Adjusted the Valves - tick, tick, tick...

[UT R1150R]

Hey all, I used to be R1150R NJ on this board about 2 yrs ago. I moved to Utah so now I'm this dude.

Anyway, I finally got the courage to start doing my own maintenance. I did a lot of reading, bought a manual, tools, etc and then went ahead and adjusted my valves tonight.

They were pretty tight to begin with, especially on the left cylinder. The guage wouldn't even go in. Well, I adjusted them all so that there was a slight drag on the feeler guage like I read everywhere.

Now, the valves make a ticking noise. Certainly more than before. I'd hate to take it all apart again and start over.

Do you guys think I should be worried about this? Any experience or advice with this kind of problem?

Thanks!

John

[DJ Downunder]

I'm no expert...and I don't know what I'm talking about...but...did you do them COLD....not you..the valves..

G'day John and welcome back.

I'm sure someone else here will know what they're talkin' about.

DJ

[Boxer]

Utah huh? Are you Mormon?:-)

Anyway, back to the valves.
Per DJ's question: You have to do the valves when the bike is cold. Assuming you knew this, my only other suggestion would be to use two feeler gauges at once on both intake valves at once and then both exhaust valves at once. I was getting all messed up with one flexing one way and then the other back and forth as I adjusted. After putting a feeler gauge in each one, it seemed so much easier to get them right.

And take your time! Don't drink beer while doing it and make sure you have TDC for that side.

And then after you have them exactly the way you want them, you will still most likely have the slight ticking. The ticking only means you have them a little looser than before and a little too loose is better than a little too tight. But that rule only applies in this case!

[The Velvet Monkey]

Welcome back!

Hey, I just adjusted mine too and had virtually the same experience. The valves were too narrow to begin with (and the lock nuts too tight) and now I get a little more clickity-clack at low rpms. I only know that I checked them seven ways to Sunday with two guages in place and then even rechecked them, so I know they must be right. While I've read that some people don't notice much change, I experienced a much smoother running engine--but maybe it's all in my head.

Anyway, I wouldn't worry about as your motor is probably running like it should, clicks and all. Now you should do your TBs.

Good luck.

[jm1515]

It's my understanding that 'looser' is better than 'tighter', and that some noise can be expected if you've 'loosened' a prior adjustment.
I had the same experience with tight valves when I did mine, for the first time ever, @6000mi.
The left side, exhaust esp, was noticeably tighter than the right, and both were tighter than I left them when I was done. They had been done at the dealer during the 600mi check up, but I felt they were too tight.

I don't recall having that much more noise, tho.
If you were as meticulous as it sounds, I'm sure they are just fine....

[johnt650]

Just in case you missed a step, did you rotate the engine 180 between sides. I only mention this since you found the valves on one side with no clearance.

[gel9001]

I agree with John, the fact that you couldn't get the feeler gauge through tells me that the engine wasn't at TDC for that cylinder. You're likely having problems starting the bike as well. When valves are too loose that happens. No harm done, just redo the valves. Don't look at it as some type of chore since that will make the task a pita. Rather have fun with it and take your time.

cheers,

gene

[taosports]

John,

Like you, I recently did my first valve job, part of the 18,000 mile service. My valves were also tight - all of them with a few that my feeler gauge would not even slip in.

I'm no expert but I don't think you need to worry about the ticking noises if you were very careful in your adjustments. If they were as tight as you say, it makes sense that you would hear more ticking so just think of it as the sound of a happy engine.

I had doubts after doing my valve job because I was so worried that I may have screwed something up but after over a 1,000 miles on my bike it is still starting, idling and running smoothly.

Like DJ and those down under like to say, "no worries mate"

[CycleRob]

Ahh yes. . . . . Valves Too Tight.
All of them.
After adjusting them it's clicking louder.

A little alarm immediately went off in my head and 3 letters pop into my consciousness: TDC.

Before you recheck things and possibly repeat any mistakes, go here for the .PDF download:

http://www.advrider.com/Wisdom/OVADv2.1.pdf

and read the whole thing. It's written by the pros for novices. It spoon feeds you the proper techniques with many pictures while cautioning you about all the possible mistakes you should not make, WHILE you are at that specific operation. If I remember right, they even correctly recommend that you do not remove the SparkPlugs * until after the valve adjustment. A great piece of work.

* If you remove the SparkPlugs before valve adjustment, you risk dusting the open valve's seat with carbon dislodged from the sparkplug thread areas causing you to incorrectly set that valve too loose after the carbon is blown away when the engine runs. Because the valve duration is way over 180 degrees on almost every 4 stroke engine, the horizontally opposed OilHead engine ALWAYS has at least 2 valves open at ANY crankshaft position AND there IS one exposed valve seat below the sparkplug at both TDC positions.

[UT R1150R]

Wow, thanks guys! Now I remember why I like this place. I ask a question and so many people are willing to help.

In fact, a few yrs ago I posted here asking if someone could go to the NJ DMV with me for my riding test. (in NJ, you can't ride alone on a learner's permit). TonyT607 jumped to the call and helped me out. He's a great guy and fun to ride with.

Ok, back to the valves. To answer some questions:

Yes, the engine was cold when I did the valves. In fact, I hadn't started it for a few days prior to working on them.

Yes, I am Mormon but I only have 2 wives. One is my current wife and one is my ex-wife. I have no plans to change the status of either.

About the TDC thing (and 180 degree rotation), I think I did it right. For each cylinder, I made sure that the "OT" mark was in the center of the window. I also checked that there was a little bit of play in the rocker arms for both intake and exhaust valves while at TDC. After doing one cylinder, I rotated the back wheel in the forward direction until I found the "OT" mark again. Then I hopped over to the other side and adjusted those valves.

Yes, I took out the spark plugs first. I will take Cyclerob's advice and read the OVAD document carefully and do this again (without removing the plugs).

One strange thing - I changed the oil today and now the tapping isn't as loud. It's still there but now I hear what mostly sounds like the timing chains moving through the heads. I wish I knew exactly what sounds are "ok" and which ones are not ok. I guess that's part of owning an 1150R -- seems like the most frequent question is "what's that noise?"

Thanks again guys. If any of you are ever out in Utah let me know. I'm sure you would love to ride through our canyons and red rock country.

John

[jbuzbee]

16,000 miles and my valves haven't been looked at since the really expensive 300 mile service!!! F*ck that.

This engine is running like a scalded cat! I got air on the front tire going from first to second the other day. The engine is definetly making more juice. First gear wheelies are like a Ducati: just whack open the throttle.

I think you guys might be a little too anal. Just hammer the damn thing . . ..

jb

[johnt650]

I don't overdo valve adjustments, but I do follow recommended intervals.
I admit that I haven't found much change, but the bike in question in this thread was probably headed for a burnt valve. Valve adjustment on the boxer is so easy why take the chance?