Winter storage

biggums · Post by **biggums** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:08 pm

If I plan to store my RR in a non-heated garage for 5 months. Do I have to do anything special to the bike? I plan on putting Sta Bil in the tank and the battery tender on but anything else needed?

FGanger · Post by **FGanger** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:33 pm

biggums,

Are you planning on starting it at all during this time? If not, I guess the fuel stabilizer will work fine. I don't do anything for storage these days - I'm living in Northern Illinois. I just change the oil, top off the fuel, and give it a good cleaning. It gets warm enough to ride just enough times that I usually donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t even run a charger on it. If a month or so goes by without riding it, I plug in a trickle charger and let it run over night.

I used to store mine for 5-6 months a year. Now this was in Alaska, so we had plenty of cold weather. I tended to start mine a couple of times during the Winter. So I never used anything in the fuel. I did start the storage with a full tank and new oil. I pumped the tires to the correct pressure and placed the bike on the center stand. Every once-in-a-while I would charge the battery. When the temps went above freezing, that's when I started the bike and let it run until it got up to operating temperature.

I can see using a battery tender and some sort of fuel additive if one was not going to be able to start the machine. I used to keep two machines, one in Alaska and one in Illinois for the Summer. I did exactly as you suggested with my Illinois one, for there was no one to start it for me. However, I also took the battery out of the machine and stored it inside at room temperature. It sat for nine months a year.

One thought, when placing my machines in long-term storage, especially in the cold, I always used synthetic oil. Synthetic oil has a tendency to stick to metal better than "regular" oil. This helps to keep a nice coating of oil on the insides of the engine. Before I would start it, after a long winter nap, I would crank the engine until I had oil pressure, before actually starting the machine. I think I would recommend this even to one who is not using synthetic oil on a regular basis. It could always be changed at the end of storage.

Well I hope this helps, if you have some other questions please just ask.

Frank

towerworker · Post by **towerworker** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:34 pm

I assume you will put it on the center stand. Only other thing I can think of is to make sure you put anti-freeze in the radiators and get the old summer air out of the tires and fill with fresh winter air.

Wayne
03 r

Post by **boxermania** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:59 pm

After a long lay-up, irregardless of the oil in the engine it is advisable to remove the plugs and crank the bike over until the oil system pressures up. The majority of the wear on internal combustion engines occurrs during start-up.

biggums · Post by **biggums** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 7:55 pm

Thanks for the reply's. The bike will sit un-run for 5 to 6 months here in Montana. I guess the main question I have is should I change the oil before storage and then if so do you change the oil again before riding it?

Thanks

A guest · Post by **A guest** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:40 pm

I think fgrangers comments answered your oil change before storage

I think his comments on using synthetic during winter and then changing it only if you do not normally use synthetic make sense to me.

I'm not sure what boxer is talking about, with his removing spark plugs comment. I think fgranger also said - Before I would start it, after a long winter nap, I would crank the engine until I had oil pressure, before actually starting the machine. I think thats what happens when I have my kill switch off.

Maybe hes talking about something else.

Doesn't it get warm ever in Montana during the winter? If not, I guess thats why they don't have a big population problem.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:03 pm

biggums,

Hey, what the? You said Montana yet in another post you say you are in California. Sounds fishy to me.

But I'm just passing through, so don't worry about me.

Post by **Beemeridian** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 6:08 am

Post by **jm1515** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 8:20 am

All you Southern riders are lucky!

I intend to find some method of keeping the rear wheel off the ground and riding all winter...on the centerstand!

StaBil in the gas, and ride all winter.
My last bike with a centerstand did not allow the rear wheel to touch the ground. I supported the engine case, and once a week, hopped on for 15min or so....therapy!! Did this for the 3yrs I had it.
I hate winterizing...and I need the therapy.

darthrider · Post by **darthrider** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:27 am

Frank nailed it on all counts. I would just emphasize the importance of keeping the tank full. Otherwise you risk forming condensation inside the tank with temp changes. Ask any pilot about this.

Boxermania's comment about removing the plugs is just to eliminate the compression so it's is easy for the starter to turn over the cold, stiff engine. This will circulate oil throughout the system and build some oil pressure to minimize initial friction during the "cold start". But...on many-most-all? bikes with electronic ignition it will harm or kill the ignition system to crank the motor with no spark occuring at the plugs. If you do this, put the plugs back into the spark plug caps (wires) and ground the body of the plug to bare metal on the engine or chassis. This may not be easy to do since pretty much everything is powdercoated on the 50Rs. This is very important.

And whatever you do, DON'T go out and start the bike and "let 'er run a while" to excercise it, warm it, charge the battery, slosh oil around inside, etc. This will do more harm from the cold start and building condensation and acid inside the motor & exhaust system than any help it provides (none).
Just sit on the bike and go VROOM - VROOM!

Or better, go have a couple of shots of Gentleman Jack and practice making babies...

Post by **Deans BMW** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:40 am

Heed carefully what Frank and Darth wrote.

jamming · Post by **jamming** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:57 am

AAAAhhhh...winter, is that what its called? Now that the temps are dropping down to below 100, its starting to get into the nice riding season here in Arizona, Dean in Show Low not withstanding, as he does get winter.
Honestly, I've never winterized a bike. even when I lived in Portland Oregon I rode every day, but Portland hardley ever gets snow, just rain.
We down here in the suncountry will be sure to ride enough for you all in the colder climates and regal you with ride stories

its the least we can do for our friends.
Rog

darthrider · Post by **darthrider** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 10:05 am

Hey Rog...put a sock in it!
You want all the Yankees moving to the Sunbelt?

latakia77 · Post by **latakia77** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 6:42 pm

Biggums, where are you at in Montana?

Don't worry, let me have it for the winter, I'll take care of her!

You can trust me; I'm in the medical field.

2002 Atlanta blue in Billings

Post by **Biff's R** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 7:13 pm

I am usually able to ride through most of the winter(34F and rising), but I still plug the bike into the Battery Tender and leav it plugged in.

I would put stabil into the tank if you know that you are not going to ride, and follow what darth and Frank said.

jamming · Post by **jamming** » Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:14 pm

OOPPSSS sorry Dave, my bad, the last thing we need here is more yankees

Roger

biggums · Post by **biggums** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 6:16 am

Thanks again for the fine recommendations.

Montana (Lewistown) is my summer home so back to So. Cal for the winter. Can't live in a area that I can't ride year round so maybe the R will travel with me not sure. My Street Glide may need the winterization not sure which one yet!

R4R&R · Post by **R4R&R** » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:00 am

Winterization for the R11xx bikes:
Change the antifreeze and rotate the tires. That's all you need to do.

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