Brake Failure Light Stays on

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dhfriday
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Brake Failure Light Stays on

Post by dhfriday »

I just brought home my '04 Rockster, and I've noticed that the "Brake Failure" light blinks until the bike is in gear and moving. Then it goes out. I have Cervo ABS, and have never experienced any issues. But does anyone know if this is normal?
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Boxer
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Post by Boxer »

That sounds normal, but you better wait to hear from someone who has ABS.

Oh, and watch out for anyone hiding in the bushes with a rifle! :shock:
taosports
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Post by taosports »

Yes, it is perfectly normal. The bike needs to move a few feet to complete the abs check.
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iowabeakster
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Post by iowabeakster »

they will blink until 3mph is achieved. this is the wheel sensor testing itself.
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Sit
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Post by Sit »

Yes, perfectly normal for the ABS. It has to hit a certain speed and so many revolutions for the system to get in sync. Mine will turn off by the time I walk the bike out of the garage and then pull out onto the road. If you take off quickly, it is possible the brakes wont sync and the light will stay on. If this happens, stop, shut the bike off, restart and pull off slower. If you keep driving, your brakes will not be working 100% and you may find it difficult to stop once at speed.
dhfriday
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Post by dhfriday »

Thanks a lot everyone. I feel a lot better... except for the aforementioned Phoenix Crazies.
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qfman
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Other steps for start-up

Post by qfman »

Hi DH -

It might be useful for you to double check the start up protocol with ABS bikes. It goes like this:
1. With bike still parked and secure, turn on the ignition. ABS light will flash quickly for a couple of seconds while it checks the system. Don't touch the brake levers.
2. Once ABS light blinks slowly, you can hold the brakes on as you start up the bike.
3. As you pull away, ABS light will go out.

The critical thing is to let that pre-start check run or you might end up driving away without the servos working.

regards

Tom

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~lonergans/
dhfriday
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Post by dhfriday »

Thanks Tom... I really appreciate it. My bike did not come w/ a service manual, so my next step is to purchase one. Anything else I should know about the R1150R? My last bike was an SV 650, which is about as basic as it gets.
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qfman
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other stuff to know...

Post by qfman »

Hmmm- it's actually a good question - the manual contains some critical stuff hidden amongst a lot a safety related drivel.

Here's my 10 beginner's steps to the R1150R:
1. Don't warm the engine up - just ride off immediately
2. If you are new to centrestands the secret is to place your weight on the foot tang and pull bike rearwards. In really windy conditions the bike is better off on the sidestand.
3. Metzler Z6 seems to be the tyre of choice for most but you need to be particular about keeping the pressures up at 41R/38F. They are prone to slide/skid if not properly inflated
4. The best power/torque is available in the 4-5000 rpm range. Stick it in a higher gear and ride the torque band and the sports bike guys will struggle to stay ahead of you.
5. The ABS is useful for emergency stops but will not save you from crashing if you hammer the brakes in a corner. If you find yourself going too fast into a bend you have to find the courage to release the brakes and tip the bike in. You will be surprised by its cornering capabilities
6. When the low fuel light comes on you still have about 40miles (city) and 60miles (country) before you run out of fuel.
7. The cheapest way to improve performance is to remove the exhaust can. Torque is the same but engine will rev hard till fuel cuts out at 7700rpm. Noise will be 94db at 3800rpm (standard 85db)
8. Check the oil often but add oil sparingly. Never fill the oil so that it is above half way up the sight glass. I am happy to ride mine no oil visible but I will not ride it when over-filled. Oil has a way of hiding in the oil coolers so only check oil when it's had 15min to return to the sump.
9. If you have panniers, open and close the two handles separately. Never use excessive force - something is jammed so open, check and try again.
10. Most comon cause of non-starting engine is the sidestand cutout switch. D'oh!!

Hope it helps some.

tom

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~lonergans/
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gregor
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Post by gregor »

Yup,
Had the side stand down the other day for safety , before putting bike on main stand.
Forgot to fold side stand away. Later on,every time I let the clutch in to pull away the engine stalled! Took me three attempts before the light bulb above my head lit up.
2002 black 180 degree single spark V twin
dhfriday
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Post by dhfriday »

All good info...

-Warming up has never been an issue as I live in Phoenix. It's going to be 112 today. How well do the Beemers handle heat? I'm assuming they do much better then was implied in "Zen and the Art ...."

-My SV didn't have a center stand, and I have to admit I find getting the Rockster up on it a challenge. I'll give this method a shot when I next park it. :(

-I love the torgue of this bike. It took me a while to get used to. I was on the freeway yesterday, and noticed maye 500 RPMs worth of difference from 5th to 6th. At first I was wondering if I even had a 6th gear. But the wide band is as definitive as any I've ever ridden with the possible exception of the V-Max. That being said, I really have limited experience.

-Funny that you should mention the exhaust can... it came already pulled. I probably would have pulled it myself, but was very pleased that I didn't have to.

-Hopefully I get my paniers this weekend. It's time to get outa town.

-Figured out the sidestand cutout switch real fast. Now if I can just get used to the blinkers.

-So I assume you're getting about 60 mpg highway? That's better than some Posts I've seen. Excellent.
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fnfalman
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Post by fnfalman »

The aircooled boxer twin doesn't like heat too much. If you're moving, that's fine, but if you get stuck in crawling traffic without the benefit of lane splitting like in California then I really feel for the bike. Believe it or not, it's possible to overheat these boxer twins.

If I were to be living in Phoenix or Tucson or places that are similarly hot, I'd run synthetic oil.
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dhfriday
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Post by dhfriday »

Bummer. I was moderately concerned as they are not water cooled. Luckily I live in an area where I mostly travel against traffic. However, I think you're right on the money when you say install synthetic.
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Sit
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Post by Sit »

Dh, the center stand is actually quite easy to get the bike up onto. With the bike on the side stand, I step down on the center stand bringing the left (near) part of the stand into contact with the ground. I then rock the bike off the side stand while keeping pressure on the center stand, this ensures the both sides of the center stand are down and the bike is straight up. I then grab the frame by the rear foot peg, to help steady the bike. I then just step down on the center stand foot peg the rest of the way and pull back on the bike gently. It will pop up onto the center stand very easily, there is no reason to bust your back doing this, the bike is so evenly balanced on the center stand, very little effort is needed to get it there. To get mine down, I sit on it and rock it forward, I have heard of too many people dropping the bike trying to bring it down while standing alond side of it.
dhfriday
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Post by dhfriday »

yeah, I'm not sure why you'd try to release the center stand w/out sitting on it. I will try your technique for setting the center stand. thanks for the post!
leno

Post by leno »

dhfriday wrote:yeah, I'm not sure why you'd try to release the center stand w/out sitting on it. I will try your technique for setting the center stand. thanks for the post!
Because it is possible to knock the bike off the stand whilst trying to get on, particlully if you are short. Getting the bike off the stand whilst standing next to it is easy. You should try my CBF1000 it's like a bench lift to get on and even harder to get off. Why do people think the BM is a heavy bike, they are lots more mainstream bikes that are much more lardy.
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