"Balancing Tube" - who's got the info on this for

[elmosisu]

I've seen it mentioned a few times on this board ( DJ ) - but I would like to see if anyone can help describe how to do it. I'm a little unhappy with the vibration on my handle bars, after my 18k service. ( I did it with carb stix myself.......this is the first time that i've had a vibration issue).

any input is alway appreciated

[MIXR]

Basically a piece of tube that connects the two throttle bodies. Was done as a part of a fix for some significant surging issues on mine, and has been in place for 45,000 kms. Seems to have helped, but is not the whole solution.

These bikes are sensitive to good valve and throttle body adjustments. The balance tube just helps smooth things out, but is not a cure by itself. I believe it works on mine, but other 'experts' here don't believe it does anything useful.

definitely worth a try and can't hurt anything. We don't run the charcoal cannister here in Aus, and I think it uses those same connection points. Someone else will need to confirm that.

Good luck.

[DJ Downunder]

I asked my BMW mechanic about fitting a balance tube and he thought it was a good idea...he said BMW have it on the old K bikes.

All you need is about 2' of rubber fuel line hose.

It's a 5 minute job to fit it...I've had mine in place for well over a year now...it seems to work...well I have no bad vibes...here's some pics.

DJ

[Arbreacames]

The balancing tube is part of the emissions control on all US 1150's. It is connected to a solenoid and the evap canister.
You weren't talking about a making a water manometer, were you?

[DJ Downunder]

You weren't talking about a making a water manometer, were you?

Maybe you were....here's a link to the one Cyclerob posted... http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

DJ

[Arbreacames]

Don't you hate it when a poster loses interest in his own post?

[riceburner]

Hmm - interesting.

DJ - I assume those take-off points are the same as for when you're balancing the throttle bodies?

Could you add an arrow to one of those pics (or take a new one with your inimitable finger in shot )to show which screw you use to adjust the bodies? I've never seen a photo show this.

[elmosisu]

Sorry I was not able to respond. I was away from the PC, and more importantly, trying to sort out my vibration issue on my Rockster. I am looking for what I may have done "differently" to cause a high frequency buzz, at 3500-4500 rpm. I've dont the 6k and 12k service myself, with no issues, but this 18k, is KILLING ME. I've done OVAD twice!! and did the TB's prolly 20 times, trying to "tune out" the viberation. I'm assuming that the US Rockster/Roadsters, cannot have a balancing tube installed,because of the existing emmisions crap, and tubes. At this point, I'm looking for help just getting the bike to run without vibration. I'm using carb stix, and don't have access to a twin-max ( anybody have one in Bellingham,WA ?) the other issue is that i'm taking a 4000 mile trip on Saturday, to MN and back.

I'm looking for advice.

the only things that are different, from when the bike was not viberating, are

new oil - filter
slight valve adjustment
TB sync
lubed the front Telelever - Shock Bolt ( double checked tightness)
checked tightness on most bolts.

I'm stumped, and my hands wil fall asleep if I ride the bike 500 miles a day, when it is viberating like this!

advice is welcome

[DJ Downunder]

Someone else may have better advise but if I was you..and getting desperate.. I'd pop into any motorcycle shop nearby.

They all have those balance twin max thingies..4 cylinder ones (they only need to use 2)..and ask them to check yours.

It's a 5 minute job and should not cost much.

Just a thought.

DJ

[Capt. Blackadder]

Any chance you overfilled the oil? Could there be an air leak somewhere in the Carb Stix?

[MIXR]

OK - A possible solution that's a bit left field but has been discussed before - If it is a high RPM 'buzz' as you describe, then try the following little trick:

Loosen the handle bar mounting clamps just enough to be able to 'crack' them enough to move the bars.

Rotate the bars one 'notch' either forward or back depending on preference. The 'notch' is due to the alloy clamp bars biting into the notches (grooves) on the bars themselves. This also causes the bars to 'stick' to the clamps, so some slight force or tap with a soft hammer may be needed.

Retighten the bars, and make sure that the tension is approximately even across all four mounting bolts. You can 'feel' this and don't need a torque wrench.

A few people have previously stated that retensioning the bars or moving them slightly has helped remove the 'buzz'. This is different from the 'throb' caused by valves or throttle body imbalance.

Failing that, it may be a front tyre that is stuffed, out-of-round or damaged, or even a buckled rim. These bikes have 'soft' rims and there have been many bent on potholes and cattle grids etc.

[KHaynes]

With the balance tube fitted, it could even cause the pulsing in the tube to be counterproductive in diminishing the vibes. To do the job properly, the tube length should be tuned to the pulses at the speed at which you are getting vibes. This needs to be done with specialist equipment.
Alternatively, experiment with the tube starting with it long and shortening it by a few millimeters each time you ride. Make a note of the best performing length.