lot of water in the oil it will emulisify and make the oil cloudy. It will form a nasty slime/scum in the low parts of the engine.
Another option is to put a work light with a real 60 watt bulb under the engine and just let it shine. It will keep the engine a degree or two higher temperature than the rest of the environment and help avoid the condensation.
Also I keep a 5 gallon plastic gas can filled with fuel/stabilizer mix so when I get back from a short ride I can top off the tank excluding as much moist air from the tank as I can.
Another option is to put a work light with a real 60 watt bulb under the engine and just let it shine. It will keep the engine a degree or two higher temperature than the rest of the environment and help avoid the condensation.
Also I keep a 5 gallon plastic gas can filled with fuel/stabilizer mix so when I get back from a short ride I can top off the tank excluding as much moist air from the tank as I can.
- Max Continuous
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- Location: Ontario, Canada
It is both Time and Distance. Remember the 3000 mile or 3 month, whichever comes first speech?
As a previous poster explained, oil breaks down over time while sitting around in the garage and also collects undesirable elements. ( even more so when you introduce condensation ) Burning all that crap off is a good practice, however just letting your bike idle for 15 minutes is not going to do it. In fact you may very well make things worse. The oil needs to get hot! 180 degrees is a good target.
Personally, I store it with fresh stuff and then do another oil change at the beginning of the season.
As a previous poster explained, oil breaks down over time while sitting around in the garage and also collects undesirable elements. ( even more so when you introduce condensation ) Burning all that crap off is a good practice, however just letting your bike idle for 15 minutes is not going to do it. In fact you may very well make things worse. The oil needs to get hot! 180 degrees is a good target.
Personally, I store it with fresh stuff and then do another oil change at the beginning of the season.
- Max Continuous
- Basic User
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- Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Yes I would. The properties of the oil would have deteriorated somewhat over the storage period. It may seem anal but it costs so little and proper oil maintenance is so important. Some guys will even overfill the crank case during storage to help eliminate condensation, if running the engine or having a heated environment is not an option.celticus wrote:"1) Change oil prior to storage. "
Wouyld you change the oil again in the spring to remove any condensation?
Mark
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Rog(UK) - Yorkshire Dales
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How about creating a nice cosy environment JUST for the bike. Buy some sheets of 6" thick polystyrene and make a box into which the bike will just fit. Heat it with a 20W light bulb or similar. For fun, you could insert a thermometer through the polystyrene just so that you know she's comfortable. Just make sure everything is dry before boxing it up - and maybe take a peak to make sure everything is OK every week or so. Condensation will be a total non-event.
Ride safely,
Rog
Ride safely,
Rog
2004 R1150R Rockster
1978 Moto Guzzi V1000 Convert
1978 Moto Guzzi V1000 Convert
Padgett - Read the posts again. As oil gets 'used', it collects and generates all sorts of harmful contaminants. Not a problem while the bike is continually being run or being run frequently, but when it just sits around - different story. That's why fresh oil before long storage is a good idea. Saves the problem of corrosive oil 'gunk' doing bad things because it doesn't circulate and get trapped in the filter.
I ride an R1150GS Adventure with sidecar. IBA #39193